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Recycling: fashion awakens its dormant stocks

2021-05-30T09:29:41.077Z


FIGARO DEMAIN - Luxury giants and independent designers bring unused materials back to life. “ When I worked at Givenchy, I was struck by the quantities of magnificent fabrics forgotten by luxury houses after production. They slept in sheds for several years, when part of it had been sold to discounters who were selling them in poor conditions. Others were even destroyed. Too few were recycled , explains the thirty- something Romain Brabo. On the other side of the spectrum, I met so many


When I worked at Givenchy, I was struck by the quantities of magnificent fabrics forgotten by luxury houses after production.

They slept in sheds for several years, when part of it had been sold to discounters who were selling them in poor conditions.

Others were even destroyed.

Too few were recycled

, explains the thirty-

something

Romain Brabo.

On the other side of the spectrum, I met so many “little” designers who were having difficulty finding quality materials at an affordable price.

So, this former materials buyer within the LVMH group has the idea of ​​launching, with Marie Falguera (specialist in the quality of materials and CSR issues at Kenzo) and Anne Prieur du Perray, expert in digital transformation, Nona Source .

For us, it is essential to defend and support French know-how

Éléonore Rothley, co-founder of UpTrade

The idea?

Allow luxury houses to sell their surplus raw materials by selling them on an e-shop.

Young designers and emerging brands can then supply them, for only a third of the original price of the fabric.

Launched on April 26, the platform, which benefits from the support of the LVMH group, also aims to become a place of internal discussion for its brands (Celine, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Berluti, etc.).

"More responsible collections"

While upcycling (or rewarding recycling) is on the rise more than ever, with a new generation of designers (Marine Serre, Bode, etc.) or established brands (Miu Miu, Petit H d'Hermès) who are using it in their collections, the issue of managing dormant stocks seems more relevant than ever for the fashion industry. “

Today, many new brands are looking at these neglected raw materials to create their collections in a more responsible way,

enthuses Éléonore Rothley, co-founder of UpTrade, another platform dedicated to this type of resale.

These young entrepreneurs with a more general public positioning are very sensitive to these issues.

But what is even more encouraging is that they come in contact with us to source materials and create more ecological capsule collections!

Especially since the Covid crisis. ”

To limit the environmental impact of transport, the platform only acts as an intermediary between the seller and the buyer, without storing the rolls of fabric.

And specializes in locally woven materials.

"

For us, it is essential to defend and support French know-how."

Read also:

Textile: the second hand is gaining more and more followers

It should also be noted that resale is not the only way to dispose of dormant stocks.

At Kering, they claim to have distributed 35,000 meters of fabric to several European schools and recycling channels.

There are also many recovery programs.

Leathers are made into fertilizers or reused to produce objects;

frayed fabrics can be used to create durable thermal and acoustic insulation from the Métisse brand.

Nothing is lost, nothing is found, everything is transformed ...


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All business articles on 2021-05-30

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