They saw these two hoards, these "two cushions", as the owner of this mythical place fondly calls them. These two sculptures of Chinese merchants sit proudly above the hall of this café nestled in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, between the Saint-Germain church and Montparnasse. Les Deux Magots, with its green storefront, snapping like a teasing nose to its historic rival, the café de Flore. Where the feathers have crunched as much as the glasses resonate. Moleskin carpets worn by Beauvoir, Camus and all the fine flowers of 20th century artists whose portraits adorn the walls.
Close your eyes. And there, imagine the photographer and painter Dora Maar, among the incessant ballet of servers, tracing the outline of her hand with a knife. Opposite, another client contemplates her: Picasso. She accidentally cuts herself. He is moved, she becomes his muse. The two lovers, all smiles, dart behind a frame. Right here where she sat in the middle of the varnished tables.
Lightning strikes, and blood strokes. Legend has it that the writer Alfred Jarry committed his most famous escapade there. Wanting to discuss with his charming neighbor, reluctant, the author of "Ubu king", emperor of provocation, would have drawn a bullet in a mirror, then dropped calmly: "Let's talk now".
This popular place for writers, artists, directors and actresses was their intimate theater. Love, meetings and artistic movements were woven here. Originally, however, nothing to do with a literary café. Around 1800, it was first a store of novelties. "Hence the high ceilings," notes Catherine Mathivat, the current manager, great-granddaughter of the founder. At that time, fashion was to give names of works to the shops. In 1813, the author of vaudevilles Sewrin wrote "Les Deux Magots de la Chine". In homage, we hang a painting with two Chinese. Symbol of prosperity: these oriental statues appear.
1914. The brand is bought by Auguste Boulay, then a simple waiter. Our two hoards resist. "We do not know by what miracle," says the owner. His ancestor transforms the decor: woodwork, moleskin and mirrors replace the stalls. The cafes are boiling. Artists walk through the door. Among them, Apollinaire. In 1914, he wrote a letter to his lover on a ticket from the brand. "I got it," breathes Catherine.
Les Deux Magots will have its Goncourt
The literary epic quickly takes on another dimension. In 1933, André Malraux won the Goncourt for "The Human Condition". This is too much for the young Raymond Queneau, future author of "Zazie dans le métro", and his gang, regular surrealists and "pataphysicians", a bit jealous, in love with a more playful literature with words. The buddies - there are 13 of them - meet the same evening "to the heart" at the cafe. He has Goncourt? Never mind: "We will have ours." And there they are, like a group fomenting a plot to elect the first prize of Deux Magots. For Queneau and "Le Chiendent".
Except that they did not see fit to warn…. the owner. The next day, Auguste Boulay discovers the news in the press. "He was furious," says, amused, Catherine. This is my sign of course, he claims. From now on, coffee will be its patron.
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In short, we laugh, we drink, we remake the world. The Saint-Germain-des-Prés spirit culminates with jazz evenings. Le Tabou, a cellar located just behind loving Boris Vian. During the day, he rests in nearby restaurants. Hence the map, in tribute to the centenary of the author of "The scum of the days", with his veal stew that he loved so much in the neighborhood. Our two Chinese statuettes also see Hemingway slide at Sartre: “I am a captain. You are a general. " Or Breton to imagine surrealism "around a cup of coffee".
Everyone has their favorite place. Where pictures show these particular customers. “Apollinaire wanted to sit with his back to the church. Beauvoir next to the window. "This is where she will write" Les Mandarins ", Goncourt 1954." Hence the Deux Magots on the cover, when her book has nothing to do with them, "laughs Catherine Mathivat, the manager.
Regulars who come and go between here and Flore's cafe next door. "We bring his wife to one, his mistress to the other," say the gossip. Still, between these walls, nothing has changed or almost. Until hot chocolate cooked in water or the hat maker. “My grandfather refused to let us enter with his top hat. As for the sculptures, the mystery remains: "We still don't know who built them. Certainly, they are the silent witnesses of countless secrets.
Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th district). Open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.
DISCOVER… From “Rabbi Jacob” to “Untouchables”, a film set
The scene has become famous: Larbi Ben Slimane enters Les Deux Magots after passing in front of the terrace of the Café de Flore, before being kidnapped by the secret police. The film “Rabbi Jacob”, with Louis de Funès, was shot in the main hall in 1973. With a certain freedom. “Slimane sits on a bench. He is called on the phone, goes down to the toilet and goes out by ... behind. I assure you that in reality it is impossible, ”laughs Catherine Mathivat, the owner.
Since the 1970s, the brasserie has constantly attracted a slew of directors from Jean Eustache, one of the masters of the Nouvelle Vague, to the most recent duo Olivier Nakache and Éric Toledano. The cameras immortalized in the light of chandeliers the dialogues of "The Man from the Eiffel Tower" by Burgess Meredith (1949), "Everyone says I Love you" (1997) by Woody Allen, or the dinner between Omar Sy and François Cluzet in “Intouchables” (2011). A filming location therefore, but also of inspiration: JJ Abrams wrote the episode of Stars Wars VII there. May the force be with the Magots!
WE MEET… Catherine Mathivat, the fourth generation of bosses
Since the acquisition of the business in 1914 by Auguste Boulay, the brand has known four generations. When he died, his wife and then his daughter took over the family tradition, notably keeping the famous waiter's outfit, unchanged for a century. Couples, where everyone puts their own, succeed one another. “My grandmother married a pharmacist. My grandfather said: cocktails with pharmaceutical preparations, there is only one step, ”jokes Catherine Mathivat.
For decades, the business rolled. But in 1985, the family trembled. The walls are put up for auction. “We were a tenant. We could no longer be there. I was 17 but I still remember the panic, ”says the manager. Finally, the hammer falls: the Boulays keep the two Magots. Since 2012, Catherine Mathivat has in turn taken over the brand, with more space given to catering as her father wanted.
But above all, it continues to nourish its artistic vocation with the inauguration of writers' Mondays for two years, and, shortly, a Thursday of jazz in tribute to the Centenary of Boris Vian. Moreover, the photograph of the "Prince of Saint-Germain" will soon brighten up the walls. "But if we start putting them all on, they'll be completely covered," she laughs. As for the family succession, there was no question of giving it up: “I have two sons. I hope that they will in turn pass on our heritage. "
We take this opportunity to ...
... sit on the terrace at the Deux Magots café, a legendary place in Parisian cultural life, which has always been frequented by artists and intellectuals. From its terrace, there is a direct view of the beautiful Saint-Germain-des-Près church. Old-fashioned hot chocolate is excellent (8.50 euros).
Brasserie menu for lunch and dinner. Coffee 4.80 euros. 6, place Saint-Germain-des-Près (Paris, VIe). lesdeuxmagots.fr
... bite into one of the best sandwiches in the capital, at Cosi, a stone's throw from the School of Fine Arts and galleries. Original and punchy recipes like lanky mania, turkey with apple-chive curry, or Perfide Albion, roast beef-cheddar-candied tomatoes and stewed roasted onions. Fresh and soft bread. A delight.
From 6.50 to 9 euros per sandwich. 54, rue de Seine (Paris, VI).
... stroll through the narrow alleys of the district and dare to push the door of the numerous art galleries of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, around the streets of Seine and Bonaparte. Old or modern furniture, contemporary art, old prints, period jewelry, sculpture, painting or drawing, there are all styles and specialties.
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