On a high table across the sidewalk, the pint of beer that should bait customers quietly loses its bubbles. In this street adjoining the Grands Boulevards, in Paris, a bar has launched take-out. The bartender is seated behind a series of tables lined up in front of the establishment, on which bottles of wine or beer are presented, taken from a printer. A completely new process for him and for his establishment.
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Since Monday, May 11, which began deconfinement in France, bars have turned to takeaway to replenish the boxes and make their name live with their customers. After a week, the first assessment is mixed. At the end of the afternoon, it is even calm calm on the side of the Grands Boulevards. " We started the take-out sale last Monday," explains the barman. We mainly had crowds on Friday and Saturday evening. The people who come are the neighbors of the district ... But overall, we expected that there would be more people . "
Most of the bar workers have remained on short-time working, as since the start of confinement. Take-out does not make up for weeks of inactivity. Especially since the spirits are sold out: a bottle of wine which was offered at 25 euros is now sold 12. “ We have to be able to compete with wine merchants, otherwise people will wonder why buy a bottle they will pay less dear fifty put further, "says the bartender. He contemplates the wide sidewalk in front of him: " We could make a wild terrace here, but we'll wait for the instructions from the town hall. We don't want to annoy competitors who don't have as much space ”.
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You will have to take your pain patiently. The government has promised to reopen bars and restaurants on June 2 in the green zone. However, for the red zone to which Paris belongs, no recovery date has been set for the moment.
Makeshift seats
" Takeout is better than nothing ." At the Le Komptoir bar, on Place Edmond-Michelet near the Georges Pompidou center, the bay window was opened and a bar cabinet brought back into the doorway. Marion Poncet, the owner of the establishment does not spill over the difficulties involved in the closure: " we will keep ."
The terrace of the Komptoir has been cleared, only the parasols remain. However, it's good for the atmosphere of a bar that regulars want to find. A client comes to buy a whiskey and a Corona beer to go drink it with her friend on the porch of the neighboring building. Others remain standing, and a couple sips a mojito leaning on the bar railing. As in front of the Stravinsky fountain, not far away, the concrete bollards act as seats, and they are all occupied. Those who want to enjoy the good weather and a refreshment must drop the mask, and sometimes forget the social distancing.
In this show around Les Halles, police officers ride their bikes without stopping. " They know that people need to be ventilated, they are understanding, " explains Samir Boussaba, owner of Café Rive Droite. The passers-by are there. A man-statue painted gold color is also back, and their address winks.
For Samir Boussaba, resuming activity is a breath of fresh air, even if he has reduced the airfoil. Bottles of rosé rub shoulders with beer taps and the ice machine, which is still the most popular. Three people are busy behind this tinkered outdoor bar. Here too, the take-away sale is disappointing: customers don't stop long. " I have about 90 to 95% of losses compared to my normal turnover " laments Samir Boussaba, before letting go: "we are almost there to beg ."
The majority of bars around preferred to keep the door closed. " Takeout is an epiphenomenon, bars only make a very small percentage of their figure like this, " confirms Laurent Lutse, President of the Union of Trades and Hotel Industries (UMIH) in charge of cafes, brasseries, and night establishments. He gets annoyed by the lack of preparation of professionals for this exercise: “ the law requires that drinks sold to take away be in closed containers, or with a lid. However, I see that establishments rarely do so ”. The Umih sent a circular to professionals to alert them of these shortcomings and remind the bars of this obligation.
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But if you can easily consider selling beer in a can, how can you serve a glass of wine in a closed container? An additional puzzle for professionals who have embarked on the complicated adventure of take-away sales.
