48 hours in Porto, epicurean stroll in the wine capital

For Lisboners, Porto is firmly anchored in the North and its weather arouses a certain suspicion.

A stone's throw from the Atlantic coast, it is exposed to depressions, just like the rest of Portugal.

For any other European, it will be a southern destination, a guarantee of change of scenery.

And it starts with the Portuguese codes: the celestial azulejos, blue and white earthenware tiles, acclimatized on a dark granite background.

Porto plays a partition between austerity and light.

Tucked in between steep hillsides, the whole city descends towards the Douro in an interlacing of dark alleys where the sun does not penetrate.

Then an oversized church rises and clears its way around it.

Immersion for a weekend in a palette of colors, shapes, architecture and flavors with a high seductive content.

The arrival

In São Bento station, the Salle des Pas Perdus is a masterpiece of azulejo art.

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The best first contact with Porto is the

in the heart of the city.

Superb introduction!

The building is spectacular.

So this will be your first stroll.

A 19th century railway cathedral with 20,000 azulejos telling the story of Portugal.

If you haven't had time to review Portugal's glorious past before your arrival, don't panic, it unfolds before your eyes in pictures.

Once the lesson has been learned, a glance at the majestic facade and all you have to do is grab your suitcase to reach your pied-à-terre.

The train, like the car or the taxi from the airport will take you over a vertiginous bridge over the Douro.

From above, we scan the quays to identify the Ribeira district and the historic center, listed as Unesco Heritage.

Finally, we will take the

, a key which gives unlimited access to public transport and to museums or historic monuments (version 1 to 4 days, from 13 to 33 €).

Purchase online or at metro stations and tourist offices.

At the moment

THE RIGHT TABLE

Much more than a restaurant, the Euskalduna Studio is a laboratory of flavors and textures, where the quality and originality of the dishes are guaranteed.

Euskalduna Studio

Euskalduna Studio

Attention nugget!

Chef Vasco Coelho Santos offers a rare experience here.

From the outset, he scrambles the cards with this name that sounds Basque.

A nod to his first name Vasco (Basque in Spanish) and his initiatory journey in this region.

Then, we enter this neo tavern which looks furiously like a Japanese restaurant.

A tribute from the chef to Japanese cuisine, the tone is set.

We sit at the counter.

This is where it all happens.

Many calls, few elected.

You have to book months in advance.

We're at the show.

Before our eyes, the chef and his team compose a secret score: tasting menu made up of

.

Dazzling and greedy moments.

Vasco works on his Lusitanian classics: octopus and citrus fruit for dessert (steamed orange cake, orange zest and turmeric cream, grapefruit ice cream and lemon cream).

Everything is powerful, concentrated, rhythmic and lively but also playful and inventive like these sea urchin pancakes.

Vasco plays with variations of flavors and materials (pomegranate granita and fennel cream).

We are never bored and we have only one desire: to come back for another bath of creativity.

10-course menu, € 100 per person.

Euskalduna Studio, Rua Santo Idelfonso, 404, 4000-466 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 935 335 301.

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

Torel Avantgarde offers the delightful feel of a country hotel.

Torel Avantgarde

Torel Avantgarde

More than avant-garde, this hotel constitutes an outpost from which to contemplate Porto from another angle.

Slightly set back from the historic center, on a hill, it offers the delicious feeling of a country establishment.

The view is plunging over the Douro.

Next door, an educational and participatory orchard where the chef gets his supplies.

While doing a few laps in the swimming pool, we will observe the nuns of the neighboring convent hanging out their laundry in a charming garden.

One will quickly cross the fully carpeted entrance hall, wall to ceiling, with a dubious accumulation of fake flowers, to focus on the natural beauty of the views and the elegant comfort of the rooms.

Torel has a knack for finding urban locations with a Sunday vibe in the countryside.

This is already the case with its Lisbon establishment.

From € 120 per night in a double room.

Hotel Torel Avantgarde, Rua da Restauração 336, 4050-501 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 011 0082.

DAY 1: OVER THE DOURO

Morning

In Brasileira, an Art Nouveau iron and glass temple dedicated to the R. do Bonjardim cafe.

Sabine Bouvet / Le Figaro

We wake up with the sweet scent of coffee at

where we will have left our luggage close to the station.

Because here it's coffee on all floors!

A small counter is specifically provided for this purpose on each floor, which will delight apprentice baristas.

It must be said that this touch of madness sparked a real passion in Porto when, in 1903, a certain Adriano Teles opened

, an Art Nouveau temple of iron and glass dedicated to this black gold, the first establishment where we serves the beverage by the cup.

A pharmacist by trade, the young man left for Brazil where he made his fortune through the coffee trade.

Located on the ground floor, the iconic A Brasileira was completely restored when the hotel opened.

We can always read inscriptions above the spittoons "do not spit on the ground" so much the power of the drink surprised consumers.

Once the nectar has been swallowed, we will head for another passion of Porto: metal with the

built in the 1880s by a student of Gustave Eiffel.

It doubles the

of the great Gustave, intended for the train.

"

" said Paul Morand.

The Dom Luis I bridge, throws its spectacular iron arch 68 m high above the Douro.

It connects the

district

(by the river) with

.

Lunch break

The Pestana Palácio do Freixo - Pousada & National Monument offers a unique concept that brings together two historic buildings: an 18th century Baroque palace and a 19th century factory.

Sabine Bouvet / Le Figaro

Before changing banks, let's follow the course of the Douro for 3 kilometers for a lunch with our feet in the water at the

An old soap factory, a brick building backing onto a pure Baroque palace, listed as a Historic Monument and signed by the Italian Niccoló Nasoni, major architect of Porto.

Moreover, the Nasoni Dining & Bar pays homage to him.

We will sit on the terrace to contemplate the Italian-style gardens as far as the Rio Douro.

Afternoon

In Vila Nova de Gaia you can walk along the river, but above all visit some of the most famous wineries in Porto.

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Let's cross the river.

Another shore, another world!

has been the headquarters of Port wine producers and merchants since the 18th century.

Each has its own warehouses, the vineyards being in the Douro Valley.

This is where Port wine barrels arrived by boat.

We can still see these traditional boats - sailing boats - on which the barrels were transported.

Bottling is done on this shore.

Cellar visits and tastings of the biggest names Sandeman, Calem, Porto Cruz, Taylor's, Graham's, Ferreira, etc.

From which to occupy an entire afternoon or even several days.

Aperitif and dinner

We will stay at sunset strolling on the quays when the Douro takes on an amber hue.

We will cross the bridge to dine in the bohemian and cozy atmosphere of

.

Cracked walls, patinated leather armchairs and, under portraits of false ancestors, large wooden tables to accommodate typical generous dishes revisited just what you need (cuttlefish, cheese platters to share, simmered meats but also burgers etc. ).

We will go to bed early because the next day will be sporty!

DAY 2: SURF, BOOKS AND SCENTS

Morning

Matosinhos is the largest beach accessible directly from downtown Porto.

Located in the municipality of Vila Nova de Gaia, the hexagonal chapel of the Lord of Peter is perched on a rock.

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Porto is a stone's throw from the ocean, did you know that?

Barely 6 km separate the city from the Atlantic!

All you have to do is get on a bicycle (rental Biclas & Triclas, rua Nova de Alfândega 108. tricla.pt) to cover the few kilometers with your nose in the wind, along the Douro.

You quickly feel the sea breeze, even the spray.

An invigorating stroll through the beautiful neighborhoods, and scrolling through all kinds of architecture, from the narrow and polychrome houses of the city center to the opulent Art Deco villas and their lush gardens, passing by the faded Belle Époque belvederes.

You can even surf once you arrive at

, anteroom of the industrial port of Leix

es.

The seafront no longer has the old-fashioned charm of the first beaches, but the waves are good and the surf schools are there.

In the meantime, we will have stopped in one of the beach bars, seaside offspring of the 1960s or

.

Lunch

Take the tangent and sit down at

, a gourmet concept created by Emanuel and Patrícia Sousa, brother and sister, and a tandem creator of a global art of living.

Authors of

, a stylish bed & breakfast in a townhouse, they sign here in this old bookstore, a locavore restaurant completely in tune with the times, from ingredients to visual identity.

A refined and demanding menu in a 1970s decor that is larger than life, where you tell yourself when you leave the table that you should shoot a movie.

Right now and all summer long, you can take a picnic kit for the beach for two with sandwiches, chia pudding and dessert.

Earlymade, a concept store with the best of fashion, design and art "Made in Portugal".

Earlymade

And if we want to navigate the imagination of Emanuel and Patrícia, we will start our shopping session of the day at

, a concept store workshop for a very personal wardrobe.

Or a selection of international designers having their collections produced in Porto.

These stylists have become regulars at Rosa and Tal Townhouse.

Links have been forged.

And instead of all of their production going abroad, they leave a few pieces at Earlymade, which becomes their local showcase.

Afternoon

The Lello bookstore or “Livraria Lello & Irmão” in Porto is considered one of the most beautiful in the world.

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Passage required at the

.

A true historical monument, this essential bookstore and ranked among the most beautiful in the world.

It attracts crowds and its entry is now paying (5 €) to channel the flow of admirers.

It must be said that it offers a journey through time.

The visitor is propelled in 1869 to the top of this wooden staircase, with double flight, a masterful and majestic room.

For the record, the Lello bookstore has, according to legend, inspired the author of

, JK Rowling.

The only certainty is that the writer lived well in the city.

To extend this trip, we will go to the

store

, a brand that handles vintage and nostalgia.

Located in the former store of the fabric publisher Camões & Moreira (1947), it highlights Portuguese craftsmanship with a spotlight on textiles: colorful woven blankets, sober household linen or even the famous plant-inspired tableware by Bordallo Pinheiro (dish shaped like a cabbage leaf, etc.).

The Claus Porto house, founded 130 years ago in Portugal and handed down over four generations, has managed to preserve the authenticity of its former success, in particular thanks to its experts and their artisanal know-how.

CLAUS PORTO

This nostalgic stroll reaches its peak at

In 2017, the brand, renowned for its soaps and other cosmetic products, offered itself a showcase worthy of the name, before opening another in New York.

From soap to perfume, Claus Porto cultivates a deliciously retro charm brought up to date.

The 1930s packaging are so many little graphic gems.

Evening

Bartolomeu Bistro & Wine at the Hotel Torel 1884. Sabine Bouvet / Le Figaro

Tired of a morning of cycling and an afternoon of shopping, we will opt for a dinner aperitif.

You can choose from in

1,500 m² of flea market in a huge hangar with different stalls, each with its own specialty, but also an outdoor bar with umbrellas and green plants.

An eclectic place that will delight Chinese lovers!

At the

at the Hotel

, you can order a glass of wine and a few

(Portuguese tapas) in an exotic decor of colonial inspiration.

The journey has only just begun!

Address Book

A two-hour flight from Paris, it's the perfect getaway to disconnect and enjoy the sweet Portuguese way of life.

Our good addresses.

Sabine Bouvet / Le Figaro

DRINK A COFFEE OR A GLASS

In Brasileira, R. do Bonjardim 116, 4000-440 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 965 051 261.

Bartolomeu Bistro & Wine, R. de Mouzinho da Silveira 228 4000, 4050-417 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 609 0003.

GOOD TABLES

Porto is full of good restaurant addresses.

Armazem

Pestana Palácio do Freixo, Estrada Nacional 108, 4300-316 Campanhã

tel.

: +351 21 040 7600.

Early cedofeita, Rua dos Bragas 374, 4050-122 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 112 4203.

Cantina 32, Rua das Flores 32, 4050-262 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 203 9069.

Armazém, Rua de Miragaia 93, 4050-387 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 201 1702.

OR SLEEP ?

Away from the crowds, Rosa Et Al Townhouse offers pretty suites with garden or city views in downtown Porto.

Rosa ET Al Townhouse

Pestana Porto In Brasileira, Rua de Sá da Bandeira, 91, 4000-427 Porto.

Phone.

+351 21 041 7160. From € 102 per night.

Torel 1884 Suites & Apartments, Rua de Mouzinho da Silveira 228, 4050-417 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 600 1783. From € 120 per night.

Rosa ET Al Townhouse, Rua do Rosário 233,4050-524 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 340 0730. From 95 € per night.

SHOPPING

Early made, Rua do Rosário, 235, 4050-524 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 099 5524.

Claus Porto, Rua das flores 22, 4050-262 Porto.

Phone.

:

351 914 290 359

Livraria Lello & Irmão, Rua das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 200 2037.

Vida portuguesa, Rua Cândido dos Reis, 36, Porto.

Phone.

: +351 22 202 2105.

TO KNOW

Slip in your suitcase a windbreaker, sunscreen, a little wool (cool summer evenings).

GO

With the Tap (tel: 0820.319.320).

Flights from Paris, Lyon, from Marseille, Toulouse and Nice, Bordeaux and Nantes.

Read also: Ten reasons to discover Portugal