Maria Nicolau, 41, has become an essential voice of gastronomy in Spain. Her memoirs reflect the part of the job she loves that is furthest from the spotlight.

'Quemo!' is sprinkled with popular recipes, humor, criticism, reflection and that humanity that so characterizes Nicolau. 'My soul is sewn up with machetes, but having this job means I can earn a salary wherever I go,' she says. 'We have to tell young people about it because we need talent to come to this restoration'