From the iconic "2.55" quilted bags, to the melange tweed suits, from jewelry to legendary perfumes, there is all the essence of Madamoiselle Coco's style in the exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel. Il Manifesto della moda", which runs until March 14, 2021 at the Palais Galliera, the city of fashion museum in Paris, whose renovations have recently finished.
An exhibition that is the prelude to the 'physical' fashion show of the pret a porter collection for spring / summer 2021 which will be held tomorrow 6 October at the Grand Palais in Paris, and which will also be broadcast live in digital.
On the occasion of its reopening, after important expansion works, which saw in particular the creation of a new series of rooms called the "Galeries Gabrielle Chanel", the Palais Galliera presents the first retrospective dedicated to the work of the visionary couturier, who imagined a new feminine allure, revolutionizing the world of fashion, accessories, perfumes, beauty and high jewelery.
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The manifesto of Chanel's fashion revolution - Lifestyle is on display in Paris
The exhibition, organized by the Palais Galliera with the support of Chanel, and curated by Miren Arzalluz, director of the museum, Véronique Belloir and Marie-Laure Gutton, highlights the birth and evolution of Gabrielle Chanel's style, the characteristics of her work, the emergence of its codes and its contribution to the history of fashion.
With garments taken from the Chanel Archive, from the collections of the Palais Galliera and from various international museums (pieces from the Galliera, Chanel heritage, Victoria & Albert museum in London, De young museum in San Francisco, the Museo de la moda in Santiago of Chile, the Momu in Antwerp, and also private collections) the exhibition displays over 350 pieces, made in the period between 1910 and 1971, shedding new light on the lasting influence of the designer who forever transformed women's style.
"Gabrielle Chanel created a synthesis to encode her dresses. It offered the exact opposite of 1950s fashion," explains Miren Arzalluz of the designer's return to couture in 1954, which thus reaffirmed her originally established fashion manifesto. in the first decade of the century.
"It was a new elegance based on comfort, freedom and naturalness. It was a sort of manifesto - adds Véronique Belloir - and of her work - that exists beyond fashion".
The exhibition itinerary is divided into rooms with its emblematic creations, from the fluid dresses of the Thirties and the more shaped dresses of the Fifties, presented in the new "Galeries Gabrielle Chanel" created thanks to the patronage of the maison, costume jewelery and the 2.55 bag. quilted.
All items of clothing and accessories that, according to Marie-Laure Gutton, "were in line with the idea of meeting the needs of women", embodying the eternal modernity of the style created by the extraordinary Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971).
In those years in which Paul Poiret dominated women's fashion, Gabrielle Chanel, also known as Coco, moved, as early as 1912, between Deauville, Biarritz and Paris, revolutionizing the world of haute couture and leaving her fashion manifesto.
Scanned over decades, the first part of the exhibition evokes the beginnings of the great designer with a few symbolic pieces, including the famous sailor's top in jersey (1916) and invites you to follow the evolution of the Chanel style, from little black dresses to sporty models of the glittering twenties, up to the sophisticated garments of the thirties.
A room, on the other hand, is dedicated to perfume N ° 5, born in 1921. Along the way, which is divided into ten chapters, you can see ten photographic portraits of Coco which testify to how much she has embodied her brand.
The second part of the exhibition is dedicated to the themes of the Chanel maison and invites you to decipher its codes, the woven tweed dress, the two-tone décolleté, the 2.55 with the typical quilted, the colors black and beige, but also white, red and gold , without forgetting the accessories and jewelry
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