The mountains far from the crowds: ten small village resorts to discover in France

What will this winter vacation look like?

A priori, you should not count on downhill skiing.

Due to the worsening of the Covid-19 pandemic, the government has decided not to open the ski lifts this winter in France, where cross-country skiing and ski touring are the subject of a great craze, while snow has fallen in abundance on our mountains.

At the same time, the announcement of a third confinement seems to be moving inexorably closer, and the cancellation conditions are scrutinized at least as much as the location of the accommodation, for any holidaymaker wishing to book.

To get away from it all, our selection of small resorts where skiing is one asset among others, to disconnect far from the crowds.

Serre-Eyraud, Ecrins massif (Hautes-Alpes)

Altitude:

1480 - 2100 meters.

Alpine skiing:

9 slopes;

3 ski lifts.

A little treasure on a northern slope, this resort, a stone's throw from the Ecrins National Park, offers natural skiing between larches and a good dose of snow.

This hamlet in the town of Orcières is home to an area both accessible for beginners at the bottom with a very gentle green slope, and much more engaged at the top of the Louret ski lift.

At the foot of the Grande Autane, at an altitude of 1,500 meters, the three ski lifts were installed on the initiative of the inhabitants of this tiny village of Champsaur and the land was not planed by bulldozers.

Its name is therefore whispered in the ears of off-piste skiing and hiking enthusiasts, contemplatives and families in search of authenticity.

What to do

:

a guided ski touring outing.

The Seigneur or Combeau passes, the summits of the Reculas or the Grande Autane are all magnificent and famous routes.

The right address:

L'Écrin des Hautes-Alpes.

This winner of the National Gîtes de France Coup de Cœur Prize is a jewel resulting from the renovation of a traditional farmhouse.

A cozy nest which also preserves natural resources.

Phone.

: 06 23 85 21 43.

CONVENIENT

Tourist office

(Tel .: 04 92 55 92 06);

greenhouse-eyraud.com

More broadly, tourist information for the Champsaur & Valgaudemar valleys.

Champsaur-Valgaudemar

guides office

:

guides-champsaur-valgaudemar.com

Day

alpine ski pass price

: adult € 16;

child € 12.90.

The Orcières Merlette lift pass gives access to the Serre-Eyraud resort.

Read also: Ski touring, everything you need to know before starting out

Saint-Véran, Queyras massif (Hautes-Alpes)

The village of Saint-Véran is classified among the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”.

Fabrice Amoros

Altitude:

1740-2830 meters.

Alpine skiing:

34 tracks;

13 ski lifts.

Nordic skiing:

30 kilometers.

The highest municipality in Europe is nestled in the landlocked Hautes-Alpes, in the heart of the Queyras Regional Natural Park.

In this listed village, the typical “log” dwellings and the sundials scattered over the facades bear witness to the relationship to time which here seems so different.

The wild, untouched setting plunges visitors into a natural break that will not leave you indifferent.

Small village that does not mean small skiing, the ski area linked with Molines offers more than 1000 meters of vertical drop and culminates at almost 3000 meters!

However, here, cross-country skiing also holds a great place (the Nordic site of Queyras is the 3rd domain in France) and the ice waterfalls are climbed from a young age ... The days are necessarily full and the nights they, offer the purest sky in Europe… To contemplate without limit.

To do:

take one of the maintained and largely groomed mountain routes towards the legendary Agnel or Izoard passes.

Closed to traffic in winter, these snow-capped passes unroll their kilometers and their splendid panorama for walkers, snowshoes, fatbikes or cross-country skiing ...

The right address:

Les Chalets du Villards.

This typical three-star hotel in the heart of the village offers large rooms facing south and equipped with kitchens.

Access to the cross-country ski trails is direct.

CONVENIENT

Alpine ski day rate:

adult 32.50;

child € 26.70.

Nordic ski day rate

(valid at all sites in the Espace Nordique du Queyras): adult € 11;

child € 5.50.

Reservations for all outdoor activities (snowshoeing, fatbiking, hiking, ice climbing, dog sledding, etc.) are centralized on the Tourist Office website (Tel .: 04 92 46 76 18).

The Entremont Desert, Chartreuse massif (Savoie)

Cross-country skiing tracks meander between the hamlets.

Nordic area of ​​Entremonts

Altitude:

1,100 - 1,400 meters.

Alpine skiing:

4 tracks;

3 ski lifts.

Nordic skiing:

45 kilometers.

At the northern tip of the Chartreuse massif, this evocatively named mini-resort invites you to disconnect.

Bright and open, there is something captivating about the decor.

The vast snow-covered pastures let thoughts wander freely.

The charm of the 12 agricultural hamlets with their numerous lodgings operates and is completed with the presence a few kilometers away of the mystical monastery of the Grande Chartreuse and its silent monks.

Dominated in the distance by the beautiful limestone cliffs of Mont-Granier, the four sunny slopes ensure a very accessible and relaxed family slide.

Beyond that, the plateau is perfect for a multitude of other winter activities, from cross-country skiing to fat biking, including snowshoeing.

The most gourmet will feast on cheeses and other products from the 27 farmers of the territory gathered within the dairy cooperative of Entremonts.

To do:

a fatbike outing on the route dedicated to these big-wheeled mountain bikes.

Electric or not, these equipped bikes spin perfectly over the 7 snow-covered kilometers dominating the valley that are reserved for them.

The right address:

The gîte de la Coquelle.

This wood-framed country barn was completely renovated in 2018. Its five bedrooms make it the ideal base camp for a group of friends or a large family.

Located in the village of Entremont le Vieux, 700 meters from the Nordic ski area.

Phone.

: 04 58 14 12 12.

CONVENIENT

Saint Pierre d'Entremont

tourist office

(Tel: 04 79 65 81 90.) chartreuse-tourisme.com

Day

alpine ski pass rate

: adult € 11;

child 10 €.

Nordic ski

day rate: adult € 8;

child € 4.50.

MCF

Mountain Bike School in

Chartreuse supervising Fatbike outings (Tel .: 04 38 86 91 31);

cartusiana.com

Read also: In small resorts, the tourist diversification map

Chastreix, Sancy massif (Puy-de-Dôme)

Great North ?

No, Sancy!

Press photo

Altitude:

1350 - 1730 meters.

Alpine skiing:

20 slopes;

7 ski lifts.

Nordic skiing:

46 kilometers.

The smallest resort in the Auvergne massif (but also the wildest) is located on the western slope of the volcano, which makes its sunsets with a view of the Puy de Sancy and its golden atmospheres for unique end of days.

The 1894 hectare national nature reserve has carefully preserved its gentle plateaus, its peat bogs and its cliffs, to feed the desires of great escapes 6 hours away from Paris.

A few chalets and small shops surround the well-appointed snow front equipped with a covered carpet and toboggan runs.

Behind, the vast expanses of snow provide the atmosphere of the Far North.

Do:

think of yourself as a musher.

After getting to know the pack of dogs, it's time to climb on the sled to drive your team over these wide open spaces.

From one-hour baptism to autonomous driving, young and old will fully experience the adventure.

The right address:

Les Greens.

These three mini-houses with green roofs, as atypical as they are welcoming, are located at the entrance to the nature reserve.

Phone.

: 09 72 65 81 73.

CONVENIENT

Chastreix Tourist Office

(Tel: 04 73 21 52 00);

sancy.com

Dog sled

driving

:

Randogs Chastreix.

Phone.

: 06 63 35 01 66;

Randogs Facebook Account

Day

alpine ski pass price

: adult € 14.60;

child € 11.60.

Nordic package price:

adult € 8.50;

child 6 €.

La Colmiane, Mercantour massif (Alpes-Maritimes)

From the slopes, the peaks of Mercantour show their wild aspects.

Press photo

Altitude:

1400-1800 meters.

Alpine skiing:

20 slopes;

7 ski lifts.

The last promontory of the Alpine arc before plunging into the Mediterranean, the Mercantour massif will appeal to travelers in search of wide open spaces.

In a region heavily affected by storm Alex, the small resort of Colmiane is now fully accessible and retains all of its charm.

An hour's drive from Nice, bathed in this unique southern light, it offers a unique mountain panorama on the edge of the National Park.

Equipped with a large ESF kindergarten with conveyor belt and a toboggan run, it ensures good skiing time for families.

For the great outdoors and to see the sea from the top of the area, snowshoeing and ski touring are very popular.

To do:

embark on one of the largest zip lines in France.

From the top of the domain (ascent by snowmobile at no extra cost in the event of closed lifts) the two lines fly over the territory up to 130 km / h maximum over 1879 meters and 784 m.

Accessible solo from 12 years old and duo from 8 years old.

The right address:

Ecolodge le Green, classified 4 stars, it offers 6 rooms with original and neat decor in natural or recycled materials for a refined natural atmosphere at the foot of the slopes.

Phone.

: 04 93 03 00 00.

CONVENIENT

Alpine ski

day rate: adult € 22;

child free up to 11 years old.

Accompanying guides

 : Compagnie Chemins d'azur.

Phone.

: 06 75 13 58 50.

Tyrolean reservation

 : puremontagne.fr

Tourist Office

(Tel .: 04 93 23 25 90);

colmiane.com

Read also: The Mercantour, valleys and wonders

Le Chazelet, Oisans massif (Hautes-Alpes)

The small village of Chazelet facing south, facing the Meije.

J Selberg

Altitude:

1740 - 2170 meters.

Alpine skiing:

5 tracks;

5 ski lifts.

A confidential resort facing the “Reine Meije” and its famous valleys, Le Chazelet is one of the five hamlets attached to La Grave en Oisans.

Perched on a sunny plateau, it combines the high mountain atmosphere with the charm of a traditional village classified among the most beautiful in France.

Picturesque alleys, stone houses and small producers' stalls are complemented by a ski area designed to progress in complete relaxation.

Pedestrians will follow the apprentices with their eyes from the most panoramic of the terraces, at the Plagnes chalet, and hikers will stick their sealskins on to take the direction of the Emparis plateau.

To do:

normally, the essential outing would of course be off-piste in the legendary Vallons de la Meije.

If the Glaciers de la Meije cable car remains closed, a change of equipment is necessary to go sliding on the beautiful Nordic area of ​​the Meije country from Arsine, between the toboggan area and the natural ice rink!

The right address:

La Roche Méane.

This guest house, located in Villar d'Arène, is an old farmhouse offering five spacious bedrooms equipped with a private bathroom.

The warm welcome makes it a perfect base camp after the beautiful days in the great outdoors.

CONVENIENT

Alpine skiing

day rate: adult € 18.50;

child: € 16.50.

Nordic ski

day rate: adult € 13;

free for children under 11.

Tourist Information Office

 : 04 76 79 90 05;

lagrave-lameije.com

Read also: Snow: winning backhand for the racket

Le Tanet, Vosges massif (Haut-Rhin)

Warm inns and large spaces at Tanet.

Munster Valley Tourist Office / Quentin Gachon

Altitude:

990 - 1280 meters.

Alpine skiing:

7 tracks;

4 ski lifts.

Just an hour from Colmar, in this resort in the Munster valley, it's not just cheese that is AOC.

Not equipped with a snow machine, the Tanet resort offers snow that only comes from the Alsatian sky.

Fir trees, beeches, valleys and small rocky bars set the scene and delight off-piste enthusiasts.

With almost as many ski lifts as there are inns, the atmosphere is warm and very family-friendly, the groomed toboggan run and the trails in the glacial cirques to Lac Vert are perfect for great snowshoeing breaks.

What to do

 : a must-

do

family outing, a visit to the Reindeer Farm allows you to discover these animals through an outdoor educational trail.

This herd, raised by a passionate couple, evolves in total freedom in the forest, at an altitude of 1096 meters.

The right address

: Les Chalets de La Marcairie.

Huge chalet on the mountainside, facing south and equipped with a spa.

Ideal for large families and tribes.

Phone.

: 06 81 21 59 84.

CONVENIENT

Tourist information

 : stations-munster.fr;

massif-des-vosges.com

Day

alpine ski pass price

: adult € 18;

child 15 €.

Snowshoeing guides: Terre de Sylphe.

Phone.

: 06 81 16 05 46.

Nordic skiing can be practiced on the Nordic site of Trois Fours located 15 kilometers from Le Tanet.

Read also: Nights in a hytte, forest baths and spa: Scandinavian-style weekend in the Vosges

La Sambuy, Bauges massif (Haute-Savoie)

Hike with a view of Lake Annecy.

Nalet / OT Sources du lac d'Annecy

Altitude:

1150 - 1850 meters.

Alpine skiing:

10 slopes;

3 ski lifts.

A small, unspoiled resort without a snow cannon, with a forest and a "hors-sac room", La Sambuy is only a stone's throw from Annecy.

Recognized for its view both on the Haut-Savoyard lake and on Mont Blanc from the top of the area, it also plays with this rocky and wild aspect which has earned it the nickname of “little Colorado”.

The resort may be small, but its slopes are no less technical.

Families and new skiers are not left out on the Chevreuil and Ardennaise slopes and on the Écureuils ski lift.

In addition to all types of walks in the Sambuy valley, descents in Yooner, sledging on snow or on rails are safe values ​​with for the latter the possibility of adding a virtual reality headset for more sensations.

Do:

go on an expedition.

At nightfall, all you need to do is climb on foot, on snowshoes or on ski touring to the top of the area to admire the lights on the city, its lake and the mountains.

After this magnificent spectacle, an unusual refuge plunges you into the world of polar expeditions for the night ...

The right address:

Up there.

Three “shelters”, very nicely recycled shipping containers for sleeping, eating and washing allow you to spend the night independently, in a comfortable, original and most natural way.

CONVENIENT

Day

alpine ski pass price

: adult € 19.50;

child € 15.50.

Tourist office (Tel .: 04 50 44 44 45);

sources-lac-annecy.com

Read also: 48 hours in Annecy, heading for the Venice of the Alps for a breath of fresh air

Val-Louron, Néouvielle massif (Hautes-Pyrénées)

The frosted shores of Lake Génos-Loudenvielle.

HPTE / Laurent Gaits

Altitude:

1450 - 2100 meters.

Alpine skiing:

20 slopes;

10 ski lifts.

In the heart of the Hautes-Pyrénées, this small car-free resort that connoisseurs describe as the most peaceful and welcoming of the Pyrenees offers a superb beginner's space.

Equipped with a covered carpet and five fun ski slopes dedicated to apprentices, it also has something to satisfy the best skiers with 6 red slopes and 1 black.

The natural atmosphere is particularly evident on the snowshoe trail in the Lapadé forest where the whole family watches for the traces of numerous animals before admiring the view from the belvederes of the peaks that form the border with Spain.

Lower in the valley, sheepfolds and houses huddle around the astonishing Romanesque chapels, and on the shores of the sparkling Génos-Loudenvielle lake, the largest mountain spa center warms young and old.

Do: get it

right.

Armed with a harmless laser rifle, pedestrians complete a short sporting course before having to “clear” 5 targets.

Activity offered from 8 years old.

The right address:

L'Ancienne Poste Avajan.

This pretty bed and breakfast built in 1864 was the post house for the small village of Avajan nestled in the valley.

Winter evenings are best spent near the fire in the large private lounge for some and in the "teen" room with video games for others.

Phone.

: 06 09 49 73 80.

CONVENIENT

Tourist office:

(Tel .: 05 62 99 99 00);

www.station-vallouron.fr

Day

alpine ski pass price

: adult € 29.90;

child 23 €.

Balnéa Center:

just 8 km from the resort, the Balnéa thermoludic center is usually a great added value to the destination.

Several indoor and outdoor pools in which children are accepted from 9 months old.

balnea.fr (currently closed.)

Read also: Ski touring in the Pyrenees: from Font-Romeu to Hautacam, our selection of routes

Praz de Lys Sommand, Chablais massif (Haute-Savoie)

The Praz de Lys pedestrian tracks with a view of Mont Blanc.

Photo Boiler

Altitude:

1250 - 2000 meters.

Alpine skiing:

52 slopes;

23 ski lifts.

Nordic skiing:

50 kilometers.

The 2 plateaus, Praz de Lys and Sommand, are perched at an altitude of 1,500 meters above the villages of Taninges and Mieussy (Haute-Savoie).

This very complementary set, connected by Eco-shuttles, caters to families thirsty for large spaces and playgrounds in the heart of nature but at reasonable prices.

On each plateau, beginners' areas with covered conveyor belts cope with apprentice skiers and, on the heights, the beautiful slopes of the two sectors meet as they wind through the pines.

The area allows you to follow the sun and admire in turn the chain of Mont Blanc, Aravis and Jura!

Already invested in a multi-activity and eco-responsible approach, the range of means of getting around is vast: tobogganing, cross-country skiing, sled dogs, snowshoes, fat bikes… Also note the 30 kilometers of groomed footpaths.

Do:

think of yourself as an Inuit.

Go snowshoeing with a guide for a short hike then start building the igloo which will be the shelter for the night!

To live with the family, from 9 years old.

The right address:

Les Soldanelles.

This family residence with 31 apartments (for 2 to 10 people) is located on the Praz de Lys side.

Ideal for families, it offers direct access to the beginners sector as well as to cross-country ski trails.

CONVENIENT

Tourist Office

 : (Tel .: 04 50 34 25 05);

prazdelys-sommand.com

The “Grandeur Nature Praz de Lys Sommand” application available on Apple Store and Android, references the sites and itineraries not to be missed!

Nordic ski

day rate: adult € 9;

child € 4.70.

Alpine ski

day rate: adult € 30;

child 24 €.

Beginners'

ski areas: Sommand 13 €;

Praz de Lys € 17.

Igloo hike

 : adult € 90;

child € 70;

ambiancemontagne74.com.

Phone.

: 06 19 69 44 46.