“It must have been a glitzy year, it was a tedious year.
»The play on words is unleashed in a burst of laughter by Eric Trochon.
"A nervous laugh," says the chef of the Solstice in Paris.
A year ago, the Michelin Guide awarded him a first star for his restaurant.
And while critics are preparing to unveil the new batch of their Red Guide this Monday, the atmosphere is now very different on rue Claude-Bernard, in the 5th arrondissement.
“Having a star is every cook's dream,” admits the 57-year-old.
Even if we do not work for this, it is recognition of the work accomplished by the entire team.
»And the assurance of a well-filled reservation book.
"We have, almost overnight, quadrupled the number of covers made each day," recalls Eric Trochon.
READ ALSO>
Take-out, caterer ... how the Covid-19 forced restaurant owners to reinvent themselves
“There are around 16,000 establishments in Paris alone.
There are 628 Michelin-starred restaurants throughout France.
All of a sudden, we come out of anonymity, ”Marc Favier analyzes.
The chef of Marcore (Paris IIe) also received his first macaroon in 2020. And he, too, was quickly disillusioned.
After a good start to the year thanks to this distinction, he had to close the doors of his establishment on March 15, like all the others, confinement requires.
"It was then a mixed feeling, after a difficult year of opening during which we had to find our marks," recalls the 38-year-old.
"The first confinement, we tried to recover, to take advantage, to do what we had not had time until then in our restaurant", abounds Eric Trochon.
Chef Marc Favier in his restaurant, Marcore, in July 2019. AFP / Martin Bureau
But very quickly, reality catches up with him.
It is financial, of course.
To open the Marcore, Marc Favier invested one million euros in mid-2019.
Eric Trochon, 400,000 euros, on the same date.
Their “businesses” being recent, the State granted them a monthly aid of 10,000 euros.
"Fortunately she exists.
But one way or another, we will have to reimburse it, ”emphasizes Marc Favier.
Some may find the sum significant.
But the fixed costs of such places are too.
There are rents - 5,000 euros per month for the Marcore for example - to be honored, the loan to be repaid, social protection and paid vacations for employees to be paid, even if they are on short-time working ...
Morning essentials newsletter
A tour of the news to start the day
Subscribe to the newsletterAll newsletters
So, projects were postponed until Greek calendars.
For a third young star, who preferred to remain anonymous because more in difficulty than his colleagues, these are canceled hires, the purchase of dishes postponed ...
"I went back to shopping"
The reopening, in June 2020, is then done on tiptoe.
Due to sanitary measures, the number of places is limited in the establishments, the restaurants do not run with a full team.
"So we review our menus, we do less things", regrets Eric Trochon.
Who found a new impetus there.
“I went back to shopping, focusing on even fewer dishes.
It was like a liberation.
"
VIDEO. Restaurants closed: "I can still last a month and a half, no more"
The months pass, a new confinement falls.
“Psychologically and physically, this time it's very hard to live with,” continues the latter.
Many therefore decide to take charge.
The take-away fashion is spreading, even for the star-studded.
For different reasons.
“It doesn't bring me anything.
It is above all a matter of keeping the link with our customers, explains Marc Favier.
You have to show that you stay alive.
"
For the leader of the Solstice, “it was more an opportunity to complete a project that I had had from the start.
I created a specific site.
And it is already working very well.
"
A huge need for human contact
The relationship with the customer is however modified because of dematerialized.
We no longer judge our dishes by empty plates or smiles, but by repeated purchases.
"That's not why I do this job," regrets the third restaurateur.
A relationship that could be disrupted on a more continuous basis, believe the professionals.
“There will be a recovery in hand of the service, estimates Eric Trochon.
Going to a restaurant will once again become a real moment of sharing, which customers will want to experience fully.
Because what seemed natural yesterday is no longer so today.
"
The Michelin Guide delivers its verdict
The Michelin Guide will unveil this Monday, from the Eiffel Tower, the new French stars.
A digital voice, however, given the health measures.
The ceremony, scheduled for noon, will be broadcast on YouTube, Instagram and Facebook.
One might be surprised that a new red Guide cuvée has been concocted, even though establishments have only welcomed their customers for a few months in 2020. “At a time when restaurants are still closed, it is our responsibility to continue to promote them and to help ensure that they are not forgotten, ”retorts the management.
But, always eager to keep its trade secrets, she just indicates that she had to show great "agility" to deploy her criticism to the maximum during the rare opening periods. To, despite everything, deliver a new Guide with some surprises?
