Nerja is a rarity on the Costa del Sol. Much of its town center still resembles the original town that it was. The tourist apartments share space with houses whose owners continue to sweep the street around their doors, where they water geraniums and star in endless chitchat. Many of the new buildings in this city about 60 kilometers from Malaga are built in the folds of the land to go unnoticed; and most with views of the Mediterranean from cliffs that offer turquoise waters. Cosmopolitan and friendly, Nerja offers sun, nature and archaeological heritage. And there is also the famous Chanquete boat, La Dorada 1ª, which is still there, without moving.
9.30 Breakfast with views
Of the top 10 places for breakfast recommended by TripAdvisor, half of them show a photo of a plate full of beans, bacon , fried egg, sausage and bread. Starting the day with a British Full English brings everyone back to life, although nothing like a good smurf with oil and tomato while enjoying views of the heavenly beach of Calahonda. In Anahi (calle Puerta del Mar, 6) (1) they serve them great on a terrace where you want to stay and live. Nearby, the Cuatro Esquinas coffee bar (Pintada, 55) (2) is a good option for some delicious churros with chocolate.
10.30 The Balcony of Europe
El Balcón de Europa (3) , the tourist epicenter of the town of Malaga, serves to locate oneself. At his feet, an emerald sea. At its sides, beautiful sandy areas surrounded by nature. Behind him the town rises, with white as the protagonist and always protected by the natural park of the Sierras Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama. Yes, it's selfie time. Also take a walk to see the Museum of Nerja (Plaza de España, 4) (4) , where archaeological remains of Phoenician origin await, a tour of the sugar cane industry and there are even memories of the mythical series of the eighties Summer blue . The entire local history.
12.00 Time to step on the sand
Why resist if you just have to go down a few steps to step on the sand and take a dip. The beaches of Calahonda (5) , El Salón (6) or Carabeo (7) are small pieces of sand in the middle of the city that never disappoint. To the west are La Torrecilla (8) and El Playazo (9) , narrow and long stretches. To the east, Burriana (10) is the most comfortable option of all. This beach has restaurants, hammocks, pedal boats, parking and covers all the needs of family fun. There is the option of renting a kayak for those who want to get lost in the waves for a while.
14.00 Paella at the beach bar
One of the most mythical places in Nerja is located at number 15 on Paseo de Burriana. It's called Ayo (ayonerja.com) (11) , and it's a picnic area that may sound familiar to you because it was the scene of some sequences from Verano azul . Don't expect luxuries here, but feel at home and eat until you're full, because once you pay for the paella dish you can fill it up as many times as you like. Fried fish, salads and omelettes complete the menu. Another option to eat is Sollun (Pintada, 9; sollunrestaurant.com) (12) , which offers creative cuisine with local produce. And if a gastronomic trip is what you fancy, downtown will come across options of Italian and Indian food.
16.00 Delve into the past
Six decades after five kids found it by chance, the Nerja cave (Cuevadenerja.es) (13) is a safe bet to be surprised and, incidentally , escape the heat. Located in Maro, four kilometers from the urban center, its refreshing underground galleries are pages of history, and its cavities, a laboratory for science. The cave has become a gold mine thanks to tourism: about 20 million visitors have passed through here since its opening. It is only possible to penetrate along a third of its 35,000 square meters of surface, but that is enough. Walking through its nine rooms among rock art and amazing rock formations sculpted by water and time is something unique. As you can see, in the so-called Cataclysm room, the largest known karst column, 45 meters high. Due to covid-19, visits are made by family units, with a distance of five meters between each of them, the use of a mask and gloves is mandatory and, in addition, a thermal camera has been established at the entrance.
18.00 Getaway to Maro
No visit to Nerja is complete if you do not walk through Maro (14) , a small white district of 700 inhabitants. The best thing is its beaches, which are sheltered in the natural area Cliffs of Maro-Cerro Gordo. Some are made of stones and others made of sand, but all of them have to go down narrow paths between endemic species such as the malagueña immortelle and white rosemary. In areas such as Calas del Pino or Las Alberquillas beach, the effort is always worth it because transparent waters and a diving paradise await below. You will be grateful to have put your shoes in your backpack. Not to be missed is the excursion to the spectacular 15-meter high waterfall that is easily accessible on the back of a paddle surf board .
21.00 The best ending
A day at the beach makes you hungry and can be satisfied by practicing the art of tapas. And this here is very simple. The first can be taken at El Rincón de la Tapa (calle de Cantarero, 2), in Maro, and then follow the route through the historic center of Nerja. Shrimp and cuttlefish skewer at El Pulguilla (Almirante Ferrándiz, 26) (15) or some montaditos at La Piqueta (Pintada, 8) (16) can be used to continue. Then it is the turn of some fried anchovies at the Taberna de Pepe (Herrera Oria, 30) (17) , the Dolores El Chispa bar (San Pedro, 12) (18) or La Rienda (Chaparil, 18) (19) . Another option is to end with the same beautiful panorama with which the day began at Restaurant 34 , inside the Carabeo hotel (hotelcarabeo.com) (20) . Good cuisine and views of the Mediterranean under the light of the stars to wish, why not, another 24 hours in Nerja. Let the loop begin.
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