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During the Milan fashion week, a topic dominated - or rather, a picture: At the end of the Versace show , Jennifer Lopez surprised in a green dress with a wide-cut green print . This was based on an almost identical design that Lopez had worn in 2000 at the Grammys. At that time, the show led to countless Google searches, this time it hailed posts on Instagram. Worth seeing was also the rest of the collection.
At first, Donatella Versace showed wide -shouldered blouses paired with black dresses and bustiers - so far, so skilful. Versace stands for this game of strength and sex appeal. It became more diffuse when the blazers were replaced by colorful rain jackets on tie-dyed tights , or speckled hoodies , which was called the "Gianni Versace".
The label seems to be in the balancing act between brand identity and trends . On the one hand there are Jennifer Lopez and design elements that exist since the eighties, on the other hand, as many current trends should be served. The combination works when the iconic moments of the label dictate the aesthetics. As proof, a look is enough in the social media.
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Milan Fashion Week: icons, classics and protestGucci also used the surprise effect - this was not about who or what appeared, but what was missing: pretty much everything . Actually, creative director Alessandro Michele put his collections together according to the motto "more is more". This time you only saw white at the beginning. The central element was the straitjacket - sometimes overly long, sometimes interpreted as overalls.
Not everyone liked this reference. The model Ayesha Tan Jones had written as a protest "Mental Health is not fashion" on the hands. Later, on Instagram, using straitjackets for a "fleeting fashion moment" was callous. Michele explained that he was particularly interested in the resonant concept of uniformity .
Perhaps because the Gucci aesthetic he established has meanwhile become a kind of uniform. How much, it became clear, as followed by the white looks of the main part of the show: It just needed a few oversized glasses on oversized link chains to recall the well-known Gucci. He wanted to break that, so reduction became an innovation . "I'm scared of being bored, I always have to try something new," he said after the show.
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Hugo Boss also longed for something new - at least for a new location for his own show. The German label has moved with its main line from New York to Milan, but the collection is still inspired by Manhattan. Creative Director Ingo Wilts had brought the idea behind his designs from a walk through the Hudson Yards. Expressed in fabric as well as a lot of leather , this means a color gamut from sand and cream to various blue shades to strong red and yellow . Carried tone on tone .
Boss means suits . But that does not have to be called slim fit business uniforms anymore. In Milan, wide and casual models were shown. Especially the pants are loose and fall soft. Double-breasted suit stays open now and the cummerbund to the tuxedo sits fashionably wrong. Long, slightly oversize-cut coats bring additional volume. This silhouette was similar to Boss in the early nineties. For the fresh impression provides material such as nylon.
Gridded suits are eye- catchers , but are unlikely to be among the bestsellers in this collection. Leather overalls and overalls are usually not the first choice in warm temperatures, simple wide summer dresses rather. They missed Wilts on the back a loose hanging shell element and thus a timely update.
Armani with zipper principle
Giorgio Armani is also known for perfectly tailored suits. In the current collection, the 85-year-old extends his main element with short jackets, organza blouses and parkas as well as flowing and slit skirts . Trousers showed Armani in close and further execution. One model had zippers on the front. If they are closed, the trouser leg loses its fullness.
The 78 looks vary in color between brown, various shades of blue and gray, black as well as soft pink and turquoise . For his patterns, Armani made use of Mother Nature, to whom he also dedicated the entire collection. Hence the name "earth". This was not meant as a political statement on the climate crisis or environmental protection. It was all about natural symbolism, such as banana tree leaves , orchids, dragonflies, and butterfly-embroidered butterflies. In the evening gowns, the collection lost its grounding and drifted off into the Supermundane : tulle ruffs, stoles and glitter . Nice to look at, but somehow over it too.
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