Dolce & Gabbana strikes a very big blow: Jeff Bezos, the founder of Amazon, his gaze hidden behind sunglasses, does not miss a crumb of the show. And what a sight! The duo delivers an elegant collection, almost entirely black. Large trench coats, fur coats, trousers cut as they should be, tuxedos, shoes adorned with organza flowers, baroque blouses straight out of a Visconti film... Chic and desirable. "Our approach this season is to focus on the beauty of the handmade, on the traditional elegance," Domenico Dolce told the press. This collection is based on our almost obsessive knowledge of the rules of tailoring. Since the 1980s and their beginnings, they have cultivated this mastery and perfected their know-how. For next winter, the duo is going back to basics, to those perfectly cut suits, that sleek palette and to those coats tailored like no other. "We think that even young people are fed up with logos, sportswear," adds Stefano Gabbana. The celebrities we dress, for example, are asking us for more and more costumes. A nice jacket, a nice overcoat, it gives you a presence, an outfit. But it's all in the construction, which has to be perfect. » Double-breasted, tied with a satin ribbon, with a short jacket or simple waistcoat, in short velvet or wool, worn over a white shirt or a tank top, this suit in all its states seduces. Applause provided.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection. Dolce & Gabbana
"Inspiration this season is not inspiration," says Silvia Venturini Fendi backstage. And the journalists look worried... Yet, phew, his version of next winter's Fendi man has no shortage of them! "I approach things differently, looking for a form of continuity with my previous collections, to create a classic yet contemporary man." This time, the loden, hunting jacket, rain boots and velvet trousers are revisited with a Fendi twist, evoking the British countryside more than the Eternal City, where the house was born. "I still had someone in mind when I was working on this collection, a woman: Princess Anne was on my moodboard.
»Fendi Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection. LORENZO SCACCINI
What makes La Romaine's creations unique is the way she treats the great classics to give them a new lease of life, but above all her mastery of techniques that no other house can offer. Carving a loden into shearling, transforming the corduroy collar of the traditional Barbour into shearling, for example, we had to think about it... "I also like to play with perceptions," says the designer, pointing to a sublime bomber jacket. You'd think it's fur, since that's our specialty, but it's actually denim and mohair." Or the Siesta, a new bag that takes the shape of a pillow or a Boston according to different sets of attachments. Well done!
A huge lighthouse has been installed in the theatre of Via Bergognone, the eternal setting for the Emporio Armani fashion shows.We'd like to spare you the metaphor of the "Maestro" who would be a "beacon in the night", but since the beginning of the season, his influence has been widely cited, especially by young prominent designers such as Magliano (who presented in Florence) or Jerry Lorenzo, from Fear of God... Here, next winter is a celebration of the Armani spirit. The show opened with Loredana's hit Berte Mare d'Inverno (1983) with sailors in double-breasted overcoats, loose trousers, zipped jackets with large collars, and an exquisite double-breasted suit, worn with large leather gloves and boots. The rest (115 looks all the same) is a mix of everything that made Giorgio Armani the most influential designer in men's fashion. Suits in shades of beige and light grey, then black embellished with crystals, duffle coats and long leather overcoats of an incredible thickness, large coats in wool or in a kind of faded chambray... At almost 90 years old, the "Maestro" has lost none of his superbness.
Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection. Emporio Armani
Friday night is the event for fans of the cult brand Stone Island. Founded by Massimo Osti in 1982, the company was recently acquired by Remo Ruffini and Moncler. It made its debut on the Milan Fashion Week calendar this weekend, with what was thought to be a first show. But when we arrive on site, we find a staging evoking the spectacular events of the down jacket brand born in Monestier-de-Clermont... A metal structure, motionless mannequins, and a play of lights not recommended to epileptics... No fashion show, then, and that's a shame, because it's hard to see the product in this staging. Which is however the heart of the brand's purpose, which has no equivalent in terms of experimentation, offering innovative fabrics, materials that change color in contact with heat, inventive cuts...