In creating the new high fashion collection for Spring/Summer 2024, which was paraded in Paris in front of a parade of stars - from Zendaya to Reese Witherspoon, from Adèle Exarchopolous to Hyekyo Song up to Heart Evangelista - the creative director of the Couture lines and Womenswear by Fendi, says he looked to his predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, who directed the Roman fashion house for 54 years, setting the record for the longest collaboration in the world of fashion between a designer and a company.
"I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld's futurism with Fendi" explains the British designer, who is 50 years old and has been at the helm of Fendi's women's line and haute couture for three years, after having designed the men's line for Vuitton and for Dior.
"In the collection - specifies the designer - there is a humanism at the center of this future; there is the body, the silhouette within the silhouette, the person and the manual work of couture. The collection concerns structure and decoration, where the two become indivisible. I wanted an idea of precision and emotion at the same time."
The collection, as its creator intends, "avoids custom and embraces pragmatism".
It wants to show the skills of the artisans of the Fendi ateliers: from the embroiderers to the tailors, from the pattern makers to the leather workers, up to the furriers.
Kim Jones moves from the simplicity of geometry, to the primordial attraction of the crocodile, a "human futurism" travels through the collection, fusing constants of the past to create present and future.
Starting from a new "Box" silhouette and ending with the same one, the precise geometric cut of the flou motif creates new volumes, with light fabrics such as silk gazar.
While the suit follows the shape of the female body through rigorous cuts, ergonomically embracing the wearer in traditionally masculine tailored fabrics such as super kid mohair.
Crafted from the finest cashmere and vicuna yarns, the raised-rib knit dresses wrap elegantly with knotted "Shibari" harnesses integral to the silhouette.
The soft crocodile runs through the entire collection, embracing clothing and accessories and exerting an instinctive design.
Each approach optimizes the lightness, sinuosity and movement gathered from the discipline of dance.
A new form of feather-like fringe creates the fur coats of the future, contrasting with real crocodile trench coats.
The bandeau micro-tops, elegantly knotted on the shoulders, contrast with the sinuous silver midi skirts.
Precious accessories.
Some models wear "Singular Vision" glasses, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, artistic director of the Fendi jewelry store, who created the frames of the custom-made glasses in 18k white gold and white diamonds through facial scans.
Also on the platform are the new custom-made Baguette bags created by Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of the Accessories and Men's lines.
Echoing the materials of the clothing, they are in soft crocodile lined in mink, or are decorated with fringes.
Also on show are the Fendi Gems Baguette bags, and a mini Baguette bag in 18k white gold with a buckle studded with white diamonds and platinum leaf applied to the crocodile.
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