Sicilian chef Bartolo Calderone is the head of the Capperi pizzeria and the School of Pizza and Natural Breadmaking, both in Bordeaux. "Pasta is in my genes," he says.

In order to know what a "real" gnocchi is, it is enough to refer to the bible of Italian cuisine: "The science in cooking and the art of eating well", by Pellegrino Artusi, a directory of recipes collected in 1891. "If you have time, it's much better to make them at home," he concludes.