The village of Tarentaise is becoming more international while the restaurants are reconnecting with the Savoyard spirit. Soon, perhaps, Val d'Isère Vacherin, grated potato fritters and cabbage preserved in ashes will sell at high prices in the chic boutiques of Dubai, Sao Paulo and New York.

As for gastronomy, with a few exceptions - like Valentin Biseul, at the Altiplano - the local chefs seem tired of exotic digressions. And most of them speak locavore.