Gluten-free breads? I have never tried any that are worthwhile, I told María Kindelan a celiac friend, naturopath and expert in energy nutrition. "They will surprise you," he replied smiling. Days ago when I was leafing through the recently published book Gluten-Free Homemade Bread (Larousse), I received through his mediation some pieces made by El Espíritu del Bosque, the bakery school where the work had taken place.
I would never have traveled to Robledondo , to the northwest of the Sierra de Madrid, at 1,360 meters, had it not been for those signs that had upset my skepticism. Guided by the navigator, I crossed El Escoria l, left aside the Silla de Felipe II and after crowning the Puerto de la Cruz Verde, I took the M-535 district. Right at a bend was my destination, a rural house, half hidden in full forest, surrounded by oaks, cypresses and firs. On the inner path, a spring and a century-old cedar. The place, magical in appearance, transmitted positive energies.
Juan Carlos Menéndez , baker, was waiting for me ; his wife Pamela Picatoste , interior designer , and María Kindelán , responsible for the meeting. The midday light filtered by the huge grove was going to accompany us in that cabin hidden behind the windows. I was intrigued by Méndez's didactic method, capable of having successfully instructed more than 40 construction workers from all over Spain for 15 years and having trained more than 8,500 students from 20 countries.
What has it innovated in? “I have not invented anything, I have simply adapted to the gluten-free bakery the steps that are followed in the best artisan bakery . Is there any reason to elaborate them differently? When I started in this world, I was surprised by certain recommendations. Kneading is unnecessary , they told me. It is not necessary to knead because you do not have to develop gluten. Huge mistake. The kneading aerates the dough, oxygenates it and favors the development of alveolate and yeast. Aromas and nuances increase. As important as slow fermentations. Kneading was the first item I introduced to gluten-free bakery. ”
"Don't forget the Psyllium ", intervened María Kindelán addressing Menéndez .
Psyllium?
“I needed an ingredient that would retain water, just what our flours didn't do. My work turned upside down when I discovered this seed and fiber capable of absorbing and holding moisture in the right amounts, just as gluteline and gliadin do for gluten. It is an ingredient that was not used in the bakery and is now routine. It allowed me to work the doughs in a different way, just like the best artisan breads: double fermentations and long standing times. Outcome? More digestive pieces, accentuated flavors and pleasant textures with aromas of cereals. None of the chewy breads to use.
What flours do you use?
For conventional breads the assortment is wide, but limited: wheat, rye, spelled, kamut and a little more. For our gluten-free breads we have a litany of super foods, true nutritional treasures, sorghum, millet, buckwheat, chia, teff, amaranth ... Teff is the new gluten-free supercereal, delicious in iron. The chia has vegetable essential fatty acids.
What does your book contribute?
The possibility of making gluten-free breads with a simple method. Contains recipes to make them at home effortlessly. Although we have trained more than 40 construction workers, in Spain there is a significant deficit. The book was a necessity. We are in an exorbitant growth market niche.
How many celiacs are diagnosed?
About 2% / 3%. Besides, there are groups that by derivation have incipient intolerances. It is estimated that around 10% of the population is indirectly affected.
And bakeries that make gluten-free breads?
Only 1%; the remaining 99% are normal. The offer is absolutely unbalanced.
Where can you buy your breads?
“We are a school, we only teach for training and didactic purposes. We do not have a workshop or sell to anyone. However, there are dozens of establishments that work with our seal. At the end of my book I have reviewed a list of proven bakeries that make gluten-free breads and pastries. Impossible to sell otherwise because of cross contamination. "
Has the pandemic affected you? “We have suspended the activity completely. Our courses are proximity, we need physical proximity to teach how to make and knead our breads. We will return as soon as we are allowed. In July or September, it does not matter. In parallel, we continue to develop the online training courses that are required from all over the world, especially in Latin America . A sign of the times ”.
In 2005, Menéndez worked as a cook, while Pamela designed interiors. Both left the urban environment to reunite with nature. “We needed to develop what we have inside. We discovered this place and our life turned upside down. My brother is celiac, and we perceive the terrible quality of gluten-free breads. No one had worried. It seemed that nothing good could be done, ” Pamela told me .
“As a celiac, quality gluten-free breads seem like real findings to me. Until now it was unthinkable that the restaurants had any notable, "added Maria Kindelán.
I started to say goodbye while Menéndez and Kindelán in full fervor panarra knead a piece with buckwheat, sorghum, tef, quinoa and a little corn starch, to lighten it. “It contains rice sourdough and has been fermenting for six hours. Immediately I will incorporate xanthan, hydrocolloid that will give me the structure I need. Then we will carry out a second fermentation, until the eight hours are up. Quality bread and time are inextricably linked. ”
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