Tablecloth reloaded: lace dresses
Simone Rocha
Alexander McQueen
Lion
Anyone who considers lace as monotonous simply has to look at Loewe's new designs. Creative director Jonathan Anderson used it to decorate almost the entire collection - pants, skirts, dresses and collars. Simone Rocha, Erdem Moralioglu and Sarah Burton are also on top with Alexander McQueen. There were transparent black throws with white decorations, palazzo pants or maxi dresses made of lace and leather. While reminiscent of the romantic opulence of the Victorian era, this season also gets a bleak note.
Space: a lot of volume
Valentino
Dries Van Noten
Marc Jacobs
Valentino, Molly Goddard, Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten had a lot of volume and more fabric. Pierpaolo Piccioli took up his acclaimed Valentino Haute Couture and presented elaborately designed dresses in rich colors, ruffled and gathered. Likewise Molly Goddard, who is known for her sweeping tulle creations, but interpreted this darker than usual. Marc Jacobs was in a good mood to wear: valance-laden mini dresses that were almost as wide as they were long. And Dries Van Noten teamed up with Christian Lacroix, the master of opulence - no more pomp.
Pure nature: Floral patterns
Dior
Givenchy
Marques'Almeida
In the film "The Devil Wears Prada", editor-in-chief Miranda Priestly (great Meryl Streep) ironically called flower prints "groundbreaking" for spring. Nevertheless, the pattern can look surprising: Versace re-edited Jennifer Lopez's jungle gown, Dior took on forest-and-meadow aesthetics. Givenchy made maxi dresses flourish and Marques'Almeida was reminiscent of punk and grunge. It would be groundbreaking, of course, if nature were in the center of attention not only on, but also off the catwalk. But sustainability is still secondary to many labels at most.
Striking step: printed tights
Balenciaga
Fendi
Richard Quinn
Already a few seasons ago Balenciaga decorated tights with flames, setting suns or mountain villages - that looked extravagant at the time, but is now omnipresent. This time not only the French fashion house showed eye-catching legwear, but also labels like Marine Serre, Fendi or Richard Quinn. While the former mainly relied on the typical crescent motif for her, in Italy and the UK, floral motifs were on the legs - for the particularly unusual effect combined with dresses in the same pattern.
Nice monotone: Monochrome looks
boss
Balmain
GmbH
That white is suitable for almost everything - except perhaps for spaghetti meal - showed Valentino, Boss, Gucci and Noir Kei Ninomiya. For Boss there were strict suits in the non-color, the Japanese label Noir Kei Ninomiya remote, cloud-like structures. However , it was not just white that was staged tonight: almost every color from the Pantone catalog was represented. Balmain used pink and canary yellow, boss next to white also coral and azure. GmbH presented darker shades.
One-sided thing: mono sleeves
Valentino
Brandon Maxwell
JW Anderson
Helmut Lang
Designs with only one sleeve are not a new invention. Legendary is, for example, the Hachi dress that Princess Diana wore in 1983. Partial shoulder free were even the Romans and the Greeks. The mono-sleeve , as it is called in industry circles, can be found not only on dresses such as Valentino. Brandon Maxwell showed a combination of black trousers and a white top, which additionally picked up the asymmetry in a crooked bandage. Not everyone likes to show off their shoulders, but the look can be styled differently. Simply put one arm in the jacket, as seen by Helmut Lang.
Elegant and Edgy: leather designs
Hermes
boss
Dior
Leather exudes luxury and daring. Bright colored, it looks classy, while black leather jackets always look cool (in case of doubt, just wear a dark pair of jeans or a pleated skirt). Leather pants, on the other hand, are harder to wear, not just because of their weight. Especially the jacket-pants-double-combo is daring. Gauchere - blazers for wider trousers - and Hermès with tone-on-tone outfits from aubergine to white showed how it works. The color spectrum in 2020 also includes bright tones such as yellow, blue, red or green. Leather skirts and dresses as well as coats will also be on display in the upcoming season. The fashion-conscious play the theme of military accessories such as breastplate or halter.
Below and above: negligee dresses
Stella McCartney
Lion
Mugler
Dresses in underwear optics were already a thing last season. Next spring they are characterized by transparent fabrics such as in the collections of Burberry and Dior. Here (Christopher Kane) and there (Gucci) were also elements of lace to see, new and more widespread are models with satin, as used, inter alia, Claire Waight Keller for their Givenchy collection.
Yippie, Hippie: Seventies style
Fendi
Gucci
Louis Vuitton
It's time for a seventies- festival again. It does not have to go as far as Hedi Slimane, who designed his entire boho-style Celine collection, but there were flares, graphic prints, batik, wild patchwork and patches, as well as ethnic patterns on several catwalks from London to Paris. At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing limited the subject to huge collars, while his colleague Nicolas Ghesquière also brought back the colors and patterns of the past for Louis Vuitton, which would have worked well in any communal WG. If you just feel like a little bit of Seventies, just buy one of the new oversized sunglasses. Then the time travel remains financially in the frame.
Jacket like pants: suits
After years of streetwear hype it finally becomes classic again. Pantsuits are no longer slim fit. The silhouettes are far. Instead of clear and sharp edges, there are flowing cuts, especially the pants fabrics fall soft and play around the leg. Blazers often have a stressed shoulder area. They are available in the stages from blatant (Balenciaga) to discreet (Alexander McQueen). Think Don Johnson in Miami Vice. Also color play the current double-breasted in this league. Featured are pastel and even neon tones and large-scale prints. Not quite as conspicuous and office-ready are beige two-piece (best to a white or neon T-shirt).
