Greg Marchand's trip to Italy, in place of his Frenchie To Go, rue du Nil in Paris, has finally begun. Given the sustained pace of the openings, the dishes served there are almost as rehashed as the words to say them.

Less so for the small room where a cheeky mirror on the ceiling reflects the new 1960s glamor of the Frenchie bistronomy. But the food does not disappoint, and the wines are as good as they were in the 1970s and '80s. It's the first time we've been to Italy with Greg Marchand in 15 years, and it's a great start to a new chapter in his career. We're looking forward to seeing what he has in store for us on the rest of the trip. For more information on the trip, visit www.frenchie-to-go.com or go to www.gofundme.com/franchie-in-italy.