Alain Ducasse, the most starred French chef in the world, will be leaving the restaurant of the Parisian palace Le Plaza Athénée, which he has run since 2000 and where he has imposed the very avant-garde concept of “naturalness”.
"The partnership between Le Plaza Athénée and Alain Ducasse will not be renewed when it expires on June 30," announced the palace which belongs to the Dorchester collection group in a press release.
On the other hand, the operator of nine luxury hotels belonging to the Brunei Investment Agency (BIA) will continue its collaboration with Alain Ducasse in Meurice, in Paris (2 Michelin stars) and in London (The Dorchester, 3 stars). "The three stars of the Alain Ducasse restaurant at the Plaza Athénée obtained around naturalness and its cuisine respectful of the resources of our planet, will have marked the history of high gastronomy and that of this great Parisian Palace", underlined François Delahaye, Director of Operations of Dorchester Collection.
The reasons for the ousting of Alain Ducasse, 21 Michelin stars, remain unknown.
It intervenes in the context of the health crisis which has plunged the haute cuisine of luxury hotels into hibernation, emptied of their rich international clientele.
The two parties agreed not to renew their partnership, specified Alain Ducasse and François Delahaye.
“For man, it is a snub.
For French haute cuisine, it's an earthquake, ”said Franck Pinay-Rabaroust, editor-in-chief of the specialist media Atabula.
“Naturalness” as a brand
Shortly before the reconfinement, Alain Ducasse published “Le Grand livre de la Naturalité” which recounts the evolution of his approach, co-signed with Romain Meder and Jessica Préalpato, his pastry chef at the Plaza Athénée, and named best pastry chef in the world by the prestigious British ranking 50 Best in 2019. During the health crisis, Alain Ducasse took this concept to the streets with take-out meals for an average price of 22 euros designed by Romain Meder.
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The concept of “naturalness”, which banishes meat and minimizes butter, one of the bases of traditional French cuisine, was conceived six years ago for the palace restaurant. An even more radical version of “desseralité”, a variation of “naturalness” for desserts, was produced by Jessica Préalpato with very little sugar and fruit sublimated in vinegar. This very modern kitchen was praised by critics, with some saying there was a “before and after” meal at Plaza Athénée.
