At London Fashion Week, the most memorable designs were not radical designs by young designers or ultra-streetwear streetwear. But tulle dresses, lace blouses and bloated skirts. These fabric mountains have been shown by Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard. Both designers have long been using materials and silhouettes that are actually considered feminine, girly, and playful - but this time around, they broke with all connotations so strikingly that the word "cute" did not stick to the mood board.
Self-confidence to dress meant earlier: Not too much Chichi. Instead straight lines, squared shoulders and everything that could have been just as good in the men's department. Rocha and Goddard let it go, but reinterpreted it: pitch-black flounces, dark denim flowers, spiky hair bands. The designs showed that clothes do not have to be put in drawers just because a pattern is embroidered on them or ruffles are attached.
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London Fashion Week: More is moreDesigns like cupcakes
Given their size, Goddard's designs would not fit in a drawer anyway. Since founding her label in 2014, the British designer has experimented with volume and everything that makes clothes look like cupcakes - pastel colors, bows, ruffles and ruffles. Considered one of the greatest talents in the British capital, it was awarded a prestigious newcomer prize last year by the British Fashion Council. This season, the technique behind the characteristics of their label should finally be perfected, the skirts stand alone, without scaffolding underneath. "I've dealt with my master collection, which was a disaster back then, and reissued ideas," she told British Vogue.
New edition also means: Made a lot darker. Instead of sherbet colors, the models wore a lot of black, plus dark lipstick, strong eyebrows, and hair combed tight to the back. So Goddard managed to load models with layers of fabric, without making the collection look overloaded. That's quite impressive, she uses up to 90 meters of tulle for her designs. Not only these masses made her clothes look almost threatening this time.
Tea service dresses and hay hair bands
What is Goddard tulle is for Rocha top. Her collection was inspired by the Irish Wrenboys, a tradition from the home of Mother Odette. The Irina comes from the region Offaly, in her childhood Rocha saw again and again boys, who on the second Christmas holiday in straw masks and straw robes from door to door and asked for singing and dancing for donations. With Rocha, sashes and throws were made out of it, and thanks to the nature of the material, they were always somewhat frayed. The hay queen as a daredevil heroine.
What the doors looked like behind the Wrenboys, Rocha also wanted to show. Transparent clothes with blue floral patterns opened the show, based on the porcelain style Delft blue, which stood in the closet at home. Rocha's interpretation, however, was far less fragile. But the hairbands with their long spines seemed too much like crowns of thorns, the black voluminous lace dresses too much like gothic robes and the models too idiosyncratic. For several seasons, the designer has seen women types falling out of the established model grid - not very young and very thin. This time the Irish actresses Olwen Fouéré and Valene Kane were running. The tea-service dresses and hay-hair-straps wore them with a similar casualness, formerly known as broad-shouldered suits and black sunglasses.
