West of Naples, nearly half a million inhabitants live just above a supervolcano. Depending on the period, the magma raises or lowers the ground and causes earthquakes.

In 2023, no fewer than 3,450 earthquakes have been recorded. Francesco Ciciriello, 72, is not a man to change his habits. He refuses to moor at the port that the municipality has set up for fishermen 200 meters away. He still anchors his boat in the ‘waterless dock’