Hamudi Bargot founded Liwa, a food bar with a dairy fish menu and kosher Arabic food, on the roof of the Akhotika Hotel in Old Acre. The view to the sea is spectacular, the cocktails are poured and the prices are great.

Bargot saw Acre go up in flames three years ago and thought it couldn't get any worse than that. He moved on, scarred but united, in the shadow of the long war in the long shadow of war.