Panama, the youngest nation in Latin America, a double umbilical cord that unites Central and North America with South America, and the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific, is a small country of enormous contrasts and great and very diverse tourist attractions.
Like small floating corks in the immense bay, countless gigantic merchant ships wait their turn in front of the Channel to change oceans;
the city outlines its imposing profile of skyscrapers against a stormy sky;
We are about to land in Panama.
Over the next few days we will visit popular destinations in the country and also discover unexpected and remote places.
Let's start with the capital.
The old town of Panama and Panama Viejo are the same city, but they are not the same.
Let's go from the present to the past.
Panama City is today a large city of tight, high skyscrapers.
The Latin Manhattan or the Hispanic American Hong Kong;
an important financial center and a modern, cosmopolitan and multiracial metropolis, with a great cultural offer, among which the Biomuseo stands out, a museum of natural history, biodiversity and Panamanian culture, designed by architect Frank Gehry.
Its leisure and gastronomy offer is equally interesting and varied: from being able to enjoy nature in the nearby Metropolitan National Park, hiking, bird watching or enjoying incomparable views of the
city
skyline
, to being able to taste the best modern cuisine. Panamanian in Maito or taste any specialty of the country's traditional gastronomy, while one delights in its folklore, in Sabroso Panamá (ask about its owner, Daniela Melani, knowing her is worth it).
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Sailing by boat through Bocas del Toro, the Panamanian Caribbean
Exterior of the Biomuseo in Panama City, a project by Frank Gehry.David Coleman (Have Camera Will
The old town is the colonial city that was built after the pirate Henry Morgan destroyed, in 1671, the primitive capital of Panama (today Panama Viejo).
Recognized as a Unesco world heritage site since 1997, it constitutes a clear example of an Indian population in urban planning as it is designed in a reticular shape - oriented towards the four cardinal points - and has the classic Spanish Plaza Mayor as its centre.
As it suffered repeated fires over time, its current configuration dates back to the end of the 19th century and preserves colonial, neoclassical,
art deco
buildings ... The old town of Panama has been gradually and accurately restored, inviting the visitor to stroll through it quietly, enjoying its monuments and lively gastronomic and commercial offer.
The Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Independencia or, popularly, Plaza Catedral, has always been the epicenter of the old town and a historical witness of great national events, such as independence from Spain in 1821 and the separation of Colombia in 1913. Here there are two emblematic buildings: the Santa María La Antigua cathedral basilica, with notable packaging and a clear baroque-colonial style, and the Central Hotel Panamá —the first in the country—, which throughout its 150 years of life accommodated great travelers and personalities, like Theodore Roosevelt.
Other interesting places and monuments in the old town are Plaza Simón Bolívar, Plaza Herrera, the Church of La Merced, that of San José - famous for its legendary Golden Altar, a notable baroque altarpiece covered in gold leaf -, the Oratory of San Felipe Neri, the church of San Francisco de Asís, the ruins of the convent of Santo Domingo and the convent of the Company of Jesus - which housed the first Panamanian university.
Among the official and civil buildings, the Bolívar Palace, the Palacio de las Garzas - headquarters of the Presidency of the Republic -, the National Theater, the Góngora House - one of the oldest in the country -, the Boyacá House, Heurtematte Houses, Calvo Mansion, the Art Deco House…
The Central Hotel Panamá, the first in the country, in front of the Plaza de la Independencia, in the old town of the Panamanian capital.Bogdan Lazar (Alamy / Cordon Pre
In the old town there are accommodations and tables for all types of budgets.
Among the hotels and restaurants to highlight, in addition to the one already mentioned with its wonderful Central Bistro, one of the latest and most notable establishments is recommended: the La Compañía hotel, built with exquisite taste and historical respect in the same place it once occupied. the old Jesuit convent;
preserving architectural and archaeological remains from different periods, and creating as many residential wings and themed restaurants in relation to the aesthetics and cuisine of the different countries that had a presence or historical influence in Panama (Spain, France and the United States).
Even if you are not going to sleep or eat, it is advisable to visit it.
Another great and brand new hotel is the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo, located in a privileged location on the edge of the Pacific and with unbeatable views of the
Panama City
skyline .
Good restaurants to enjoy Panamanian cuisine and have a drink in the old town are also Casablanca and Lo que hay.
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Finally, let's talk about the first thing, Panama Viejo, the name given today to the archaeological site that preserves the ruins of the original site of the first city of Panama, the one founded by Pedrarias Dávila in 1519 and destroyed by the English pirate Morgan.
In its heyday it was the place where gold from Peru arrived, which after crossing the isthmus and changing oceans, was sent to Spain.
Among its ruins it preserves the old tower of the old church-cathedral.
The large area occupied by the remains of primitive Panama is undoubtedly worth a visit.
The ruins of the church of the Company of Jesus, in Panama Viejo.Leonid Andronov (Getty Images)
Colonial fortresses and Caribbean beaches
“In a single day I counted 200 mules loaded with silver and gold… piles of silver ingots piled up like stones in the streets… In a few days everything was loaded into a fleet of eight galleons and ten merchant ships.”
This is how the English clergyman Thomas Gage described in 1637 the incredible spectacle that he witnessed in the streets of Portobelo.
Years before, Bartolomé de las Casas had written something similar, referring to the enormous movement of precious metals that took place in the port of Nombre de Dios: “From there they embarked for Spain, coming from Peru, the never seen, nor heard, nor even dreamed of, enormous amount of gold.”
For almost three centuries, the Camino Real and the Camino de Cruces, which linked the old city of Panama - in the Pacific - with the Caribbean, were in colonial times the routes along which the most wealth traveled in the world.
The one known as the South Sea Navy, created by the Spanish Crown, was in charge of protecting the enormous quantities of gold, silver and precious stones that, coming from the viceroyalty of Peru, regularly arrived in Panama Viejo.
From there, the immense treasures continued their journey until reaching the ports of Nombre de Dios, first, and then Portobelo, on the Atlantic coast;
places from which the Indies Fleet finally delivered the precious shipments to Spain.
To protect the circulation of so much treasure from greedy English piracy, Spain built different fortifications at key points on the trade routes that crossed the isthmus.
One of them was Portobelo, located on top of a high cliff overlooking the mouth of the Chagres River in the Caribbean.
The stronghold, ordered to be built by Philip II, was designed by the expert engineer Bautista Antonelli.
Over the centuries the place suffered different attacks by privateers and British sailors (Francis Drake, in 1596; Henry Morgan, in 1671; Edward Vernon, in 1740).
The obligatory visit will allow the traveler to enjoy spectacular views of the jungle, the river and the ocean, as well as see a magnificent example of military defensive architecture.
From Panama Viejo, on the Pacific, to the Atlantic or Caribbean ports, the two aforementioned routes could be followed in colonial times: one by land (Camino Real) and the other by land, river and sea (Camino de Cruces).
Both drove to the city of Nombre de Dios and, later, to Portobelo.
As the city of Portobelo had better conditions than Nombre de Dios to organize the defense of the enclave, with the passage of time all commercial activity focused on the former.
For this reason, Portobelo preserves remains of several fortifications that protected its bay and its natural port, the most important being the San Jerónimo fort, the San Fernando fort and the Santiago fort.
All these defensive enclosures, unlike that of San Lorenzo, are still awaiting their well-deserved restoration.
However, at sunset, its old ashlars—many of them made of coral stone—and the many cannons scattered along its walls ensure a very stimulating and evocative experience.
The fortifications of Portobelo have also been declared a UNESCO heritage site since 1980.
The San Jerónimo fort, in the Panamanian city of Portobelo, is part of the UNESCO world heritage list.MarcPo (Getty Images)
The one that has recently been restored is the splendid and historic Renaissance building of the Royal Customs, built in 1630, and once the headquarters of the control of colonial transoceanic trade.
The church of San Felipe, which houses the famous and venerated Black Christ of Portobelo, is another obligatory stop.
Wandering around the city and adding some fantasy, one can imagine the frenetic and chaotic hustle and bustle that the city would experience in the month or month and a half that the fair lasted after the Fleet of the Indies arrived with products from the Peninsula, and arrived from Panama Viejo. to the gigantic train of mules loaded with all kinds of riches and exotic merchandise.
If you stop for a drink, a good place to eat, and with a magnificent terrace facing the sea, is El Castillo.
And to stay, without a doubt, Casa Congo, where you also eat wonderfully.
The surroundings of Portobelo offer plenty of opportunities to go hiking in the nearby natural parks or enjoy the paradisiacal waters and Caribbean corners spread throughout the area's coastline.
A good plan could be to travel by boat along the coast towards Isla Grande, where you will spend the night at the Candy Rose Hotel or at the Bananas Village.
But before, and throughout the day, you should try to get the most out of the day, sailing through mangroves, taking a dip, sunbathing or snorkeling in one of the many coves or water spots that are found along the route.
It's a good idea to eat in the small coastal town of Cacique;
There you can choose between several places, although having some shrimp and fried fish with plantains at Margarita's small Caribbean restaurant will not disappoint.
She does it all: she cooks, she serves the four tables that she has and she will give away everything that she personally loved.
Aerial view of the Panamanian city of Portobelo.MarcPo (iStockphoto / Getty Imag
Tropical jungles and lost paradises
Getting to Playa Muerto is not easy or quick.
First, from Panama City you have to drive five or six hours on not very good roads, and then, from Puerto Quimba, three more hours by speedboat along the Iglesia River, along the Pacific coast until you finally reach at the northeastern end of the Darién National Park – Biosphere Reserve and world heritage site – where in a remote place, which can only be accessed by sea, there is a small lost paradise that is hard to believe.
And a town of people of the Embera ethnic group with a way of life so in harmony and close relationship with nature that they seem from another time.
A naturally conservationist indigenous community;
Jealous of preserving its cultural identity, its traditions, its environment and, in addition, of a striking affability, it is not in vain that Emberá means “good man.”
Secluded from the world, on the edge of the jungle and a wild, paradisiacal beach full of palm trees, 200 members of this peculiar human group live in their stilt houses, growing everything they need (banana, cassava, rice, corn, coffee...) and fishing everything they need, either at the mouth of the Jesús River or in the South Sea that Vasco Núñez de Balboa spotted not far from there.
The Emberá have their own language, they adorn themselves and paint their bodies colorfully and, although they are no strangers to certain advances and comforts of modern society, they persevere in keeping their ancestral rites and customs alive.
Women, for example, usually go with their breasts in the air, cook directly over the wood fire and serve food and drinks in bowls and containers obtained from the hardened and carved shell of the gourd (a type of large fruit similar to the coconut).
Members of the Embera ethnic group.Cindy Hopkin (Alamy)
Playa Muerto is a perfect destination for those travelers eager to live experiences in intimate contact with the most intact and exuberant nature;
sleeping, eating and living as the natives of the place do.
Nowadays, the few visitors who venture to get here are either passengers on a small cruise ship who reach the beach by zodiac and spend time with the aboriginal community, or small groups that enter the jungle to explore it and take routes of various kinds. days inside, based on the Embera town.
Practicing in these privileged environments
trekking, hiking
, bird watching (especially the emblematic harpy eagle), locating tracks or specimens of jaguar, puma... is possible, but there are very few local organizations that offer it;
Among the most professional and recommended are Ecotour Darien and Dynamo Travel.
Their respective managers, Erasmo de León and Gustavo Zevallos, in addition to being the most authorized people in the area to introduce you and make you enjoy the flora and fauna of the practically virgin Darién ecosystem, are helping the native population of Playa Muerto—along with the Panama Tourism Authority—to maintain their culture by providing them with the necessary resources, and creating the appropriate opportunities so that their community can enjoy sustainable development.
Added to all this is that, at the appropriate time, in Playa Muerto, you can also see whales and the laying of eggs of several species of turtles.
And, of course, the Canal
According to Jerónimo Welchs, an expert guide for the main Panamanian tour operator —Aventuras 2000—, no one who visits Panama should leave the country without visiting the Canal.
It was Emperor Charles V who, in 1534, was the first to study the possibility of building a canal in Panama that would link the Atlantic with the Pacific through the narrowest part (82 kilometers) of the Panamanian isthmus.
But we had to wait until 1880 for the French engineer Ferdinand de Lesseps to try to carry out the project.
After more than eight years, and 20,000 workers died, the works were suspended until they were resumed by the United States, which completed the canal in 1914. Since then, it has continued and continues to operate normally;
Although to allow larger ships to also cross it, in 2006 it was decided to practically create a second canal, with new wider, longer and deeper locks, which were inaugurated in 2016. Today the Panama Canal continues to be one of the main sources of income for the country (6.8% of GDP), representing 6% of the world's commercial transport.
View of the Panama Canal from the Agua Clara Visitor Center.Mabelin Santos (Alamy / Cordon P
This impressive work of modern engineering, and also the maneuver of a large cargo ship from Gatun Lake to the Atlantic Ocean, can be seen from the Agua Clara Visitor Center, where you can also enjoy an illustrative audiovisual production that gives to know all kinds of details about the place: history, function of the artificial lake Gatún, biodiversity of the environment, operation of the locks, number and types of boats that cross per day, prices paid... Closer to Panama City it is also It is possible to learn everything about the Canal—from the Pacific side—at the Miraflores Visitor Center.
As, among other things, the country's tourist slogan tries to convey, in Panama there are many things to experience;
those we have told and many others to discover: “Panama lives for more.”
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