Traders in the capital's 80 indoor and outdoor food markets are worried about the changes in Parisians' habits. Since the Covid crisis, and particularly at the end of the week, we have lost half of our customers, says Nasser, who has been unpacking his bananas and tangerines for thirty-five years.

The Brancusi market (14th century), weakened, has a turnover at half mast. "It’s a profession in danger," says one trader.