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Yeu, the haughty hawk

2020-06-07T12:47:43.541Z


TRAVEL GUIDE - Anchored in the Atlantic, without a bridge connecting it to the mainland, which allowed it to be drastically confined, the Isle of Yeu is lived between ocean and heath. From the spray of the wild coast to its fragile dunes on the coast facing the continent, everything you need to know before stopping there.


Unconfined and ready for summer

This small pebble of 24 square kilometers, 9.5 km by 3.5 km, resembling, from the sky, a big hedgehog, involuntarily played the stars during the Covid-19 crisis. Its strict rules prohibiting non-permanent residents from disembarking there and islanders from traveling more than 300 m from their home, questioned television channels. However, the island is once again free to live and is preparing itself in style for the summer season.

A protected coastline

In line with the family tradition of La Bergerie breeding, Emilie raises her sheep on the pastures of Ker Poiraud. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

Never has the dune been so flowered. Asphodeles, gorse, endemic orchids, sea bass, live together in harmony. The beaches have never been clad in such dense sand. The sheep of Emilie Sage, the star shepherdess, have never had enough of such a fatty grass. If the island retains its marine and terrestrial flora and fauna, it is thanks to two factors. First of all, a climatic factor: Yeu enjoys rare sunshine, combined with balanced rainfall. As evidenced by its fragrant mimosas, its outbreaks of camellias and oleanders, its olive trees that take root. Also political will protection undertaken in 1983 by the then mayor, Pierre Crochet. The pioneering cocksfoot, triplex and matthiole plants have therefore recolonized the dunes, slightly curbing the nibbling of the ocean.

Story villages

The white chapel of La Meule located in the south of the island, on the wild coast, a rugged coast reminiscent of the Brittany coast. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

A single commune now, Port Joinville, but ten villages with architecture also under control to safeguard their character. White, low houses, wooden shutters, colored. Little plastic, few cement fences, but dry stone walls. A harmony underlined by the exceptional light whether the weather is nice or the sky capsized by clouds. An aesthetic ensemble appealing to painters, throwing on their canvases these houses cannibalized by hollyhocks, bignones, tamarisks, vines, these hollow paths leading to a pocket port like that of the Vieilles or the Portia or the Millstone, the better known, looking like a fjord dominated by its white chapel. Even if in winter many houses which have become secondary remain closed, the Islais cling like barnacles to their rock watching with pride over their heritage.

Hop on your bike!

We put our bike on the beach (here Ker Châlon) for a walk to the water. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

By leaving by bicycle, towards the east of Port Joinville, first reveal the large expanses of eastern sand, such as Ker Châlon, Les Sapins, La Raie Deep, Les Conches, etc. Then, by doubling the point of the Ravens and its mini-cabins, you are in awe of a succession of intimate coves framed by rocks Les Tchinettes, les Soux, La Raie de la Vache, les Sables Rouis. When you go beyond Pointe du But, change of scenery. The long swell and its jumble of waves impose thunderous. We take refuge at Anse des Broches or at Petit Poiry, which takes on the appearance of a lagoon with spicy scents of immortelles growing just above the ground. Six hours is enough to complete the tour of the island and locate the 33 beaches with the certainty of always finding one sheltered from the wind.

Bike rental companies line up side by side on the platform. They charge the same, very high prices. In summer it is better to reserve a 2 wheeler. In season, buses serve the four cardinal points of the island. Tickets can be purchased at the tourist office.

Epicure in his garden

Port Joinville in the early morning. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

Islais as summer visitors, live and receive sheltered from the limed walls, in a maze of courtyards, gardens, unsuspected alleys. They buy, directly and around 11 am on the quay, lobsters, monkfish, rays, red mullet or crabs for two, three fishermen returning from their night at sea. They get their supplies in the morning from the markets of Port Joinville and Saint Savior, organic vegetables grown on the island, smoked tuna, canned fish (Saveurs Islaises), lamb from the island, traditional prune pie. etc.

Unmissable address of the island, La Réserve du Bouchon. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

Good food is rare. At the Port: the best, the decoration redone a week before confinement, Les Bafouettes, has a mini-terrace (without view). To taste seafood at sunset, on a rooftop, head to La Réserve du Bouchon. And, to savor the best patties, mussels and patagos, we ping to the Snack Martin near the press house. No reservations, first come, first served.

Icelandic nights, cuddly nights

There are few hotels on the island, but many houses and guesthouses are available. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

Good news, Le Caillou Blanc , finally a beautiful 4-star hotel, opens in July with a heated swimming pool, a revolution, and above all a magnificent sea view, the only one for a hotel. Just outside Port Joinville, its large garden also overlooks the ocean, as do its 16 rooms, including a suite with jacuzzi, from € 139 in summer, € 79 in low season. Phone. : 02 51 37 01 12, contact@hotelcailloublanc.com.

Otherwise, the hotel fleet is very poor. Nice little hotel, the Escale , two stars, at the exit of the port, with a garden -, 29 cute rooms, adorable service, from 60 €, yeu-escale.fr.

On the Tourist Office website, download the brochure of the many houses and guesthouses available. Airbnb also lists 65 offers, including some very pretty properties suitable for “clans” of friends or families. Coup de Coeur aux Sapins, for Xavier's, beautiful decoration, large garden, and exceptional services. 8 rooms, 16 beds.

The essentials of the Isle of Yeu

Classified as a historic monument since 1900, the Old Castle was built in the 14th century. Hergé would have been inspired by this fortified castle to design that of L'Île Noire . Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

The Romanesque church of Saint Sauveur , listed as a Historic Monument since 1906. Its recent restoration has revealed magnificent 12th century frescoes.

La Fabrique  : cooperative of 20 Icelandic creators, some of great talents, Martine Hop La, creation on linen, leather, wool, Mariane Niney, ceramist, Marie Houset, painter, Dominique de La Voilerie, bags, covers in tarpaulin. Rue des Usines, lafabriqueyeu.com.

The Escadrille bar on Quai Carnot. Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

L'Escadrille  : to echo an eclectic repertoire according to orchestras and artists, while savoring Ti punches and tight margaritas. www.lescadrille.net

La Ferme de Emilie  : for tea, buy clothes knitted by Islaises with wool from Emilie's sheep, follow the transhumance on the side of the Old Castle, and on Friday evening stock up at the Farmer's market, bringing together all the organic producers of the island. 55, Chemin de la Mass. lafermedemilie.fr.

Le Ciné Islais , managed by the town hall, previews and new films. Phone. : 02 51 58 38 91, liledyeu.com.

Connect the island of Yeu

The port of Vieilles, nicknamed the "smallest port in France". Anne Marie Cattelain Le Dû / Le Figaro

BY BOAT
The Yeu-Continent Company (that of the region) which passes throughout the year, except on days of very heavy storms. Departure from Fromentine. Mandatory reservation. To get your car, you have to do it months in advance. Reduced number of seats and passages due to the Covid-19. Situation that will continue this summer. Phone. : 02 51 49 59 69. www.yeu-continent.fr

The Compagnie Vendéenne , (private) which only serves the island from April to November, departures from Fromentine, Noirmoutier and Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie. Phone. : 02 51 60 14 60. www.compagnie-vendeenne.com

BY HELICOPTER

Oya Hélico , all year round, from Fromentine, the heliport is accessible by car (parking) and by bus from Nantes. Phone. : 02 51 59 22 22. From 59 euros per adult and per crossing. www.oya-helico.fr.

Or by private plane , via the aerodrome where you can land. The aerodrome also puts in contact with approved pilots. Phone. : 02 51 58 38 22.

MORE INFO

Tourist office  : ile-yeu.fr, tel. : 02 51 58 32 58, with seagulls and gulls in the background to be in the mood.

Source: lefigaro

All news articles on 2020-06-07

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