Two years almost to the day after the death of Paul Bocuse, his gastronomic table in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or suffered a strident disavowal. The Michelin Guide has chosen to remove it from the list of three-star establishments. Although engaged in an aesthetic and culinary modernization, the legendary restaurant "Monsieur Paul" has lost a distinction held continuously for more than fifty years.
The entire brigade had, however, reworked the traditional dishes of the great chef to refine them, give them a second wind that could please food critics now used to more modern cuisine. Likewise, major renovation works, about to be completed, have been carried out to refresh the walls of a table that has survived the ages.
The decision of the inspectors of the "red guide" caught the fervent defenders of Paul Bocuse, who like him, may have preferred "butter, cream, wine" to "peas quartered".