At the gates of the Verdon Regional Natural Park, the Haut-Var displays its string of villages suspended in time and the hills of oaks, pines and olive trees.
"Villages of character" or listed in the inventory of the most beautiful villages in France, in which it is good to stroll to the murmur of the fountains.
Nestled at the foot of a cliff, like Cotignac, perched on a promontory, like Tourtour, the villages of Haut-Var can be earned after a few kilometers of winding, sometimes sensational driving.
If the summer period is full of tourists vacationing or stopping over on the road to the Gorges du Verdon, winter reveals another facet of Haut-Var.
More traditional, authentic and peaceful ...
Read also: Twelve “most beautiful villages in France” accessible without a car
Cotignac
The cave dwellings of Cotignac.
Adobe Stock / Gerald Villena
Installed at the foot of an impressive tuff cliff - the “Rocher” - the Provençal city reveals a maze of flowery alleys which lead to Cours Gambetta, its heart beating.
A prosperous town in the 18th and 19th centuries, with its 11 flour and oil mills, its meat and wine production, Cotignac has retained its dynamism.
Do not miss.
Go admire the cliff which rises to 80 meters in height!
In passing, one will note the presence of troglodyte dwellings encrusted in the wall.
The visit of the "Rock", in summer, allows you to evolve, from caves to caves, on the cliff.
And to take the experience a little further, know that you can even spend a night in an authentic troglodyte house rented by the inhabitant!
Side celebrations.
On the Cours Gambetta, the Ruchers du Bessillon boutique, one of the oldest honey shops in Europe, presents around fifty honeys produced throughout France.
In his woodturning workshop, O Tour des Collines, a craftsman invites children to customize their spinning tops made on site.
Château Nestuby, a wine estate located 5 km from Cotignac, has opened its wine bar / dining cellar - Nestuby cellar & bar - on the Cours Gambetta to showcase its cuvées.
Finally, it is in Cotignac that a consecrated best bottarga (or bottarga) in the world in 2019 is made!
In her So'Boutargue manufacturing workshop, Elodie Bar works her wild high seas mullet eggs which are salted, washed, rinsed and dried in the olive groves, then coated with a thin layer of wax.
Different refinements to discover in his shop which will open in the spring in the Loup à Loup area.
Find out more: on Green Provence and Verdon Tourisme.
Tourtour
The alleys of Tourtour tell of its medieval past.
Adobe Stock / Elodie
"Village in the sky of Provence", a jewel perched at an altitude of 600 meters, heading for Tourtour!
Its walls of ramparts still visible, its castle, its alleys tell about its medieval past.
From the Saint-Denis church and the Place Annabelle and Bernard Buffet, the panorama is imposing, from the Massif des Maures to Sainte-Victoire.
Do not miss.
The 8 fountains of Tourtour are supplied by the source of the Saint-Rosaire, just like the authentic oil mill, still in operation and which can be visited, during exhibitions, in summer.
Stroll through the alleys to discover the old wash house, the Clock Tower, the Théâtre de Verdure and the bronze sculptures by Bernard Buffet exhibited on the forecourt of the Communal Castle.
Side celebrations.
On the Place des Ormeaux, a few terraces of cafes and restaurants laze around at sunset.
To try: the restaurant La Table, by chef Laurent Guyon for its refined cuisine.
Otherwise, take a trip to the Vision photo workshop-gallery to admire some pretty pictures, and your shopping at the store of the ready-to-wear brand Le Petit français du Sud.
We stroll in front of the windows of art galleries, and we put our suitcases at the Bastide de Tourtour, a 4-star hotel.
Find out more: at the tourist information office, 2 place de la Trinité 83690, Tourtour and on the website www.lacs-gorges-verdon.fr
Aups
Aups is the Var capital of black truffles.
Philippe Murtas-AupsTourism
At the gates of the Gorges du Verdon, the village with a rich past is planted in a green setting at the foot of the mountain of Espiguières.
Var capital of black truffles, "tuber melanosporum", Aups lives, in winter, to the rhythm of its famous truffle market, which is held from late November to February.
Do not miss.
This traditional meeting brings together a dozen local producers, every Thursday (from November 26, depending on sanitary conditions).
The Truffle Day, which has been held on the fourth Sunday in January for 27 years, creates the event.
Demonstration of digging with a sow and competition of truffle dogs are on the program.
To find out more about the "black diamond" of Aups, visit the Maison de la Truffe and its ultra-modern exhibition space where culinary workshops are given in summer.
Also to discover: the Simon Segal Museum, nestled in the chapel of the former Ursuline convent and the Maria de Faykod Museum, which exhibits Carrara marble sculptures in the open air.
Side celebrations.
To stay in the theme, head to the restaurant La Truffe, signed by Sébastien Gaillard.
Find out more: on Aups Tourisme and https://www.lacs-gorges-verdon.fr/
Châteaudouble
The road to reach Châteaudouble is winding.
Adobe Stock / Celli07
Another village of character that lives up to its name!
In the Middle Ages, two castles surrounded the Nartuby, the river flowing 130 meters below, in splendid gorges.
All that remains of them is the Saracen Tower, standing proudly above the rooftops.
To access Châteaudouble, walk its cobbled streets and arched passages, the road is winding.
Its last section is engulfed in a tunnel pierced in the rock.
We understand why the site has long been inaccessible.
Coming from the village of Ampus (15 minutes), slow down to enjoy the view of Châteaudouble.
Do not miss.
After the Le Château restaurant, continue to Place de l'Agachon.
From there, take the passage which indicates the direction of the belvedere.
Another panorama plunges into the gorges.
The Montée Sainte-Anne serves the plateau of the same name, on which the tower is installed.
A new flight of stairs leads to the Table des vents which dominates the village, the tower and the gorges.
By the way, don't miss the open-air exhibition by Za, a surprising sculptor.
Side celebrations.
Departing from Châteaudouble, then take the direction of Montferrat.
At the first crossroads, stop at Fromagerie la Pastourelle.
Wide choice of goat, sheep and cow cheeses and the possibility of greeting the animals in the sheepfold.
In Montferrat, chef Julien Lepine and his wife Magali welcome you to Clos de Pierrepont, hotel and gourmet restaurant.
On the menu: pheasant fillet stuffed with foie gras or Saint-Pierre aiguillette in seaweed crust.
Find out more:
on the Dracénie Provence Verdon website.
Bargemon
The village of Bargemon has preserved its medieval remains.
Adobe Stock / IMAREVA
Between Dracénie and Artuby, the "pearl of Haut Var" sparkles in its amphitheater of olive trees and hills.
Picturesque and lively village, with its squares, its bistros and its restaurants, Bargemon has preserved its vestiges of medieval times.
From the old ramparts of the village, you can see the village of Claviers facing it.
Do not miss.
The Beddington Fine Art Gallery, and the Ronde des Museums circuit with, in particular, the unusual museum of mechanography which lists typewriters, cash registers and cameras from another time or the Honoré Camos museum, by the famous painter animalier (among others), which takes place in the old St-Etienne chapel.
From the Couchoire fountain, at the entrance to the village, well-known spring water gushes out from which the surrounding villagers come to drink.
Leaving at the top of the village, take the Route de Brovès (D25) towards Bargème / La Bastide.
After 7 km, park in the car park on the left.
A hiking trail is signposted towards the Col du Bel Homme orientation table.
An easy walk of about 30 minutes which leads to a beautiful viewpoint over the mountains and the Mediterranean.
Find out more: on the Dracénie Provence Verdon website.
Practical notebook
GO
Cotignac
Take the A8 motorway (direction Nice), exit 35 (Brignoles).
Take D554, D562, D22 and D13 for 20 km towards Cotignac.
The nearest train station is in Carnoules.
Aups
Take the A8 motorway (direction Nice), exit 34 towards Barjols / Tourves / Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, route de Barjols, route de Draguignan for about 40 km.
Les Arcs Draguignan train station is 35 km away.
Tourtour
Take the A8.
Follow A8 towards D17 at Le Cannet-des-Maures.
Take exit 13 and leave A57.
35 minutes by car to the village.
Châteaudouble
Les Arcs-Draguignan train station 27 km away.
Exit 36 Saint-Tropez from the A8 motorway, then follow D1555 and D54 towards Châteaudouble.
Bargemon
Les Arcs-Draguignan SNCF train station 30 km away.
Exit 36 Saint-Tropez from the A8 motorway, then follow D1555, D54 and D25 towards Bargemon.
