Cantonese rice has become a standard in Asian cuisine. Recipe based on peas, omelette and Paris ham has become emblematic of Asian caterers and restaurants.

Sophie Ya, chef and restaurateur of Cantonese origin, at the head of the Feel Ling restaurant in Paris. "It's not bad but it's standardized," she says of the caterer's tray. "In this plate, there is more personality, more history. There is... she hesitates then concludes: ''My love of cooking''.