Sometimes you have to know how to stay in the shade. Located between the Gulf of Ajaccio and that of Porto - two celebrities of the Corsican coast -, the Gulf of Sagone remains little visited. However, there is no shortage of assets with its sublime wild beaches, its green reliefs and its charming villages where it is good to take your time. An excellent island destination at a time of social distancing.
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Feast on nature
Coming from Ajaccio, the first image of the Gulf of Sagone, which arises by surprise after the pass of San Bastiano , is full of promise. There is the Liamone river , which winds up to a wide bay where the sea rushes in bad weather; a cut coast alternating long sandy beaches, areas of impenetrable scrub and rocky coves; and also fierce valleys, which weave their way towards the villages of the hinterland and the heights of the Monte Rotondo massif , forming an impressive natural rampart. The whole constitutes an exceptional example of Mediterranean landscape, miraculously preserved.
Cargèse, the Greek
The Greek church still measures the Roman Catholic and continues to bear witness to the original story of Cargèse. Jean Tiffon
Curious destiny is that of Cargèse , a delicious village set on a large promontory facing the sea and the Gulf of Sagone. Some beautiful neoclassical houses, arranged around a valley invaded by gardens, provide information on the time of construction of the town, at the end of the 18th century. It was the Comte de Marbeuf, a lieutenant-general of Louis XV from Brittany, who ordered the creation of Cargèse after the French took control of Corsica in 1769. He settled here a community of Greek refugees from the Magne region, in the Peloponnese. Today, the Greek church still measures the Roman Catholic and continues to bear witness to this original story. Its rich iconostasis and bluish vaults transport the visitor to a more eastern Mediterranean.
Catalog of beaches
The long Péro beach. Adobe Stock / Martin
Around Cargèse, the beaches follow each other and are not alike. The blond sand of Menasina cove , on the road to Sagone, is bordered by golden rocks. Its calm and clear waters make it an ideal spot for indulging in snorkeling. On the other side of the village, the long Péro beach is closed by the Omigna peninsula , covered with scrub and watched over by a Genoese tower. It is possible to reach the latter by walking for an hour through a fragrant moor, invaded by immortals. Further north, the sublime Chiuni beach presents a raw and wild setting of all beauty. Riders like to cross it in the setting sun, just like lovers.
Vico, Corsican village
Vico has the charm of the hinterland localities with its square shaded by plane trees and its steep alleys. Jean Tiffon
Invisible from the coast and surrounded by peaks, the village of Vico became the beating heart of the region from the Middle Ages. At that time, he gradually supplanted Sagone because of the numerous barbarian attacks targeting the coast, which threatened his population. Today, Vico has the charm of the hinterland localities with its shaded plot of plane trees and its steep alleys. In the afternoon, it is taken from a torpor typical of Corsica from the inside. At the end of the day, it comes alive around its café terraces where you can sip a beer while watching the bowlers. As for the Saint-François convent, which has dominated the village since 1481, it is also a nice walk destination. It is possible to enter in order to glimpse the daily life of the missionaries installed here and even to stay there, the time for a spiritual retreat.
Liamone and Lake Creno
Lake Creno is bordered by Laricio pines, under the shade of which picnic. Adobe Stock / Martin
On leaving Vico in the direction of Murzo , the road passes over the Liamone. Below the bridge, several natural pools allow you to swim in clear, clear water. Ideal for cooling off at the hottest hours or for taking a nap in the shade! Higher up in the valley, above Soccia , a path leads to the superb Creno Lake after a 1h15 walk. Perched on the foothills of Monte Retondo at an altitude of 1,300 m, this lake enjoys a very rich ecosystem. Its banks planted with Laricio pines are ideal for picnics but also for observing nature. The curious will try to spot some specimens of sundew, an endemic carnivorous plant, on the banks.
Muna, ghost village
Built on the mountainside, this hamlet has been abandoned for half a century. Adobe Stock / Alain Crépin
Last step of this discovery of the Gulf of Sagone, the hamlet of Muna was built on the mountainside. Composed of around fifty buildings, it has been abandoned for over fifty years. You have to follow a winding and vertiginous road to reach this little part of the world ... In summer, a handful of inhabitants return to stay there for a few weeks, giving it a semblance of life. The old chapel, poignantly simple, seems to be left to its sad fate. Climbing the stony paths that storm the village, you can easily imagine the rough life of the foresters who lived here until the middle of the 20th century. At least they could enjoy this magnificent and unique landscape at leisure, which can only be admired in Corsica.
Read also: From Penta-di-Casinca to Zonza, the ten most beautiful villages in Corsica
PRACTICAL NOTEBOOK
GO
Several shipping companies (Corsica Ferries, Corsica Linea, La Méridionale) ensure the crossing to Ajaccio from Marseille, Toulon or Nice.
Air France and Air Corsica serve Ajaccio all year round.
Sagone is a 40-minute drive from Ajaccio Airport. It is best to hire a vehicle to explore the area, as public transport is quite limited.
OR SLEEP
Les Lentisques , in Cargèse: a hotel residence away from the hustle and bustle but close to the long Péro beach. Very comfortable modern rooms and pleasant swimming pool. Double room from 80 €.
GOOD TABLES AND OUTSTANDING PRODUCTS
In Merendella, in Soccia: in the upper Liamone valley, a table with a view sublimating the rich local terroir. Mandatory reservation. Phone: 06 45 35 61 53.
Leca grocery store , in Cargèse: a gold mine to find the best gourmet products on the Island of Beauty. Aperitifs and snacks on site.
Pierre Geronimi, in Sagone: the best glacier in Corsica offers delicious sorbets and ice creams here, as well as fresh salads and some inventive dishes.
Le Clos d'Alzeto, in Sari-d'Orcino: this wine estate, whose vines are planted at almost 500 m above sea level, has existed for over 200 years. The house's vintages are mainly from Corsican grape varieties (vermentinu, sciaccarellu and nielucciu) .
ACTIVITIES
The Corsican Ranch. This equestrian center with a ranch in Sagone and another in Cargèse offers superb walks in the maquis or on the beaches of the region.
MORE INFORMATION...
www.ouestcorsica.com, www.visit-corsica.com
