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Jaffa dishes | Israel today

2020-07-10T00:52:34.015Z


| You sat downIn the coffee roasting smoke, the Khoni family sells special spices from Nablus and Syria and delicate Arrazak cookies as a lace • Not far from them, Ahmed Zinab and Salah Kurdi make crispy and crazy nappa • Jaffa, flavors for her character You can't stop eating. Iman's Barazak from "Coffee and Spices Tiran, Honi and Sons" Photo:  Itiel Zion On Yaffa Street in Jaffa there is a small shop with...


In the coffee roasting smoke, the Khoni family sells special spices from Nablus and Syria and delicate Arrazak cookies as a lace • Not far from them, Ahmed Zinab and Salah Kurdi make crispy and crazy nappa • Jaffa, flavors for her character

  • You can't stop eating. Iman's Barazak from "Coffee and Spices Tiran, Honi and Sons"

    Photo: 

    Itiel Zion

On Yaffa Street in Jaffa there is a small shop with a big sign: "Coffee and spices Tiran, Honi and Sons". Beginning in the 1950s, when two immigrants from Turkey opened a small roasting house, they called it "Tiran" for the glory of the IDF's achievements on the Egyptian front. The roasting machine was ordered in Mr. Shlomo Solomonov's workshop on Yehuda Margosa Street in the city. But they could not compete in the market, including “Elite.” Debts grew and they had to hand over the store to the Bakr brothers, coffee importers at that time.

The Bakr brothers, who learned the difference between retail and import trade, were also unhappy, and in the 1980s Muhammad Khuni, a fired Amidar contractor, bought the store at a bargain price. Khoni started making spice blends for all the city pots. Those planted in it from generations of generations and those brought by the new immigrants. Production grew, until it became a large factory on the outskirts of Nablus.

***

In this small shop, which today runs it and the factory in Nablus, Ramsey, you can find beauty of spices and mini syrup, tahini and a delectable treat from Nablus. Ramsey says they are made in Syria and only imported through it. Urges shoppers who stand in line who will not believe everything they are told in the news, "Israelis and Turks are doing full business."

There are also plant species and seeds for the blessing and the removal of the evil eye, and with small, delicate claws baked in Nablus, and salted cookies, and sugar-dusted roasts, and the like. And there is one of Jaffa's most worthy secrets - the brazak, the sweet, lace-thin anise cookies you can't stop eating.

These are baked by Iman, Ramsey's wife and Muhammad's mother, whom everyone calls Juanito. 22, who two years ago launched a line of coffee capsules with cardamom for espresso machines. Seeks to match a traditional world with an increase in espresso consumption in the sector and go about it properly. If cardamom, then be the spice itself and not the extract. In the series he developed, which he secretly produces in a small factory in Lod, there are also coffee capsules with chocolate, hazelnut coffee and two natural espresso blends of different strengths. With great suspicion, I brought my lips and nostrils to Espresso Cardam, a pioneer in his field, who looked Italian but made a Mediterranean film.

For 50 years, the original roasting machine operated until it was tired, and Ramsey contacted the same Solomon Solomonov to build a new one. Now, in a 20-year-old roasting machine, black coffee beans are turning. Iman says there are four families in Jaffa that are used to drinking their coffee. Burnt. The roasting smoke leaves seals on the store's ceiling, opposite which burning tires from recent demonstrations have kissed the road. Juanito says that whoever was born into the Jaffa messes got used to it. Without them being boring. His father, Ramsey, would have given up all of that.

Ramsey was a kid when he started playing soccer in the Jaffa youth, understood the immense power of sports in a city that is free from community centers and frameworks. He says there were players in their team who grew up and down, but when they closed it, three-quarters of them deteriorated into crime. Jaffa's messes will cling to him too.

He remembers coming from the Islamic Movement to donate to the Davis Lewis School in Jaffa. "But I'm one who doesn't know how to sit aside, I saw what went on there and anyway, religion and football don't go together. I quickly revolutionized, changed management and uniform from green to red and called the coach I knew from the years I played, who cycled in all the Jaffa and Assaf 300 schools Students of all religions and colors. We were exemplary of coexistence and in 2007 we brought Chelsea to work with us as part of the peace campaigns she did around the world. "

Those were years when he hardly saw the store, was all football, until he had diabetes, realized that the stress was bad for him and he hadn't seen a ball since. Not even on TV. "Sometimes I have to leave everything and go to live in Greece or some other country where people look into each other's eyes with a little less cargo. I have sugar, I want to live."

***

None of Jaffa's coffee readers saw in her cups the approaching corona, the naked streets touring. Only the redhead, who sees the cards, is willing to swear she told anyone who was willing to hear big, black wings on the way down the world.

Keren is the first to take me to Double Espresso, the cafe that opened seven years ago Ahmad Zinab (45) on the corner where Jerusalem Boulevard kisses Yehuda Maritime Street, one of the busiest places in town. The day begins at sunrise, then the first worshipers arrive from the mosque, and during the day the media and Jaffa, Jews and Arabs take turns.

The place, which operated on Take Evie all day, is now expanding, using the services of Salah Kurdi, who advises on developing the menu.

Kurdish, who became famous in The Chef Games, was born in Ajami 53 years ago, the oldest of nine children, to a family from Kurdistan who arrived in Jaffa 700 years ago. The family's kitchen was shared with Bulgarian immigrants and he was clinging to the brewing aprons, inhaling home-cooked scents, alongside the foreign ones brought by their neighbors; Remember how his grandmother, his beloved, never cooked, just smoked a hookah and gave everyone orders.

At the age of 17, when he started working at Babai's restaurant, then with the fisherman and from there to Tel Aviv restaurants, he was exposed to modern cooking techniques. The two restaurants he had in Jaffa, "Jamila" and "Aleshi," specialized in food seeking to tie modernity with tradition. Just like the games in Kanapa which he incorporates in the revamped Double Espresso menu.

The three main groups are divided into cannabis cakes in evening kitchens. Oil probably comes from pie cakes, pancakes dipped in late-13th-century honey, called kunapa. The first is Kanapa Napa (which means coarse), which is built from the long hairs, Kanapa Nama (which means soft, gentle) is the one installed with shredded or debris kadaiaf noodles, and there is Kanapa (confused) shaker made of blend of the other two.

As with most modern kappa shows in the local kitchen, Kurdish also relies on the sensation, kappa in which thin noodles are topped with butter and brown pan and buy themselves some crispy crunch.

Cinnamon cheese and spinach in a mashed egg and Hollandaise sauce

This is not the easiest recipe in the book, but it is worth the moment when the yolk and hollandaise, the same sour cream sauce, wrap the crispy noodles, accompanying your teeth on their way to the soft cheese. The amount is nice for a 20-18 cm diameter pan.

The ingredients for the sauce:

√ 2 egg yolks

√ 1/2 tablespoon cold water

√ 75 grams of melted butter (possible in micro or frying pan on small heat)

√ 2 teaspoons lemon juice

√ 1 tablespoon white wine

√ 2 tablespoons of milk (if needed)

√ Salt and black pepper

Lacanapa:

√ 1/2 thin chopped small onion head

√ 1 finely chopped garlic tooth

√ 1/2 finely chopped fresh hot pepper

√ 3 tablespoons olive oil

√ 300 g Turkish spinach or finely chopped chives (mangold without the white part will work here)

√ 25 grams grated squash

√ 25 grams grated mozzarella cheese

√ 25 grams of crumbled feta cheese

√ 25 grams per stone

√ 1/3 teaspoon mashed nutmeg

√ 2/3 teaspoon salt

√ 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

√ 70g Cadadif Noodles

√ 40 grams of melted butter

For the hidden eggs:

√ 2-1 eggs, you decide how many eggs you have for each kappa

√ 1 tablespoon of white wine vinegar, because the red will color your eggs

Start making the Dutch sauce: In a stainless steel bowl, fry the egg yolks until lightened and place the bowl over a pot of boiling water over medium heat. Thinly melt the melted butter, while stirring constantly. When the sauce starts to thicken and get mayonnaise texture, add the lemon juice and wine. If the texture is too thick, you can add 2 tablespoons of milk. Turn off the fire and remove the bowl from the pot. By the way, spice, season with salt and pepper. Return to the pot, where the boiling water has already calmed down, so that the sauce is kept warm until ready to assemble.

Now prepare the cannabis filling: In the pan heat the olive oil and fry the onion, garlic and hot pepper until softened. Rinse the spinach leaves, strain, but not completely dry. Put in the pan and fry for about 2 minutes, or until the leaves are cooked through. Cool slightly and mix in the cheese with the leaves in the pan. Seasoning, tasting and seasoning facilities.

Now, in the microwave or skillet, melt the butter and pour over the dough hairs. With your fingertips, massage and separate the dough hairs until they are soaked in butter evenly. In a teflon pan, arrange in a single layer the butter-dough-soaked hairs with your fingers. Place over the cheese mixture and the crumbs. Place the pan over medium heat and allow the bottom of the dough to turn golden and cheese to warm and melt. Place a plate or serving dish slightly larger than the pan over the pan - turning the kappa on the plate.

At the same time, fill a pan deep with water, about 5 cm, add the vinegar, bring to a boil and lower the flame, which will not bubble. Break the eggs into a bowl and whisk them in water one at a time. Of the protein. Remove the eggs in a slotted spoon and place on absorbent paper.

Kanapa seafood

The ingredients (for a pan of 20-18 cm diameter):

√ 150 grams of fish fillet for lightning / Dennis / finely chopped ethos

√ 1 finely chopped garlic tooth

√ 1/4 finely chopped white onion

√ 1/2 fresh hot pepper

√ 70g Cadadif Noodles

√ 40 grams of melted butter

√ Salt

√ Pepper

For submission:

√ 1 finely chopped cucumber

√ 2 tablespoons yogurt

√ 10 parsley leaves

√ 10 Ali Nene

√ 10 coriander leaves

√ 1 thin slice radish

√ 1/2 fresh hot pepper, seedless,

Slice thinly

√ Salt

√ Pepper

In a small bowl, mix the chopped fish meat with the garlic, onion and hot pepper, season with salt and pepper, taste and adjust seasoning. In the microwave or skillet, melt the butter and pour over the dough hairs. With your fingertips, massage and separate the dough hairs until they are soaked in butter evenly. In a teflon pan, arrange in a single layer the butter-dough-soaked hairs with your fingers.

Place the fish mixture over, cover the pan, and fry over medium heat for about 7 minutes or until the fish mixture is ready and bottom of the noodles in the golden pan. Place a plate or serving dish over the pan slightly in excess of that of the pan - and flip over.

Mix the cucumber with the yogurt, salt and pepper, place over the brown cannabis and arrange over the leaves, radish and hot pepper. Sprinkle with a little salt and serve immediately.

hillaal1@gmail.com

Source: israelhayom

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