Soft make-up removing creams, exfoliating jellies, moisturizing mists all stamped "antipollution". We no longer know where to turn because the supply is abundant. While air pollution regularly exceeds regulatory thresholds, and is responsible, among other things, for cancers and respiratory disorders, numerous studies show that our epidermis is also the victim of pollution.
A marketing operation?
To counter the harmful effects of pollution on our skin, there is something for everyone and all budgets on the cosmetic market. Most of these products use antioxidants which can be effective. "It is a question of blocking oxidations and preserving the quality of the skin", explains Cécile Couteau, lecturer in industrial pharmacy and cosmetology at the University of Nantes and co-creator of the blog Regard on cosmetics. "The problem is that the antioxidant effect remains very slight because the cleansing product remains only a short time in contact with the skin," she deciphers.
For the specialist, the effectiveness of this care is far from proven. “The brands carry out real staging to prove the usefulness of the cosmetic, and use for example… charcoal to test the product. Inevitably, the results are then biased, “denounces Cécile Couteau.
Many brands offer “barrier” creams, which are supposed to prevent fine particles of pollution from entering the pores of the skin. "It is almost impossible," says the specialist. And to continue: "it is not even certain that the microparticles themselves penetrate into the skin".
Help, it makes us age!
However, pollution does damage. It is also proven: it participates in the phenomenon of skin aging. "This is the only serious conclusion scientifically demonstrated by studies, mostly carried out in overpolluted cities in Southeast Asia," says Martine Bagot, head of the dermatology department at Saint-Louis hospital in Paris.
The rays of the sun, combined with certain particles of pollution, create what is called "oxidative stress". Our organism releases "free radicals", molecules necessary for our defense but which, present in too great quantity, can cause a deterioration of the cutaneous structures.
An effect on acne
The pollution "would lead to an increase in acne", explains Pierre Schneider, dermatologist in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, attached to the Saint-Louis hospital. “The fine particles of pollution come to settle on the skin, modifying the quantity of sebum and increasing its presence in the orifices of the pores. This in turn leads to dilation and potential blackheads and imperfections. ”
Eczema would be a good customer too, since pollution tends to reveal or worsen it in some people. These, suffering from abnormalities in the skin, can hardly defend themselves against drying out and attacks caused by pollutants.
But you have to be on your guard, "these are very recent works so it is not possible to make them general at the moment", he warns. "There is more and more evidence showing that pollution plays its role, but it is never the only factor of deregulation. And we must not lose sight of the fact that the sun or tobacco damage the skin much more than pollution, ”he concludes.
Solutions anyway
Do not panic, there are solutions to have perfect skin even at the peak of pollution. "By following simple advice, you don't have to live in the countryside to have healthy skin," says Dr. Pierre Schneider. Or to ruin yourself in “anti-pollution” care. There is no quick fix, but thinking about nourishing your skin deeply by applying a moisturizer to your face every morning is fundamental. Using an antioxidant cream should also be able to protect it from "oxidative stress". In the evening, don't forget to cleanse your face well with a cotton pad, making sure to use soft micellar water.
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