Sharak: The new Acre restaurant in Tel Aviv

The four-year-old Sabida restaurant managed to become one of the most beloved and talked-about fish restaurants in the country, a year ago, chef Dan Shmolovitz closed it and vowed never to open a restaurant again, this week he made us very happy when he broke his oath with Sharak, a Mediterranean fish restaurant in Tel Aviv

Full transparency on raw materials (Photo: Shani Brill)

Sharak (Photo: Shani Brill, PR)

Just a year ago, Dan Shmolovitz closed the door of a Sevida restaurant in Acre and promised himself that he would never open a restaurant again. Within four years, Shmuelovich, and his then-sympathizer Ohad Horowitz, managed to become a well-known name in the culinary scene, and became a well-known name in the Tel Aviv bubble, while his small restaurant runs 100 miles away, in the dim Turkish bazaar in Old Acre. Savedah only served fresh fish and seafood, leaning on the old concept of fish and salads but making it contemporary and accurate.

Nevertheless, the love she received from all over the country did not help her, nor did she move to a new and more prominent location in the Old City, a move that took a heavy toll on everyone involved. Sabida closed, leaving Acre's renewed culinary scene shuffling without it. Shmulovich, who felt defeated, swore that he would never again, an oath that he had to violate when he came up with an offer that could not be refused, to set up a new fish restaurant in Tel Aviv.

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There are many vegetarian dishes (Photo: Shani Brill)

Sharak (Photo: Shani Brill, PR)

Born and raised in Kibbutz Lohamei Haghetaot, he studied cooking at Cordon Blue in Pasadena, California and later worked in many well-known restaurants in the United States. He opened it around Acre with the desire to bring back his fame, a kind of gastronomic patriotism. He now brings his minimalist approach to fish handling to Sharak, a new restaurant that opened on Ben Yehuda Street, where the Agadir Embassy restaurant operated until a year ago. Eitan Treblus, the founder and owner of Agadir, felt that Ben Yehuda Street suited something different and brought Shmolovitz to do what he did in Acre in Tel Aviv. Meaning that the name Arack is a quality fishing method and is a phrase that lives in the mouths of fishermen from the Mediterranean basin, and is the inspiration for a Mediterranean menu that puts the raw material at the center and avoids food manipulation.

Sabice from a local fish (Photo: Shani Brill)

Sharak (Photo: Shani Brill, PR)

Sharak's menu offers openings, starters, and mains from the sea, with plenty of vegetarian and two vegan options as well. The menu can be seen next to each dish whether it is from local fisheries, aquaculture or imports, with a desire to bring full transparency to the raw materials. Shmuelowitz makes an original ciziki made from asparagus sea and not from cucumbers like we are used to (NIS 22), or from a potato, almond and crumbly buttercream spread over NIS (26 NIS), there is also seaweed salad made from seaweed, caramelized onions, and red shrimp cumin. ), And chips served with amulet aioli and homemade ketchup (NIS 18), plus a few servings of vegetables, cheese or fish to open the meal with.

Bread and olives, cheese and spreads (Photo: Shani Brill)

Sharak (Photo: Shani Brill, PR)

As in Acre, here, too, Shmolovitz's personal connections with the fishermen in Jaffa are key to this fresh and seasonal menu, but he not only relies on them and also offers fish from aquaculture or seafood from imports, emphasizing that for him it is not a compromise, but a choice made after endless testing and tasting. . There are fine fish, pickled and smoked in a variety of varieties (NIS 36-48), and you can mainly choose between lightning (NIS 82) or Dennis (NIS 78) from aquaculture, charcoal or charmola sauce, or local fish fillets from local fish, in recent days A relatively rare Arian fish, also called Elab fish, was served in Jaffa, which is served alongside an alternate addition such as roasted small radishes (NIS 96). For dessert, Shmolovitz created Adam Ziv despised, a special homemade ice cream with goat cheese and goat cheese, served with olive oil and pistachios (NIS 22), or Lokmudas, small Greek donuts soaked in honey and thyme (NIS 18).

There is transparency about the raw materials on the menu (Photo: Shani Brill)

Sharak (Photo: Shani Brill, PR)

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Anyone who remembers the first incarnation of the Savida restaurant will probably remember the jaws of the shark hanging over the bar shaped like a fishing boat's bow. She designed Sharak similarly to the Peck Foundation, the horseshoe shaped bar fills almost all of the space around and around individual high tables, and fish images and metal developments on the sand-colored walls. High bar stools, on the bar or at the elevated tables, are almost the only seating in the small restaurant, which will run in the next few weeks, so the large balcony that characterized Agadir Embassy is not working yet, and the place is open only in the evening. In the future, Shmolovitz fantasizes about a lunch menu of fish sandwiches with calamari or fresh fish, along with cold beer, but it will take some time.

Sharak, Ben Yehuda 120 Tel Aviv, 03-6307070, Hours of Operation Sunday - Saturday 6: 00-23: 00