As of: March 23, 2024, 5:11 a.m
By: Marcus Giebel
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Suffers from global warming: According to Stiftung Warentest, the average quality of olive oil is decreasing.
© IMAGO / Panthermedia
Olive oils are becoming significantly more expensive.
At the same time, the average quality is decreasing, as Stiftung Warentest shows.
This is also due to climate change.
Berlin – This olive oil test is probably not at all to the taste of the manufacturers.
Stiftung Warentest looked at 23 products and tested them for, among other things, chemical quality, harmful substances and ease of use of the packaging.
With an alarming result.
Olive oil in the test: Stiftung Warentest complains about a lower average quality
Accordingly, only four olive oils performed well.
In contrast, six failed, and many more offered mediocre results.
In the test two years ago, more than two thirds were rated as good.
This time, frying olive oils also came under scrutiny for the first time, which provided a ray of hope.
What is particularly noticeable is the significantly lower average quality compared to previous studies, the testers emphasize.
They attribute this to climate change.
Global warming, including droughts and heat in the Mediterranean countries where olives are native, would leave its mark.
Video: Supermarket prices rise drastically - Spanish olive oil is sold on the black market
Olive oils perform worse in the test: olives have to be picked earlier due to climate change
The consequences: “Products of the highest quality class, extra virgin, often taste rancid or pungent, and the chemical quality is also weaker than usual.” The “test” issue (issue 04/2024) explains that the rancid notes are due to oxygen contact , for example on damaged raw materials such as damaged olives.
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The sharp and muddy notes, on the other hand, are typical of fruits that have been stored too warm for too long before pressing and have already fermented.
The reasons for this could be that in some places olives are ripe earlier than usual and would have to be picked in warmer months instead of the usual autumn.
“Poor olive harvests could increase in the climate crisis, the proportion of high-quality oils could decrease and more oil could be used as frying oil,” says Jochen Wettach, project manager for the olive oil test, looking ahead.
Stiftung Warentest: The reviews of virgin olive oils at a glance
product |
Overall grade |
approximate price per liter |
|---|---|---|
Cosmo di Russo Caieta Olio extra virgin olive oil |
1.7 |
46 euros |
Rapunzel Crete extra virgin olive oil (organic) |
2.1 |
34 euros |
Rewe Yes extra virgin olive oil |
2.6 |
10.70 euros |
Aldi Gut Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Organic) |
2.7 |
12 euros |
Aldi Cantinelle Extra Virgin Olive Oil |
2.8 |
10.70 euros |
Bertolli Originals Extra Virgin Olive Oil |
2.8 |
19.80 euros |
Edeka Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Organic) |
2.8 |
12 euros |
Lidl Primadonna Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Organic) |
2.8 |
12 euros |
Lidl Primadonna extra virgin olive oil |
3.0 |
10.70 euros |
Netto Marken-Discount Vegola extra virgin olive oil |
3.0 |
10.70 euros |
Gaea Classic Authentic Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil |
3.1 |
19 euros |
dmBio extra virgin olive oil (organic) |
3.3 |
7.95 euros |
Filippo Berio Classico Extra Virgin Olive Oil |
3.7 |
15 euro |
Bio Planete olive oil extra mild (organic) |
5.0 |
14 euros |
Edeka Good & Cheap extra virgin olive oil |
5.0 |
10.70 euros |
Fiore extra virgin olive oil |
5.0 |
12 euros |
Kaufland K-Bio extra virgin olive oil (organic) |
5.0 |
12 euros |
Kaufland K-Classic extra virgin olive oil |
5.0 |
10.70 euros |
La Espanola Extra Virgin Olive Oil |
5.0 |
19.50 euros |
Olive oil at Stiftung Warentest: Only two native oils perform well
The test winner among the virgin olive oils is Cosmo di Russo Caieta Olio extra virgin di oliva from Italy, which earned a grade of 1.7.
Here the price per liter is 46 euros.
Otherwise, only Rapunzel Crete extra virgin olive oil (organic) landed in the good range with a 2.1.
One liter costs 34 euros.
According to Stiftung Warentest, these two products are completely balanced, clearly bitter and spicy.
This is how gourmets would appreciate an olive oil.
When it comes to frying olive oils, two of which performed well and two of which performed satisfactorily, Alnatura frying olive oil (organic) was at the top with a score of 2.3.
The price per liter is 18.70 euros.
Byodo Brat-Olive Mediterran scored 2.5 and costs 20 euros per liter.
Stiftung Warentest: The reviews of frying olive oils at a glance
product |
Overall grade |
approximate price per liter |
|---|---|---|
Alnatura frying olive oil (organic) |
2.3 |
18.70 euros |
Byodo Brat-Olive Mediterranean (Organic) |
2.5 |
20 Euros |
Rewe Best choice olive oil frying oil for frying and grilling |
3.1 |
12 euros |
Bertolli frying olive oil |
3.3 |
16.90 euros |
Olive oil is becoming more expensive: prices have doubled in some cases since October 2022
Speaking of prices: They have increased significantly and have almost doubled since the previous test in October 2022.
At that time they were still 5.75 to 36 euros per liter. Now in a comparable test field they are 10.70 to 46 euros.
After all, there are also acceptable oils in the class up to twelve euros per liter, emphasizes Stiftung Warentest.
In addition to generally increased costs, poor olive harvests and the resulting decline in olive oil production in the EU are the main reasons for the increased prices.
These increased significantly more than for other vegetable oils, as can be seen from the consumer price index.
The Federal Statistical Office found a price increase of 50.8 percent compared to the previous year, the price of cooking oils fell by 0.9 percent in the same period, and sunflower oil, rapeseed oil and the like even became 21 percent cheaper.
Olive oil is healthy: Oleic acid can help reduce LDL cholesterol in the blood
Nevertheless, there are good arguments for olive oil.
Your own health, for example.
Stiftung Warentest praises olive oil as the oil with the most favorable nutritional properties of all.
This is primarily due to oleic acid, of which olive oil consists of 70 percent.
This monounsaturated fatty acid helps lower unwanted LDL cholesterol in the blood.
In addition, the polyphenols would also have beneficial effects on blood lipids.
Instead of olive oil, there are also alternatives for refining salads or for frying.
You can also make smoked olive oil yourself.
It's easy to make mistakes when storing.
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