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It may not be Thailand, but it's the closest there is: Tel Aviv's good (and hidden) Thai - Walla! Food

2020-08-16T05:19:00.588Z


Long years of continuous Asian falls or just a puzzling price expropriation led us to a tiny alley in the Carmel market, and flew us from there east


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It may not be Thailand, but it's the closest there is: the good (and hidden) Thai of Tel Aviv

Long years of continuous Asian falls or just a puzzling price expropriation led us to a tiny alley in the Carmel market, and flew us from there east

Tags
  • Carmel Market
  • Restaurants
  • Thailand
  • Tel Aviv Jaffa

Yaniv Granot

Sunday, August 16, 2020, 8:00 p.m.

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      Five new places in the Carmel market (Photo: Yael Laor, Reut Sahar, Idan Feinberg)

      In the video: A tour of the new places in the Carmel market

      The best dish on our last visit to Bangkok was eaten (of course) on the penultimate day of the trip, on the third floor (obviously) of a gray commercial center (look surprised) and devoid of a functioning ventilation system or special passion for copyright (shocking). The stand in question was signless (what an amazing twist in the plot) and lacking a functioning social account, but its owner still managed to get out of it plate after plate of what must probably be defined as enchanted Thai alchemy - a sort of ceramic and smoky Asian carbonara. Noodles, meat and egg only, but noodles, meat and egg only that we will never be able to recover again.

      And we tried. We went back there the next day at exactly the same time (properly, the internet mythology around the podium warned of very limited operating times), in an attempt to further fill the exploding suitcase of memories before returning home. It did not help. The food court was active, but the requested stand looked abandoned. The dishes were in place and the wok was on the stove, but the carbonara man was not in sight.

      Worried, we bought a ticket to another, nearby and active stall, and ate the second best dish on our last visit to Bangkok. Both, by the way, cost less than 5 shekels.

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      An unclear wonder, and that's part of the magic. "Mrs. Kotiyo" in the Carmel Market (Photo: Yaniv Granot)

      If you were to tear the street restaurant from the alley where it was located about a year ago in the Carmel market, and move it as it is to one of Bangkok's markets, you would not need a budget that is too large and a palate adjustment.

      This experience, exciting and fascinating and unique as it may be (and it is not), is outlined here for only two reasons: The first is the recognition that Thailand has moved so far away from us in recent months that an orderly system of modern cave painters is needed to pass on experiences and colors Yes he will be able to get back to her. The second is that at the end of every trip to Thailand an Israeli sits with a craving for the best street food in the world, and he is always-always disappointed. The taste is far away, the workmanship fails, the price is exorbitant. There are those who manage to hurt something (and "compensate" in another parameter), but most of them fall for everyone.

      Up to now.

      The wonder that he is "Mrs. Kotiyo" is not clear to me to the end, and that too is part of the magic. If you were to tear the street restaurant out of the alley where it was located about a year ago in the Carmel market, and move it as it is to one of Bangkok's markets, you would not need a budget that is too large and a palate adjustment. The design is as correct as you can call a "design" for a rough and unpretentious market space, the exact atmosphere is an exact reminder of the huge PR budgets that are often spilled here in vain, and the menu is Thailand, but a little different from what we are used to here. Thai, for example. There is soup, but there are no spring rolls. There is a taste, but there is no trace of sweet chili or any other Middle Eastern expropriation of the favorite flavor fan. And cut.You will need them.

      Born in the 2020 Corona cycle

      Five new places in the Carmel market

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      What took you so long? "Mrs. Kotiyo" in the Carmel Market (Photo: Reut Sahar)

      It was, without beautification and without fuss, the best papaya salad we ate in the country, and God forbid we tried them all

      We took a papaya salad (NIS 29), "kotiyo-gai" (rice noodles, chicken dumplings, chicken stock and 8 other ingredients that can be called "Where's my passport?", NIS 48) and also "Ba-mi-gai" (wheat noodles) , The same dumplings, and also a kind of chicken one-ton, a drier axis and only six other ingredients, unfortunately, NIS 54). We asked for less spicy. Even less. a little less. More. A little less. And we finally compromised on the pressure of friends' amazed eyes beyond the showcase. Less than that, they will broadcast, which is a dessert.

      The result was three respectable bowls in size and tempting in their earth color palette. The salad was everything that was supposed to be a salad that was crushed with the order - crispy and squeaky, kicking and aggressive, tingling and dripping juicy with freedom. It was, without beautification and without fuss, the best papaya salad we ate in the country, and God forbid we tried them all. It was, without calculation and without diminishing, also the cheapest of them all, and God knows we fell victim to longing more than once, and received in return small and miserable saucers with a cheeky price tag.

      The protein noodle dishes did exactly the same job - rich in sauce, swimming in soup stock, and surprising every bite or two with a different flavor. One spoon with liquid and noodles, a second spoon with a piece of dumpling or wonton and some sprouts, and a third spoon that stops everything and asks why it took so long to get this food here?

      One note that cannot be avoided: it is pungent. Sometimes spicy is tolerable, sometimes too spicy, and quite often it is also dragged into the masochistic food challenge districts that are sometimes seen online. Admittedly, I'm not into spiciness and incendiary matters anyway, but it sometimes felt a little too much.

      It must be written without embarrassment and without shame:

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      Five minutes into our experience at "Mrs. Kotiyo", one of the diligent cleaning workers of the Carmel Market passed by, and asked to gather inside as the washing machine passed and put a wet cover on the business day at the complex. It was so unbranded, and light years away from any Tel Aviv "restaurant" experience we've had in recent years, that we have no choice but to smile with relief.

      A few minutes later, as the alley was cleared to everyone's satisfaction, the lady invaded again and spread her legs uninterrupted. It was neither clean nor sterile, not licked or flattering, but it was delicious. When we return here tomorrow, hopefully, they will stay in the same place.

      "Mrs. Kotiyo", Yom Tov 1, Tel Aviv-Yafo

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        Source: walla

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