You can go to Crete for many reasons, although to really enjoy it the ideal is not to limit yourself to the typical stop of Mediterranean cruises to see its Minoan palaces, which is what many visitors reduce their passage through this magnificent Greek island. The west can be a perfect immersion in the Cretan spirit: you can go to see the most beautiful city on the island, Chania, with its Venetian quarter, or to enjoy a nature presided over by the mountains where the heart (geological and sentimental) of Crete is hidden, with villages where time has stopped.
Crete also deserves a break the shimmering waters and pristine beaches of the south coast, with charismatic populations such as Paleochora and Sougia and quiet sandy areas, closer to Africa than to Europe, such as those on the island of Gavdos. There are many reasons to visit it, but the main attraction is, without a doubt, to know Chania, the most evocative city of Crete.
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Chania, between Venice and Turkey
Most recognize that Chania (also called Chania) is the most evocative city of Crete, even though this means that there are thousands of tourists in summer strolling through the old quarter. It was the seat on the island of the Venetian, Turkish and, finally, Cretan governments, and all this can be seen in its many Venetian and Ottoman buildings, some converted into beautiful restaurants and boutique hotels.It is one of those cities that invite you to simply wander through its narrow streets, among pastel-colored buildings, shops and taverns, with the possibility of encountering surprises such as an old synagogue or a hidden church. The oldest area is dominated by the dome of the Kioutsouk Hassan mosque, today an exhibition hall. At the base of the Venetian fortress of Firkas, at the western entrance to the port, the Maritime Museum of Crete recounts the island's marine tradition.
Information in Lonely Planet's new Crete guide and lonelyplanet.es.
But the most striking thing about Chania is its Venetian port, with museums installed in old buildings and a long breakwater that goes into the sea and is enjoyed, above all, at sunset – watching the sunset in its lighthouse (from the sixteenth century) is another magnificent experience. Surrounding the port, you reach the restored Great Arsenal, which houses the Center for Mediterranean Architecture, and beyond a Ferris wheel in a state of decrepitude: these are the Venetian shipyards, a historical treasure hidden in plain sight.
View of the Venetian port of Chania on the island of Crete.Gatsi (Getty Images/iStockphoto)
One of the most curious visits is the synagogue of Etz Hayyim, the only one left in Crete, which was destroyed in World War II and did not reopen until 1999. Today it serves a small congregation and an exhibition narrates the tragedy of the last Jews on the island.
Local dishes with sea views
Chania are also home to some of the best restaurants on the island to sample Cretan cuisine. Due to its busy past, the fusion of influences makes its gastronomy something spectacular, from cheeses to preserves and extra virgin olive oil. Just go to the Agora, its famous covered market, ideal for stocking up for a picnic.
Cretans especially like the Drandaki Bakery, where a wood-fired oven is still smoking. Throughout the day they bring out different breads that are sold as doughnuts. During the visit, you may see the workshop in action. To discover the large local pantry, there's nothing like going to the Minoos Saturday Market, at the eastern end of the Old Town, where vendors offer the best of Crete. Another option is Terra Verde, a small shop in the center specializing in local organic products, such as cheeses from small producers in the mountains.
Almost everything used in To Stachi restaurant to make its delicious vegan and vegetarian dishes comes from the farm of Stelios Michelakis and his family. Stelios arrives every day at 5.00 to start preparing his wonderful wholemeal bread.
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Those in the know go to the trendy mezedopoleio (tapas place) To Maridaki, usually crowded, or to the Kouzina EPE, an elegant café where they serve modern and daily dishes advertised on a blackboard. For fish, the Thalassino Ageri is a delicious tavern among the remains of the tanneries of Chania, with a very fresh fish and delicious mezes. The taverns of Kalderimi, with a certain creative touch, are also very popular; the Apostolis, on the eastern side of the port, quieter and best for fish and seafood; or the Chrisostomos, away from the noise, behind the port, and with a classic cuisine much appreciated by residents and visitors.
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Visiting the surroundings
Chania is, above all, a place from which to get to know an area of Crete that brings together almost everything one imagines this island to be: ancient ruins, typical villages, monasteries, extraordinary views and hidden beaches. Very close to the city is the Akrotiri peninsula, a barren mountain area, full of bushes and rocks, in addition to the airport and also two monasteries. And further east, the Apokoronas region is packed with villages and possible excursions, such as the hike to the restored village of Vamos. And further west is the arid and rocky Rhodopou Peninsula, which must be accessed with an all-terrain vehicle and some cunning to find remote beaches and important ruins.
The easiest thing is to go to the villages of Akrotiri, where you can enjoy the timeless Cretan life, as if the XXI century had not yet arrived. Life also runs in the old way in Vamos, a charming village of the twelfth century, where many buildings have been restored and you can walk among handicrafts and products of the region. In its main square you can buy local raki, aromatic herbs, organic olive oil and other typical products; And in the cafes, whose tables invade the street, regular customers do not leave their favorite chairs.
Bathers on the beach of Seitan Limania, on the Akrotiri peninsula (Crete). Roberto Moiola / Sysaworld (Getty Images)
Those who want beaches, all over the Akrotiri peninsula will find sandy coves, such as Marathi Beach, beautiful, with two sandy coves and turquoise waters on both sides of a small pier. On the secret beach of Seitan Limania the incredible waters more than reward the really intricate journey that must be made to go down to it. But the most famous, without a doubt, is the cove of Stavros, almost at the northern end of the peninsula, presided over by a gigantic rock. It will sound to us because it is the dance floor of the last scene of the mythical film Zorba the Greek (1964).
Just 30 minutes by car from Chania, another of the best reasons to visit the Akrotiri peninsula awaits you: the impressive and beautiful Moni Agias Triada, from the seventeenth century: it is an active monastery, with a library lady, a magnificent altarpiece, a façade of Venetian influence and domes, icons of the Cretan school and gardens full of flowers.
The monastery of Agias Triada, from the seventeenth century, in Crete (Greece). Alamy Stock Photo
In the south of the island
Hora Sfakion is a place of just fame in Cretan history for its fight against foreign occupiers of all times, although today it welcomes with all sympathy the tourists who come. He played an important role in the Greek War of Independence and World War II. Today it has become a place of passage for those who go to the south of the island to tour the Samaria Gorge, one of the great attractions of the area, and there are not many who decide to take a walk around the town. The semicircle of cafes on the port allows you to see all the hustle and bustle of the boats that moor or sail to destinations along the coast.
The beautiful beach of Glyka Nera is enough excuse to get here: it is located in a sheltered cove and never gets too crowded. You can go by ferry or on foot along a dizzying 3.5-kilometer coastal path. A small café rents umbrellas and sun loungers. If you don't have much time, Vrissi Beach is next to the port of Hora Sfakion.
Also a few kilometers away, along a very steep and winding road you reach Anópolis, a quiet village with a monument to the resistance fighters presiding over the main square. You can breathe the typical Cretan village life, which is also pleasant to enjoy and much better with a kid roasted on wood in one of its taverns, one of the typical dishes in Crete. And just beyond, another attraction for travelers is the abandoned stone village of Aradena, which is famous for the Vardinogiannis bridge, which saves the Aradena gorge. Looking into the depths from the rattling structure under the wheels terrifies and fascinates at the same time. You may see someone jumping off the bridge, the highest bungee jump in Greece (138 meters).
View of the small fishing village of Loutro (Crete). Vladimirs_Gorelovs (Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Beyond the port of Hora Sfakion many adventures await, both along the coast and through the steep interior. In the mountainous province of Sfakia are some of the most spectacular sites on the island, such as the mountains of Léfka Óri and Mount Gingilos (2,080 meters). The drive to Hora Sfakion is unforgettable, along a winding mountain road with intermittent views of the sea. From there you can make small road trips (for example, to the fortifications of Frangokastello), scenic ferry trips or walks to Loutro (a village without cars). The tiny fishing village of Loutro is, except in summer, a quiet crescent of flower-filled white and blue buildings surrounding a narrow pebble beach between Agia Roumeli and Hora Sfakion (30 minutes by ferry). It does not have road access, which should guarantee tranquility (at least when it is not high season). From here, in just 10 minutes walk you reach the church of Sotiros Christou, which overlooks the sea from its otero. From there, the fittest can climb to the remains of a Venetian castle.
Another of the star excursions is the Imbros Gorge Tour, a simple day trip from Hora Sfakion. Although often compared to the famous Samaria Gorge, Imbros has its own merits. Although its eight kilometers are just under half of that of Samaria, it is a wonder on a natural level and, also important, there are much fewer people.
The southernmost point of Europe: Gavdos
The ferries that run along the south coast are very practical, but also very pleasant to make a different trip. Much of the coast is uninhabited and has an inhospitable beauty, with multicolored cliffs and the occasional isolated beach of idyllic appearance. Of course, traveling by boat along the coast requires patience and understanding. It is difficult to understand the schedules and they are not always punctual.
A sunset next to the lighthouse on the island of Gavdos (Greece). Alamy Stock Photo
In the Libyan Sea, 45 kilometers from Hora Sfakion by ferry, the island of Gavdos is the southernmost point of non-continental Europe. It is said to be the home of the legendary Calypso, from Homer's Odyssey, where the nymph held Odysseus for years. It's a marvel with only a handful of accommodations, taverns and idyllic beaches, many accessible only on foot or by boat. There is not much to do except swim, walk and relax. It is a surprisingly green island, 65% covered with pines, cedars and other species. Almost all electricity comes from generators, which are usually turned off at night and in the middle of the day. Disconnection is assured.
A stop in Sougia
Affordable accommodations, good food, markets and trails that lead to almost secret places, all that, in addition to its long beach, make Sougia a good travel alternative. It is one of the quietest coastal towns in southern Crete, happily undeveloped. Next to the sandy and pebble beach where hammocks are rented runs a promenade in the shade of tamarisk, with quiet cafes and taverns. Here, in addition to lying on the long beach, you can reach the impressive ruins of Lisos by the long coastal path.
A ferry on arrival in the coastal town of Sougia (Crete). Alamy Stock Photo
Despite its small size, it also has very good restaurants and taverns that sometimes offer concerts. Almost all of them are beachfront. Like To Tzitziki, with a rich and varied menu, or like Omikron, where chef Jean-Luc Delfosse offers a pleasant change to the typical Greek taverns. And to taste the mountain cuisine prepared with wood you can try in Rebetiko Taverna, behind the beach.
As in almost all villages in southern Crete, from Sougia you can do many walks. The most popular is the one that goes to the site of Lisos, 3.5 kilometers away (although much of the trail runs away from the coast). Also from Sougia, but to the east, a strenuous but fantastic hike, 11 kilometers round trip, leads to the lonely chapel of Agios Antonios, in an uninhabited bay. In addition to the small pink-hued church that could well be the set of a movie, the water is cool because it is fed springs. This is one of the wildest stretches of the south coast.
The Samaria Gorge and other extraordinary canyons
The great attraction of the southern coast of Crete is the Samaria Gorge, one of the geological wonders of Europe. From idyllic Sougia, the extraordinary Samaria Gorge National Park and other mountain wonders such as the canyon itself are easily reachable by a spectacular route.
The hike through the famous gorge can take a whole day, but it's one of Greece's best outdoor adventures: a spectacular furrow in the mountains that descends to the coast. At its base, the small village of Agia Roumeli is, in addition to a ferry stop, a good place to visit. From there there is an excellent hike along the pristine coast to Loutro. And in the mountains, the villages smell of orange blossom and other Mediterranean crops.
One of the narrowest stretches of the Samaria Gorge, on the Greek island of Crete.Alamy Stock Photo
The Samaria Gorge, the longest in Europe, begins at the foot of the Omalos plateau and has been carved by the river that flows between the peaks of the Avlimanakou (1,858 meters) and Volakias (2,115) mountains. Its width ranges from three to 150 meters and its vertical walls can reach 500 meters high. Despite its popularity, touring it is an unforgettable experience, which should not be done in too much heat. The best way to discover it is to travel in its entirety (18 kilometres), from the beginning, in the village of Xyloskalo, to the end, in Agia. The first part is a steep and winding road that descends 600 meters to the canyon. Then it continues until it reaches the simple chapel of Agios Nikolaos, among cypresses, and then opens on a wide and open road for six kilometers to the abandoned village of Samaria, whose inhabitants were relocated when the place became a national park. This is the most important resting point.
From that moment on, the throat narrows again and becomes more spectacular. At 11 kilometers from the start the distance between the walls is reduced to 3.5 meters and you reach the famous Sideroportes (iron gates), from where a rickety wooden walkway allows hikers to cross 20 meters above water. The national park ends at kilometer 13, north of the semi-abandoned village of Palea (old) Agia Roumeli, three kilometers from the sea. At all times you have to be attentive in case you see a kri-kri or a mountain goat, and to enjoy the wildflowers. Most people pass through Agia Roumeli after having traveled through the Samaria Gorge, waiting for the ferry. But the village, accessible only by boat or on foot, deserves more than a short visit and in addition to the cafes there are good taverns to recover from the effort.
Paleochora: quiet roads that hide surprises
You can still breathe a certain sixties air in Paleochora, discovered by hippies in the sixties and seventies. It is still an attractive, quiet and picturesque place. The town is on a narrow peninsula, with a long beach shaded by tamarinds, though its most picturesque part is the maze of alleyways around the castle. In summer, the main street and the road to the beach are closed to traffic and taverns invade the sidewalks and everything is filled with Cretan music and cultural events. At night also many taverns set up tables along the beach of Halikia, in a brutal competition because here are some of the best restaurants in the area.
Colorful terraces on a street in downtown Paleochora.Alamy Stock Photo
Paleochora is a good base from which to explore some of the most beautiful side roads in Crete and visit one of its natural wonders, Elafonisi beach, one of the most magical corners of the Mediterranean. The narrow roads run through spectacular ravines full of olive trees, where the passage of time seems a strange concept. In the mountains of Paleochora are the most beautiful and least visited villages of western Crete. The so-called Innahorion. This green and quiet area is famous for its chestnuts and olives, so do not miss the opportunity to buy olive oil, honey, dried herbs or raki. The coastal road from Kefali to Sfinari is one of the prettiest on the island: it winds along the cliffs and the views improve at every bend. Like the village of Azogires and its valley, scene of legends related to the nymphs of the waterfalls and the medieval ascetics who lived in caves. Or a little further away, Elos, the main town in the region, with a larger beach surrounded by the shade of plane trees, eucalyptus and chestnut trees. Or Kefali, with its church with frescoes of the fourteenth century and magnificent views.
To the north, the coastal villages are located in incredible places, between mountains and ravines: those who dare can try to reach the village of Pappadiana, the village of Kambos, on the edge of a gorge or the agricultural and quiet village of Sfinari, which does not lack a long beach of gray stones and several fish taverns next to it.
Falasarna and its dazzling sunsets
Crete's best sunsets dazzle with millions of reddish highlights in Falasarna, a growing resort town with a long and popular beach. This wide stretch of cream-colored sand is considered one of the best on the island and is known for its crystal clear waters, gentle surf and water sports. You can spread your towel on the large beach (Megali Paralia) at the southern end or go to one of the northern coves, separated by rocks.
But in addition to its beaches, Falasarna is famous for the ruins of a city-state that was a commercial center in the fourth century BC, with its own port. Strolling through the excavations and seeing the latest discoveries is like opening a window into Roman times. Although the ancient Falasarna was built by the sea, today its ruins are about 400 meters inland, due to geological changes since then. Every year, archaeologists discover more elements of ancient Falasarna: a stone throne, remains of the wall that protected the city or what remains of its small port. The holes carved in the wall were used to tie the boats. Other finds include towers, a public thoroughfare, water reservoirs and a wine press.
Tour groups visit the Venetian fort on the islet of Imeri Gramvousa.Krivinis (Getty Images/iStockphoto)
Mass tourism has not yet arrived in the northwest of Crete, and those who dare to reach the unpopulated peninsula of Gramvousa find one of the icon-images of Crete: that of Balos beach and the islet of Imeri Gramvousa and its Venetian fortress. Balos is spectacular and as such appears in all tourism campaigns in Crete, but the grace is that it can only be reached by off-road or on a crowded boat trip. The beach, which looks like a lagoon, is beautiful. Its shallow turquoise waters are a powerful magnet in summer. However, when the tide goes out, the wind blows or it gets full of newly disembarked people, it can be very disappointing. The island of Imeri Gramvousa is an important stop for tourist boats. The Venetians, who considered its location strategic, built a fortress that, armed to the teeth, remained in the hands of the Venetians until the Turks conquered it in 1691. In 1821 it fell into the hands of Cretan rebels, who resorted to piracy when the Turks isolated them from the rest of the islands during the War of Independence. Legend has it that those corsairs amassed a great fortune that they hid in the caves of the island. Will it still be there?
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