In times when any trip seems like an odyssey, and crossing a border an unattainable dream, a getaway to Gran Canaria is an almost exotic trip.
Even if we have been before, this island lends itself to interesting rediscoveries.
For example, living three or four seasons of the year in a single day, traveling between the coast and the mountains;
discover why it is one of the great international destinations for surfing;
contemplate the impressive spectacular nature of the volcanic mountains in places like Artenara;
delve into the ancestral mysteries of the Guanches or try traditional Canarian flavors with a creative touch.
And all in what is currently the safest healthcare environment in Spain.
MORE INFORMATION
in the 'Lonely Planet Guide to the Canary Islands' and at lonelyplanet.es
01 Las Palmas de Galdós
In Madrid they boast of Benito Pérez Galdós.
He lived, died and was buried in the capital, where he also left innumerable traces, which today are traversed as a route through the
Galdosian
Madrid
.
But the novelist was born in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and grew up there and also left his traces.
He was even elected a deputy in the Cortes for Las Palmas.
Now, on the centenary of his death, a literary and historical walk through the neighborhoods of Vegueta and Triana takes us to the most Galdosian places in the island capital.
The first stop is inevitably his house-museum, at number 6 Cano Street, in the Triana neighborhood, an 18th-century house where he grew up with his nine siblings and which saw the literary and artistic awakening of the author.
Among the documentation, books and souvenirs that the museum exhibits, an indelible image: that of the famous portrait of Galdós painted by Sorolla, which a whole generation of Spaniards remembers printed on the 1,000 pesetas banknotes.
enlarge photo The renovated Pérez Galdós theater, in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
alamy
The tour continues through the church of the convent of San Francisco, where he was baptized;
the college of San Agustín, where he studied;
the Gothic cathedral, but with a neoclassical facade, of Santa Ana, which served the young Galdós as the setting for some of his stories, or the Literary Cabinet, with its elegant modernist rooms, where the novelist attended the Academy of Drawing and frequented his concerts.
Today it is a National Monument and although it is a private institution, it has cultural events open to all and a restaurant.
His memory also remains in places such as the Pérez Galdós theater, which bears his name despite the fact that the writer in his day firmly opposed the construction of this building at the mouth of the Guiniguada ravine.
This Galdosian route takes the opportunity to make stops at other landmarks in the center of Las Palmas, such as the old town hall houses, or even in front of the graffiti of the artist Matías Mata (Sabotage to the Assembly) in various buildings on Zaragoza Street, in the Schamann neighborhood, that recreate the figures of Galdós and some of the characters in his novels.
enlarge photo Exterior of the Casa de Colón, in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
Chris Howes Alamy
02 From Columbus's caravels to a supersonic journey
There is no visit to Las Palmas that does not begin by stating that Christopher Columbus lived here before heading to the Indies.
The visit to the Casa de Colón documents the Admiral's travels and the relevant (and strategic) role of the Canarian archipelago in transatlantic navigation.
We will find a replica of the
Girl
in almost life size (magnet for children), models, cartography, facsimiles and even nautical instruments of the time.
The museum occupies the House of Governors that Columbus visited on his first trip, although what is seen today is a product of reforms and annexations that have resulted in a Neo-Canarian building divided into four patios, which do not lack balconies, fountains, palm trees and even a couple of parrots.
And taking a trip back in time we arrive at another of the best museums on the islands: the Atlantic Center of Modern Art (CAAM), which occupies an 18th century building with galleries bathed in natural light that display almost 3,000 works from its permanent collection. .
It also has two branches with temporary exhibitions: the CAAM San Antonio Abad and the San Martín Centro de Cultura Contemporánea, in a former hospital.
With children it is essential to spend a few hours in the Elder Museum of Science and Technology, a 21st century center full of things that buzz and make noise, where they can pilot a supersonic fighter, see how rockets place satellites in orbit or give a turn on the Robocoaster.
The museum occupies a green-painted 19th century port warehouse in Santa Catalina Park.
enlarge photo Dish from Qué Leches restaurant, in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
03 The new values of Canarian gastronomy
Carajacas
, a typical tapa with fried liver pieces and spicy mojo;
a few
turns,
very fine fillets of beef or grilled pork, or the highly valued
old woman,
a fish from the parrotfish family that appears on all Canarian menus, such as its famous
wrinkled potatoes
with mojo picón.
Its cheeses are also delicious, such as Flor de Gran Canaria, which is produced exclusively in the north of Guía and is curdled with thistle flowers, which impregnate it with its aroma, or the shepherd's cheese from Arucas.
And its desserts, strong, such as the traditional bienmesabe or a honey rum that many tourists buy at the distillery in this same town in the north of the island.
But not everything is tradition in Gran Canaria.
Las Palmas is presented as a gastronomic capital in which new ideas for very creative kitchens have emerged, such as Neodimio 60, a small restaurant in Las Canteras with only four tables that in a very short time has surprised with its market cuisine based on products from season.
Their menu is short and simple, but its owners, Nayra and Daniel, renew it every 15 days.
Lucira gastrobar also triumphs, in which the brothers María and Samuel have opted for exotic flavors with a traditional base;
many of their dishes take us to Thailand and other destinations that both chefs have discovered in their travels around the world.
A good atmosphere is breathed in Karmacoma, a place in the heart of Guanarteme that cooks with fresh products and nods to oriental cuisine, with the culmination of some delicious homemade cakes.
We will also find international winks superimposed on Canarian cuisine in Qué Leche, a casual and no-frills restaurant in the Triana neighborhood;
Nikkei style corvina with ponzu broth, Saharan squid with pistachio, paramesan, ginger emulsion and ink.
In Alcaravaneras we will find unexpected flavors supported by Canarian products and traditional recipes from the islands, to which El Equilibrista 33 has given a twist.
For example, their mole eggs with natural Canarian gofio, which they serve as dessert.
Always up-to-date dishes are also protagonists in one of the city's historic restaurants, the Bodegón el Pueblo Canario, now with a prestigious chef at the helm, José Rojano.
Its menu does not lack
carajacas,
island cheeses, goat meat and baifo, black pig or octopus chickpea gratin with watercress aioli.
enlarge photo Visitors in the Canarian Garden Viera y Clavijo, in the Guiniguada ravine (Gran Canaria).
alamy
04 Botanical cycle route through Guiniguada
Cyclists who live in Las Palmas know the Guiniguada trail well, a route of about seven and a half kilometers that begins in Vegueta, leaves the city and goes into nature.
The path, which follows the Guiniguada ravine through agricultural areas, leaves behind aboriginal caves and, of course, the famous Canarian palm trees that are one of the keys to the island ecosystem.
Clinging to the walls of the ravine, we find the Viera y Clavijo Canarian Botanical Garden, one of the jewels of the city.
This extensive orchard, just nine kilometers from Las Palmas - it is easily reached by bus from the center - has 27 hectares - it is the largest botanical garden in Spain - and all kinds of Macaronesian flora from the entire archipelago, including species in Danger of extinction.
enlarge photo Panorama of the town of Gáldar, north of Gran Canaria.
Henryk Sadura getty
05 A ride full of curves
Driving through the north of Gran Canaria is a complete experience of towns and villages through a changing landscape in which spectacular ravines alternate with cultivated terraces, or pine forests covered with lichens and mosses fed by the mist.
And on the way, some stops allow us to get to know the Canarian soul, such as Teror, an inland town where the patron saint of the island, Nuestra Señora del Pino, is guarded.
This is a typical town, with old houses painted in colors, many of them with wooden balconies, and with a historical charm that oozes between its stones.
If we find the agricultural market in the main square (on Saturdays) we will also discover the delicious local chorizo.
In the north there is also the aforementioned Arucas, charming with its elegant historical buildings and a beautiful botanical garden.
To contemplate a splendid panorama of the entire northern coast, you have to climb the Arucas mountain (2.5 kilometers from the town), or advance to Moya, skirting the side of the mountain.
The walk ends in Gáldar, a historic town that was the capital of the kingdom (Guanartemato) in prehistoric times and where the extraordinary cave paintings exhibited in the Cueva Pintada archaeological park, decorated with geometric shapes, were discovered.
Then it only remains to drive to the edge of the abyss following the spectacular road from Agaete to the Aldea de San Nicolás.
It is not easy to stop during the journey, so it is best to take advantage of every opportunity to contemplate the panorama.
At the end, in the port of La Aldea we will be able to recall the experience by tasting a good fish or an old clothes of octopus, a typical local stew of chickpeas and octopus.
enlarge photo Panoramic view of the Guayadeque ravine, in Gran Canaria.
damien calmel getty
06 Guanche trails in the Guayadeque ravine
One of the best experiences on the island –and one of its most popular destinations– is the Guayadeque ravine, which opens up amid a display of rugged ridges, dotted with pre-Hispanic archaeological remains and valuable endemic flora and fauna.
The best time to visit this lush corner of Gran Canaria is in spring, when the almond trees are in full pink and white bloom.
However, it is also a beautiful and leafy place all year round, flanked by rugged mountains with excavated caves that today house restaurants, bars and even a tiny chapel, next to the Guayadeque bar, with its pulpit, altar and confessional carved in the rock.
You should not miss a walk along one of the trails with wide views to the sea.
In this area of canyons and samples on the ground of how water and wind have shaped the volcanic tuff, there is also the hamlet of Temisas, evocative with its traditional houses.
Also the homonymous canyon, which is a miniature version of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado.
The Canary Islands is recognized as a Dark Sky destination for stargazing, thanks to its location and low light pollution, and here we can enjoy the fabulous Temisas observatory, 850 meters above sea level, on the edge of the Tirajana caldera. .
enlarge photo Artenara, the highest town in Gran Canaria.
getty images
07 Artenara, the highest town on the island
The winding roads that go into the heart of the island lead to landscapes and experiences very different from those of the dune scenarios and
tourist
resorts
of the south.
Mile by kilometer, you go from full sun to the most impenetrable fog when you turn a bend, and after the next bend the sun shines again.
A huge and varied region that culminates in Artenara, the highest town in Gran Canaria (at 1,270 meters).
As is to be expected, the views from here are impressive, such as the perspective of the huge volcanic canyon that can be seen from the Unamuno viewpoint, one of the many that are signposted.
In Artenara people live in caves, restaurants are in caves, the city museum occupies several caves and, of course, there is a cave converted into a Rural House.
In a nod to Rio de Janeiro, a Christ with open arms (smaller than the Carioca) presides over this quiet town.
The Cuevita Sanctuary, one of the most beloved chapels on the island, is also housed in a cavity.
enlarge photo Views from the Tejada area, in Gran Canaria.
Julen Garcés Carro getty
Very close to Artenara, Tejeda perches picturesquely on the edge of the caldera of the same name, a huge volcanic basin in the interior of the island.
The roads that lead here pass through a splendid landscape, with high cliffs and deep ravines.
And the town does not disappoint, with steep and winding streets dotted with houses with balconies.
Tejeda has an unavoidable stop: the Dulcería Nublo Tejeda, where there is usually a queue to try their cakes, bienmesabe and other local delicacies that they have been preparing for more than 70 years.
The Parador de Tejeda has also taken advantage of an incredible location.
Above is the Cruz de Tejeda, which marks the center of the island and whose viewpoints contemplate the main wonders of the island: to the west, the sacred mountain of Roque Bentayga, and on a clear day, the immense volcanic pyramid of Teide in Tenerife ;
to the southeast, the highest peak of Gran Canaria, the Pozo de las Nieves, and the island emblem, the Roque Nublo, often shrouded in clouds.
Several walking routes of all levels start from here, such as the recommended circular route from Cruz de Tejeda to Roque Nublo (12.5 kilometers).
enlarge photo Surfers on the beach of Las Canteras, in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
alamy
08 Enjoy a first class surf
With a pleasant climate all year round and excellent waves, the island has become one of those meccas where surfers from all over the world flock every year.
Only Las Palmas de Gran Canaria has 12 good
spots
, among which La Cicer stands out, at the southern end of Las Canteras beach, next to the Alfredo Kraus auditorium, suitable for all levels, beginners included.
Also, in the nearby Guanarteme neighborhood there are equipment stores, surf lodges and many of the schools.
Also in Las Canteras is El Lloret, an area for more advanced levels, with waves that rise over a bed of stones and with several peaks on the right and left.
Due to its urban condition (very accessible) it is usually frequented by local surfers, the atmosphere is very sporty and offers one of the best right-hand waves on the island.
Finally, El Confital is a volcanic natural space with an impressive tube wave that breaks to the right, perfect for expert surfers.
So much so that it has been used in world championships, such as the World Surf League and Red Bull Rivals.
enlarge photo Dunes of the Maspalomas natural reserve, south of Gran Canaria.
getty images
09 Sand waves in the south: Maspalomas
In normal times, the south of Gran Canaria is a succession of beaches full of tourists.
But beyond
resorts
and umbrellas are some spectacular natural wonders, such as Maspalomas and its dunes, a 400-hectare nature reserve (since the 1990s) reminiscent of the Sahara desert and that, avoiding the high season, can be everything. a discovery.
Another option is to follow, in the direction of Puerto de Mogán, the succession of beaches on the south coast of the island;
Although it has been largely invaded by tourism, it still retains some of its primitive charm.
And then you have to escape to the interior to immerse yourself and spend the night in the authenticity of the town of Mogán, small and between mountains, which still prevails.
enlarge photo View of the Gran Canaria town of Agüimes.
getty images
10 Island Bypass
One week in Gran Canaria is enough to get a general idea of the island;
explore the capital's museums and restaurants, eat fresh fish in a port on the coast, admire its mountains, kick its ravines and volcanoes and even go to the beach to do nothing but sunbathe or surf waves.
If we start in Las Palmas it is a must to walk through Las Canteras (and take a dip in the ocean), to continue with a tour of the historic Vegeta neighborhood and its museums, and a small gastronomic route.
The tour along the north coast will take us to Gáldar and Puerto de las Nieves, to then go down to the west.
Lunch is a must in Puerto de la Aldea before continuing to the most touristy areas of Mogán and the southeast beaches to walk and swim, or be surprised by the immense dunes of Maspalomas.
And it is time to go up again to the north, but entering the rugged interior of the island: Tejeda, with its beautiful views, some hikers' adventure through its ravines of abrupt beauty, a climb to the culminating town of the island, Artenara, to then descend, between curves, towards the coast and Agüimes, with its pastel-colored buildings and historical charm.
Or if you prefer, passing through the exuberant Guayadeque ravine, where we can have lunch in a cave before completing the bypass of the island.
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