Avi Efrati reviews Vermotria, a Spanish-style food bar in Tel Aviv. He says he has struggled with the question of when the review section is supposed to return.
The role of the restaurant review is not to pick restaurants but to review them impartially, he says. Vermutria was opened on Lilinblum Street last summer, behind old and experienced figures in the world of restaurants - Avi Kashi (Chikti) and chef Michael Gratofsky, also a partner in Chikti and the owner and chef of Bistro Michael Bliman in the Western Galilee, apparently not yet back in business. The restaurant scene is gradually becoming even less grandiose than it was and much more modest and thin, he writes, with very few "first-main" meals and more starters and intermediates to share. And yet, just as we felt during and after the corona virus: for many people, restaurants are an existential mental need.