48 hours in Oslo, our guide to a weekend in the green city

2021-10-14T05:21:55.478Z

CITY GUIDE - Oslo, elected European green capital in 2019, offers everything a city dweller can hope for: a city on a human scale that gives pride of place to outdoor activities. And when the weather is capricious, it compensates with a thriving cultural offer and an innovative gastronomic scene!

At first glance, Oslo is disconcerting with its austere buildings and its lack of charm. The oil manna made it go from a small country town to a capital in the 1960s with the real estate aberrations of the time. For the past ten years or so, the town hall has had ecological ambitions and has committed to reducing its carbon emissions by 95% by 2030. If the diversity of large modern buildings can leave one perplexed as to the coherence of Oslo architecture , it ultimately offers a fairly realistic vision of today's world where the style of each architect fits together with a certain harmony. But above all, it is the wealth of infrastructure that makes the city so desirable and attracts more and more applicants for immigration. Oslo is the city ofEurope which has experienced the greatest demographic growth for twenty years. It seems that everything is done to facilitate the quality of life of city dwellers: the creation of beaches in the city center, open-air museums in the heart of parks, restaurants that make people forget the country's bad gastronomic reputation. Not to mention the cultural scene which is working hard to catch up with the major European capitals with the opening of the new Munch museum at the end of October 2021 and the National Gallery in 2022.Not to mention the cultural scene which is working hard to catch up with the major European capitals with the opening of the new Munch museum at the end of October 2021 and the National Gallery in 2022.Not to mention the cultural scene which is working hard to catch up with the major European capitals with the opening of the new Munch museum at the end of October 2021 and the National Gallery in 2022.

The arrival

Just over two hours from Paris, the Norwegian capital, between sea and nature, is full of brand new architectural surprises.

Didrick Stenersen / VisitOslo

Air France and SAS airlines connect the Norwegian capital in two hours from Paris.

From € 117 AR with Air France and € 128 with SAS.

The easiest way to reach central Oslo is to take FlytoGet, a train shuttle that connects the airport to Central Station in 20 minutes.

€ 20 one way, free for children under 16 if accompanied by a paying adult.

For taxis, Oslo Taxi offers a kiosk at the exit of the arrivals hall, which allows you to reserve a car at a fixed price.

Between 85 and 130 euros to reach the city center, depending on your address.

From five people, we send you a van, which avoids taking two taxis.

MOVE

Taxis are quite expensive and cars are almost banned from the city center, with access to the city center full of tolls and overpriced parking lots.

On the other hand, the park of scooters and self-service bicycles (they are equipped with snow tires in winter) is substantial.

To rent a bike, download the Oslo Bysykkel app.

Very cheap.

The day pass is € 6 and allows you to make trips of less than sixty minutes as many times as you want during the day.

Scooters are more expensive, € 3.50 for ten minutes at Tier.

The public transport network includes a metro, trams and buses.

The easiest way is to buy tickets online with the Ruterbillett app.

The price depends on the distance traveled.

Finally, the Oslo Pass gives access to all means of public transport in the Oslo region as well as to over 30 museums and attractions.

€ 65.50 (adult) and € 32.50 (6-17 years old) for 48 hours.

You can buy it on the internet, in the Oslo Pass app or at many outlets across the city.

MORE INFORMATIONS

Oslo Tourist Office:

visitoslo.com.

Norwegian Tourist Board:

visitnorway.com

The sites are a mine of information, in particular with the section "The good addresses of the locals" to get off the beaten track.

What to do now

TO HAVE

The Munch Museum

Five times the size of the original museum erected in 1963, the new Munch Museum will cover 26,300 m2.

Its vertical structure, the top of which is inclined at 45 degrees, also shakes up the horizon of the Norwegian landscape, as does its recycled aluminum sheet cladding.

Didrick Stenersen / VisitOslo

Built in the new Bjørvika district, the Munchmuseet is dedicated to the famous Norwegian painter Gustav Munch.

This all-glass building created by the Spanish architectural firm Estudio Herreros houses nearly 26,700 pieces in its eleven exhibition halls, making it the largest collection of Munch's works in the world.

Among the best known,

The Sun

, an eight-meter long canvas or all the versions of his flagship work,

Le Cri

The building is completely self-sufficient and was constructed from recycled materials.

It is part of the new Oslo skyline made up of a dozen rather tall and narrow buildings renamed the “Barcode”.

Its opening is announced on October 22, 2021. Until January 2, 2022, it will also host an exhibition by British artist Tracey Emin on Munch's influence on his work.

Munch Museum, Edvard Munch Plass 1, 0194 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 23 49 35 00. Admission: 16 €.

Free for children under 16.

Hours: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Saturday to Tuesday and 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays.

THE RIGHT TABLE

Mohn

Mohn's cuisine is inventive and delicious bistro style.

Astrid Taupin / Le Figaro

In the Filipstad district near the Astrup Fearnley contemporary art museum, the Mohn restaurant is a must. A little out of the way in a warehouse area, no name on the facade, just a large terrace with tavern-style lanterns tells us that we have found a little gem. Housed in an old storage building, the decor is reminiscent of the great New York lofts. The cuisine is inventive and delicious bistronomy style. The oysters are embellished with an exquisite green coriander sauce, the artichoke and broccoli velouté is to die for and the fish melt in your mouth. The menu is not translated into English, but the staff will be happy to act as interpreters. A sign that this restaurant is not a tourist trap, moreover there were only locals during our visit.No wonder because it is not in any tourist guide, but it should not last. A la carte, dishes around € 33.

Mohn, Filipstadveien 5, 0254 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 91 92 07 27. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

Amerikalinjen Hotel

This beautiful red building from 1916, located a stone's throw from Oslo Central Station, tells a whole story of the city.

Amerikalinjen / Photo press

In 1919, this austere building housed the headquarters of the Amerikalinjen shipping company, which linked Oslo to the various ports across the Atlantic. The great era of the American dream. More than 100,000 Norwegians took its lines to reach the United States. A century later, this place steeped in history has given way to a boutique hotel that has kept its name. New York nods like the dining room with its high red brick walls and its large fireplace, much appreciated in the middle of winter. Gustave Henriksen Jazz Club, named after the founder of the shipping company, offers weekend concerts worthy of Manhattan's biggest clubs. Its location in the city center, a stone's throw from the train station and the opera house, makes it easy to reach on foot. The 122 rooms including 7 suites offer an intimate decoration.From € 220 per night in a double room.

Amerikalinjen Hotel, Jernbanetorget 2, 0154 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 21 40 59 00.

DAY 1, CULTURAL FLANERY

Morning

We will not forget to visit the Vigeland Sculpture Park.

More than 200 works in bronze, granite and wrought iron punctuate this park designed by Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943).

Didrick Stenersen / VisitOslo

The walk up

Karl Johans Gate

, the city's main shopping artery to the Royal Palace, is a good warm-up to start the morning. After crossing the gardens of the Royal Palace, you arrive in the vast

Frogner Park

. It has the particularity of hosting a permanent exhibition of the most famous works of the sculptor, Gustav Vigeland, located in the part called "Vigeland Park". Two hundred and twelve sculptures in granite and bronze represent men, women, children and old people on the different themes of life, love, contempt, anger etc. At the first light of the morning, the spectacle is of any beauty. A little hungry, push the door of the

Anne Pa Landet café

(in the heart of the park) for a hot chocolate with a hint of rum.

Next, head to the

food

market

which takes place every Saturday in the

Majorstuen district

Taste brown cheese, a Norwegian specialty.

If you are still near the

Royal Palace

at lunchtime, the changing of the royal guard takes place every day at 1:30 p.m.

The walk starts half an hour before in front of the citadel of Akershus.

A show that will delight fans of the monarchy.

Lunch break

Café Platz combines fashion and gastronomy.

Café Platz / Photo press

Located between the Opera and the Munchmuseet, in the Oslobukta district,

Café Platz

combines fashion and gastronomy.

Founded by Suzanne Holzweiler, owner of the eponymous clothing brand, she wanted to create a place where people come to have lunch with friends and go shopping.

Fusion cuisine combining Kimchi, crab salad with flowers ...

Afternoon

The OsloBukta district combines culture and architecture with various original buildings.

Didrick Stenersen / VisitOslo

The

OsloBukta

district

combines culture and architecture with various original buildings, including the

Opera House

A masterpiece of purity with its Carrara marble sides plunging into the water of the fjord.

The slopes of the building climb up to the roof and offer a superb place for a picnic (in summer) or simply to enjoy a breathtaking view of the city.

Inside, a large spiral in light wood slats houses the three concert halls.

If you can't attend a concert, a guided tour is a must.

The interior of the opera house.

Mae & Many

Opposite, the

Deichman Library

, one of the most beautiful libraries in the world, is also worth a look.

It is open to all audiences and houses a cinema room, play areas for children and a restaurant.

Continue to the

Sørenga district

and stroll along the fjord.

Beaches have been recently fitted out with diving boards, wooden decks.

The last, opposite the new Munch Museum, was inaugurated in July 2021. At the end, a natural seawater pool. It is not uncommon to see Osloites swimming lengths at any time of the day.

The people of Oslo like to take their time in a rhythm where family is always a priority.

Oslo Badstuforening

Another flagship activity of the local population is the sauna.

Do like them and try the

floating sauna

experience

To book solo or to privatize with friends.

Nothing is more pleasant than relaxing in the heat of a sauna and diving into the transparent waters of the fjord.

Some are equipped with electric motors and can travel the fjord for two or three hour cruises.

Do it at least once in your life.

Having dinner

Brand new, the

VIA Village

recently opened in the

Vika district

Inspired by the

Time Out Market

in Lisbon, the VIA Village brings together several famous restaurants in the capital installed under a hall around a central bar.

A nice bistronomic offer offering cuisines from all over the world: Indian, Asian, Argentinian, Mexican etc.… Everyone chooses according to their tastes, everyone gets together around large tables d'hôtes to share a convivial moment.

The opportunity to interact with locals.

Go out and have a drink

Territoriet is a wine bar with a nice selection of over three hundred vintages.

Territoriet / Press photo

There are more than five thousand concerts a year in Oslo, which means that the offer is plentiful.

The

districts of Grünerløkka and Vulkan

concentrate the majority of live music scenes.

Two of the most popular

venues

with the

rather intimate

Kafe Hærverk

Blå

offers jazz concerts and has a pretty terrace on the banks of the Akerselva.

Perfect for having a drink outside when the weather permits.

Quieter,

Territoriet

is a wine bar with a nice selection of over three hundred wines served by the glass as well as a very nice gin and tonic menu.

DAY 2, WALK ALONG THE FJORD

Morning

In summer, the queue stretches in front of the ferries to the islands of Hovedøya, Lindøya, Gressholmen or Langøyene. Didrick Stenersen / VisitOslo

The

Bygdøy

peninsula

is a must-see on a first visit to Oslo as it concentrates the city's most popular museums.

From Oslo Central Station, take bus no.30 to the peninsula.

In summer, the crossing can be done by ferry from quay 4 opposite the town hall (Rådhuset).

Choose from four museums (the fifth, the Viking Ship Museum is closed for renovation): the Folkemuseet on Norwegian folk art, the Kon-Tiki, children's favorite with the famous raft that linked Peru to French Polynesia and the Norsk Maritim Museet, Naval Museum.

Finally the last, our favorite, the Fram museum dedicated to the incredible history of the ship of the same name, emblematic of the first polar expeditions.

Lunch break

Head back towards the city center and stop at

Tjuvholmen

This former dock area was known for its insecurity until private investors bought it in 2005 to transform it into an ultramodern district with buildings designed by the greatest architects including Renzo Piano.

Many restaurants in Oslo are closed on Sundays, so opt for the hotel restaurant

The Thief

which serves a delicious brunch with a magnificent view of the fjord.

Afternoon

Renzo Piano designed the setting for this small museum which houses works by Damien Hirst, Olivier Debré, Anselm Kiefer… Didrick Stenersen / VisitOslo

Adjacent to The Thief is the

Astrup Fearnley Museet Museum of Modern Art

It is one of the beautiful buildings in the city.

Directed by Renzo Piano, it houses a sumptuous collection of works by contemporary artists: Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst, Cindy Sherman, Anselm Kiefer… Then, head to the Akerselva river for a lovely bucolic stroll embellished with waterfalls and pretty street art works.

Depart from

Ankerbrua Bridge

in the lower part of the

Grünerløkka

district

The five-leaf clover waffle, a Norwegian specialty.

Anders Husa

Along the way, stop at

Hønse-Lovisas Has Cafe

to eat a five-leaf clover-shaped waffle, a Norwegian specialty.

If you are in Oslo in the middle of winter, the tobogganing experience is a must.

This is the

track of Korkettrekern

, which means corkscrew in Norwegian.

Ten minutes of straightforward descent over a length of two kilometers.

Just take the metro to reach Frognerseteren station.

Sledges are available for hire on site.

Having dinner

Lorry is one of the oldest and most authentic restaurants in town.

Astrid Taupin / Le Figaro

In the embassy district behind the Royal Palace,

Lorry

is one of the city's oldest and most authentic restaurants.

The opportunity to taste reindeer meat with red berries.

For dessert, a brown cheese waffle and you can say you've had a real Norwegian meal.

The decoration inside is just surprising, made of odds and ends like an antique store.

60 € for the three-course menu.

Mains between 26 and 42 €.

Address Book

COFFEE & BARS

Anne På Landet, Frognerveien 67, 0266 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 216 87 050. Hot chocolate and pastries.

Blå, Brenneriveien 9C, 0182 Oslo.

Live jazz and hip-hop music.

Kafe Hærverk, Hausmanns Gate 34, 0182 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 930 95 357. Electronic and indie artists.

Nice menu of craft beers.

Territoriet, Markveien 58, 0550 Oslo.

Wine bar.

Tim Wendelboe, Grüner gate 1, 0552 Oslo.

Espresso bar and complex coffee drinks.

RESTAURANTS

In the Grünerløkka district, the Vikings abandoned their longship for a skateboard.

Tord Baklund

Cafeplatz, Operagata 61D, 0194 Oslo.

Phone.

: 47 922 66 620. Around € 18 a dish.

Via Village, Munkedamsveien 29, 0251 Oslo.

From 10 to 30 € the dish.

Lofoten Fiskrestaurant, Stranden 75, 0250 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 228 30 808. Perfect for tasting seafood by the fjord.

45 € the dish, 82 € the seafood platter.

The Vandelay, Operagata 30, 0194 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 406 31 411. Open on Sunday.

Renowned for its brunch.

Dishes between 30 and 40 € in the evening.

Hønse-Lovisas Hus, Sandakerveien 2, 0473 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 216 87 050.

The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 240 04 022. Around € 25 per plate for brunch.

Lorry, Parvien 12, 0350 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 226 96 904. 60 € the menu.

Dishes between 26 and 42 € and 60 € for the three-course menu.

White Guide

The White Guide is the equivalent of the French site “Le Fooding” in a chic version.

A specialized site which brings together very beautiful gastronomic addresses in Scandinavia.

As the site started in Denmark, the list is obviously more substantial, nevertheless a small list of ten establishments for the city of Oslo deserves our attention.

whiteguide.com

SHOPPING

Vinkelplassen Market, Kirkeveien 59, 0366 Oslo.

Every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Fresh products and Norwegian products.

Norwegian Rain, Karl Johans Gate 41B, 0162 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 471 46 088. A chic raincoat.

Dale of Norway, Karl Johans Gate 43, 0162 Oslo.

Phone.

: + 47 974 81 207. A Norwegian sweater.

Helly Hansen, Karl Johans Gate 3, 0162 Oslo.