Between the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel and Cape Fréhel, the Emerald Coast, one of the jewels of northern Brittany, stretches over forty kilometers. Romantic beaches, magical panoramas and chic seaside resorts follow one another at a dizzying pace, against a backdrop of crystal clear water.
If Saint-Malo the corsair is the essential stopover, this very Belle Époque coast between Ille-et-Vilaine and Côtes-d'Armor holds a thousand surprises. As a couple or as a family, you can fill up with iodine, but also with architectural, historical and gastronomic wonders.
Read also: Brittany and its islands: our favorite summer destinations
Cancale and the surroundings of Pointe du Grouin
Pointe du Grouin, northernmost part of Cancale. It offers an exceptional view over the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel or the coastline of the Emerald Coast. daliu - stock.adobe.com
The charming little port of Cancale (Ille-et-Vilaine), with granite fishermen's houses glued to each other, is one of the highlights of French oyster farming: you can buy your famous Belon with a nutty flavor directly from producers installed at the end of the Thomas wharf, and they are easily tasted seated above the oyster beds. The village, overhanging, shelters the old residences of notables and shipowners, but also the fabulous spice shop of the cancalais chef Olivier Roellinger (www.epices-roellinger.com) and its pastry shop Grain de Vanille tea , place of Victory.
We put on good shoes to cover the 7 km bordered by pines and gorse that separate Cancale from Pointe du Grouin ; from this rocky projection rising 50 m above the sea, the gaze embraces the horizon, from Cape Fréhel to Granville via Mont-Saint-Michel. The customs trail continues to the tip of the Varde (count 6-7 hours walk from Cancale): Port-Mer , Le Verger , La Guimorais , Les Chevrets , Le Saussaye , La Touesse , are among the most beautiful beaches and coves of this superb stretch of coast - you can of course access it by car.
Our recommendation: the Al Lark association offers an ethical approach to dolphins during 3-hour observation trips. Phone. : 06 78 71 41 09; www.al-lark.org; Port-Mer; htlj March-Nov; adult rate: € 51 / child under 18: € 33 / child under 16: € 20.
Also read: Iodine getaway in six stages from Mont-Saint-Michel to Granville
Saint Malo
Aerial view of the corsair city. To the left, the magnificent Sillon beach, 3 km long. antoine2k - stock.adobe.com
The fame of the corsair city of Ille-et-Vilaine and its emblematic fortified ramparts exceeds the hexagonal borders. Strolling through the small winding streets of its intramural, we believe to go back in time, to go back to the time of Surcouf, cod fishermen and the navigator Jacques Cartier, who discovered Canada in 1534. A unique atmosphere, which reaches its high point when you go at low tide to the fort of Petit Bé , one of the four bastions built on the nearby islets to protect this prosperous port from English invasions in the 18th century.
To take the measure of this astonishing site of Saint-Malo, we walk on the ramparts from the Saint-Vincent gate to the Saint-Thomas gate. The Porte des Bés gives access to the delicious Bon Secours beach and its magnificent seawater swimming pool, built in the 1930s. Facing it, the island of Grand Bé - also accessible at low tide - is the last remains of the Malouin writer François-René de Chateaubriand, buried upright so that he can watch the sea forever ... As well as the dazzling beach of Sillon , 3 km long, which stretches at its feet.
Our recommendation: don't miss the Saint-Servan district , with the iconic Solidor fortified tower, and its Bas-Sablons marina, where it is good to have a drink at sunset.
To read also: Weekend in Saint-Malo, for the charm and the softness of the sea air
Dinard
The seawater pool at Porte d'Émeraude, near the tip of Moulinet. Overhanging, Belle Époque villas which also make Dinard's reputation. Florence Piot
A refined holiday resort since the 19th century, fond of the English and crowned heads, the “Nice of the North” instantly seduces with its Belle Époque villas and its iconic Écluse beach , celebrated by filmmaker Eric Rohmer in Conte d'été .
Wandering from one district to another of Dinard, from the Pointe de la Malouine to the Pointe du Moulinet , you think you are in Pornichet or Biarritz, plunging into the past at every street corner. The seven walking tours offered by the city of Ille-et-Vilaine (itineraries from 30 minutes to 1 hour) also allow you to discover some of these 407 superb residences with exuberant architecture. The city also has a large number of artist galleries, the doors of which must absolutely be opened. If parasols and canoeists are no longer appropriate, we cannot resist the urge to make ourselves elegant to stroll along the Clair-de-Lune promenade at sunset , among exotic flowers and palm trees. The next day, we feast on a fantastic raspberry and hibiscus ice cream bought from Vent de Vanille (3 bis, boulevard du président Wilson) before setting down on the beaches of the Priory or Saint-Enogat .
Our recommendation: The Dinard British Film Festival (www.dinardfilmfestival.fr) is an annual event that is worth visiting. The 2020 edition is confirmed: it will be held from September 30 to October 4.
Read also: Tales and reefs: discovering the treasures of Breton heritage
From Saint-Briac to Cap Fréhel
Setting sun on Cape Fréhel and its lighthouse. A very (too) popular natural site: it is the second most visited in Brittany, after the Pointe du Raz. Erwan Le Roux
Dinard, Saint-Lunaire and Saint-Briac-sur-Mer form the "chic" or "people" trio of the Emerald Coast. In Saint-Briac, mansions of character have become the discreet hideout of celebrities or captains of industry. But the village of 2000 souls is particularly attractive for its 11 little-visited beaches: Port Hue , Grande Salinette and Petite Salinette are preferred by families, who also frequent the Art Deco club house at Dinard Golf, a magnificent 18-hole golf course built there over 120 years. After Lancieux Bay , Saint-Jacut-de-la-Mer is the ideal starting point for a hike at low tide on the idyllic island of Ebihens.
In Saint-Cast-le-Guildo , you switch to Côtes-d'Armor and bask on the Grande Plage . Then we head for Fort La Latte , proudly erected on its rocky point; erected in the 14th century, it served as the setting for the Viking film with Kirk Douglas. After an hour of walking on the coastal path, among the heather, here are the majestic pink sandstone cliffs of Cape Fréhel , dominating the English Channel from their 60 m height. You can see there as far as the Channel Islands, and the sea birds' ballet makes you dizzy; this magnificent mineral universe is the most visited Breton natural site after the Pointe du Raz .
Our recommendation: in Saint-Briac, Surf Harmony offers on the long and beautiful Longchamp beach, discovery or advanced surfing sessions, courses, and rental of surfing, stand-up paddle, bodyboard (www.surfharmony.com; tel: 06 16 13 48 08; 1 session 40 €, surf rental 1h30, 10 €).
Read also: Brittany, the other country of surfing: our best spots
Address book on the Coast É Emerald
WHERE TO SLEEP AT CANCALE, DINARD AND SAINT-BRIAC?
In Cancale In
addition to the Château Richeux and the attractive Ferme du Vent, Olivier Roellinger has two other Cancal hideouts: the Gîtes Marin and the Rimains . From 195 € per night.
Petit Hotel "Les Rimains" and Gites Marin, 62 Rue des Rimains, 35260 Cancale. Phone. : 02 99 89 64 76.
In Dinard
The inevitable 5-star Castelbrac, installed in the old marine research station managed by Captain Charcot, is the flagship of the local hotel industry, from € 270 per night.
Castelbrac Hotel, 17 Avenue George V, 35800 Dinard. Phone. : 02 99 80 30 00.
In Saint-Briac-sur-Mer
Le Nessay, an incredible castle from 1882 enthroned on a peninsula, superbly renovated in 2019, with a wonderful terrace overlooking the beach, is the new address that is causing a stir. From 149 € per night.
Hôtel Le Nessay, boulevard du Bechay, BP 10, 35800 Saint-Briac-sur-Mer. Phone. : 02 99 210 210.
Read also: Our most beautiful guesthouses 2020 in the North West and the Center
GOOD TABLES
In Saint-Malo
Chez Texture , a refined neo-bistro with an Asian influence that likes to work with line fish, scallops, tongue or veal kidneys.
Texture restaurant, 8 rue des Cordiers, 35400 Saint-Malo. Phone. : 02 99 48 10 00.
In Dinard
L'escale à Corto - Restaurant des Marins smells of sea spray, with its langoustines braised in champagne, or its sea bass fillet in red butter.
12 BC George V, 35800 Dinard. Phone. : 02 99 46 78 57.
In Saint-Briac
Aux Deux Sardines, a gourmet and cozy haunt, where creative slow food is king
Les Deux Sardines, 2, boulevard de la Houle, 35800 Saint-Briac-sur-Mer. Phone. : 09 80 83 44 04.