The Nepita restaurant by Amandine Chaignot at the Florida Paris hotel. Three steps from Madeleine, the chef opens a brasserie that aims to be “of the sun’ The Nepita is said to be a butterfly from India and Sri Lanka.

Between grilling intermittents and fixed-duration casseroles, these are more or less well-mooned. Between €50 and €66 a la carte. Menus at €36 and €45 (lunch), discovery menu at €70. Brunch at €43.