“We get used to war”: in Kharkiv, life returns despite Russian missiles. Russian artillery, driven from the outskirts of the city in May 2022, is no longer shelling the industrial city.

The usually annoying purring of exhaust pipes now symbolizes the return to life of Ukraine's second city, as large and populated as Lyon. Only 1.2 million people still live there compared to almost 2 million before the war - but Kharksiv breathes, seethes, resists.