10.9 million. This is the number of occurrences of the keyword "#avocado" ("lawyer" in French) on the social network Instagram. It's huge. Worn by followers of "healthy" cuisine, American actress Gwyneth Paltrow at the head, this fruit from Latin America has become for ten years the favorite superfood of the "planet food".
In Europe, according to the World Avocado Organization, its consumption rose from 202 million tonnes in 2008 to 650 million tonnes in 2018. The main reason for this runaway? Not only is it delicious, but it is also excellent for health: its unsaturated fatty acids reduce bad cholesterol and help regulate the cardiovascular system.
In the mafia sight
However, not everything is rosy, and especially not green, in the avocado world. Particularly in Mexico, the world's leading producer, which supplies the United States market. "As prices and demand have soared, criminal organizations that manage to grab only a fragment of resources can derive substantial income from them," said Falko Ernst, an organized crime specialist for the NGO International Crisis Group. .
The system is well established: the members of the cartels ask the farmers "a contribution to their cause". "If they don't comply, it will lead to an escalation of threats and violence," continues Falko Ernst, ranging from the destruction of the orchard to the kidnapping and murder of members of his family. "
A fruit greedy for water
From an environmental point of view, the picture is also rather grim: the cultivation of avocados consumes a lot of water. On average, it takes 1000 liters of water to grow 1 kg of avocado against 130 liters for 1 kg of salad. Logically, its production gives rise to droughts in producing countries, such as Peru, France's leading supplier.
We asked Allison Lamotte, owner of the Maison Nomade restaurant and lover of the avocado, to taste blindly three avocados from three different origins… And it is the Peruvian, precisely, who comes out on top (1.90 euro /room). Followed by a more local Sicilian specimen (2.19 euros). Mexican avocado (1.50 euros), on the other hand, is much less appreciated by our specialist.
"I reduced my consumption"
Could she stop serving this healthy but not very ecological fruit in her establishment? “Frankly, for a vegetarian restaurant, I find it important to have avocado, but I still reduced my consumption, which has gone from 150 to 50 avocados since the opening in 2018 by week. "
To continue enjoying Avocado Toast, here are our three tips: first, do like Allison and reduce consumption; then restrict it to the least distant sources (Corsica, Sicily, Spain, Morocco, Israel); Finally, buy only between October and April, when it is the season in these regions.