Until 50 years ago, the majority of Spaniards ate leftovers for dinner or, directly, went to bed without dinner. Having yogurt and fruit as a synonym for a Spartan dinner is a modern invention.

Eating out was not common until the 1920s, although the first hotel restaurants appeared at the end of the 19th century. “There is no food that feels worse at night than midday,” says Aitor Schez, dietitian at the Nutrition Center Alerán.