At Prada and Fendi the feminine is feminist - Lifestyle

Nothing is more feminist than feminine. Miuccia Prada and Silvia Venturini Fendi, who in Milan Moda Donna on February 20 brought women free to play with women's clichés, to recognize their strength in delicacy and lightness, to undress their impositions and censures, are convinced of this .
"This is a collection made on instinct, with the will to do something useful, that made sense" premised Miuccia Prada, who sees in the preparation of the show room a metaphor of the female condition: in the center a sculpture of Atlas that he holds the world on his shoulders, on the walls the lightness of the flowers. "I wanted to represent the strength of women: lightness, delicacy, glamor, these feminine characteristics - explains the designer - are the real strength of women". And if power can be found in pleasure, glamor - with its optimism - becomes something useful, to transform everyday life from practical to aesthetic. And here they are the clichés of the feminine, the fringes, the embroideries, the slits, the transparencies, the heels, the tricks, the furs, which match and the austere suits, the shirts with tie, the coats with large shoulders, the jackets of nylon tightened at the waist by omnipresent belts that design hourglass lines. It is in this contrast that delicacy becomes strength: this is how the skirt with unstructured and open pleats accompanies the over-line blazer, the transparent skirt with the shirt with the tie, the sports net tunic with the patent leather decolleté. And in the same garment, masculine lines and fabrics and hyperfeminine details coexist, such as in the black coat all covered with fringes, which return to the gray wool dress with the folds or in the coarse knitted wool sweaters. To cheer up a rainy day, pink or light blue boots, to be worn with a nylon jacket and glam skirt. On the wrist, lipstick cases, on the neck medallions for a quick touch-up to the make-up, in the hand jewel bags decorated with trimmings.
For Silvia Venturini Fendi, the fact is that today, "being all strong women, we can regain the codes and commonplaces of the female wardrobe, we no longer need the male codes to be listened to". Indeed, adds the stylist, "today it is subversive to recover female codes: feminine and feminist are concepts that together are strengthened".
Dreaming of the day when "women of power will be dressed in pink chiffon and not in grisaille", Silvia brings her revolution to the catwalk, for women of all ages and sizes, because the reaffirmation of female identity also passes through here. And here are these clichés to proudly take back, "just as today there are young women who make a political question of having a few extra pounds". So go ahead with pink and lace, garters and sheer stockings, jewels and transparencies, all obviously filtered and combined in contrast with rough fabrics and sculptural lines. So the garter becomes the décolleté strap, the coppery spotted becomes more refined in the paisley of the shaved and embroidered velvet mink, the jewels (created in collaboration with Chaos) are hyper-technological, from the earring-pen to the smartphone case. The boudoir pink dress has sculptural sleeves, the lace petticoat has a black band on the breast like the Instagram censorship, the shirt-shirt has a lace-lined scarf collar, the necklines remind of a keyhole, even the flannel jacket has stitching that marks the breast and splints that emphasize the waist. (HANDLE).