Toulouse is no longer the entrenched camp of duck fat and heady violet sweets. Young chefs take their ease in the shadow of Saint-Sernin and do wonders there.
Nothing is more delightful than seeing a thirty-year-old take a rustic score from the depths of the ages and give it a graceful facelift. This is what Laura Pelou achieves at Gram's (a tribute to her cooking grandmothers), opened in October 2022 in the booming Colombette district.