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They have already smashed the cursed corner of Tel Aviv. What is a perfect meat sandwich for them? - Walla! Food

2020-10-25T06:50:57.418Z


An elegant chef's restaurant and a new, relaxed bar have leveraged the Corona into a small, bastard shared menu. The result is probably the best dirty sandwich in town


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They have already smashed the cursed corner of Tel Aviv. What is a perfect meat sandwich for them?

An elegant chef's restaurant and a new, relaxed bar have leveraged the Corona into a small, bastard shared menu.

The result is probably the best dirty sandwich in town

Tags

  • Malgo and Malbar

  • pizza

  • Tel Aviv Jaffa

  • Shpondra

  • chicken

  • Deliveries

Yaniv Granot

Sunday, October 25, 2020, 8:30 p.m.

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In the video: The restaurateurs' protest in front of the Prime Minister's House in Jerusalem (Photo: Roni Kanfo)

"Every day we try to understand what's going on in the world, and which direction our axis is supposed to turn. I'm so tired of using the word 'axis'" ... "As a restaurant owner, you lose anyway - you lose if you stay closed, and you lose if You decided to open "..." Every week a lot of restaurants give up. It makes me wonder if this is something inevitable, and if it is worth fighting for at all "..." Running a restaurant was very difficult before all this. Now it is almost impossible "



Like any culinary content maker worthy of the name, Bon Appetite food magazine has been looking for itself in recent months.

He turned on his axis (again that word) and turned more and more to recipes and home-cooked food "Menachem", invested more in video and digital, and waited for everything to pass.

More than half a year later, when "everything" did not pass (in fact, nothing passed), the axis was again called to the job, and the magazine returned to the people who do it.

The result is a spectacular project, featuring 123 long testimonies about Corona and food, but not just Corona and not just food.

In fact, these are almost 86,000 compressed words, heroic plots from Washington and Berlin, Vermont and Seoul, all of which need one axis (!) One plot - survival.



The Miriam-Webster Dictionary needed far fewer words to explain what exactly the survival instinct is.

Nine, to be exact (ability to know what to do to stay alive), but it's not a matter of quantities or formulations, numbers or scope.

These are people at war, with diverse weapons and refusal to surrender.

For a large part of them the road will leave no choice, the rest will survive to tell.

The mythical pita of Tel Aviv is back

(And we almost managed to beat the crazy turn)

To the full article

A new member of the clique.

The pizza of "Malgo and Melber Jones" (Photo: Bar Cohen)

Almost every restaurant on this scale would have succumbed and waited for the storm to pass.

"Malgo and Malbar" undressed and went out to fight

The people behind "Malgo and Malbar" in Tel Aviv are already learning battles.

They coped impressively with a stuttering opening year, and even defeated one of the cursed corners in Tel Aviv, the one that pours Rothschild Boulevard into Habima Square in the crudest urban way imaginable.

"It was discouraging, even very much," owner Ben Ring recalled in a conversation with Reut Rabna of Calcalist about two years ago, "it was not that there were clowns here before us."

Seriously, try to find something from the restaurant's opening days about seven years ago that is not talking about the "curse" and get back to me.



Ring and chef Motti Titman struggled and struggled, insisted and continued, finally established themselves in the same corner as one of the city's most esteemed and respected restaurants, and expanded from it to the "Jones" bar in the Lewinsky Market area - a more relaxed but no less delicious spur.

2020 saw it all, and reacted as only she knows.

Almost every restaurant on this scale would have succumbed and waited for the storm to pass.

"Malgo and Malbar" undressed and went out to fight.

The result is a delivery menu and a takeaway shared by her and "Jones" that sent us to rethink sandwiches.



This family bread offers Malgo and Malabar elegance and typical food bars made by her nightly nephew.

The business is limited - a few deli products, a few starters, three or four sandwiches, one main course (it also comes and goes) and a few pizzas here and there - but in a section of good reduction.

So good that right now they stand at 100% accuracy from the field.



We had

Arisa pepperoni pizza

(NIS 66), a

shredded chicken sandwich

(Korean barbecue sauce, lemon aioli, white cabbage salad, arugula, pickled onions and pickles in a "Rusty" ciabatta, NIS 58) and

a shepondra sandwich

(long-cooked meat, aioli Arisa, caramelized onions, garlic confit, coriander and celery pickle in a brioche bun, NIS 58) and we passed the time in Israel's popular delivery quiz: how big will the sandwich be and why didn't we order more?

What will be the gap between the image and reality and what the hell is Gibbet Rusty?

Why does everyone think they know how to make pizza and where will the Volvo-Four-Money equation land?

Lots of questions, and usually a few exclamation marks.

Not this time.

Includes one small, boiling box

Coordinating expectations with the "best restaurant in the country"

To the full article

Wet, dirty, perfect.

The sandwiches of "Malgo and Melber Jones" (Photos: Bar Cohen)

stamp.

boom.

Wow.

It's not just a childish-milanial wording that skimps on descriptions, but an accurate quote of the sounds we allowed ourselves to utter between bites.

Shall we start with the bottom line?

Each portion is stamped.

boom.

Wow.

It's not just a childish-milanial wording that skimps on descriptions, but an accurate quote of the sounds we allowed ourselves to utter between bites.

All of Tel Aviv is now congested with couriers delivering pizzas and sandwiches, maybe everyone should make Malgo-Melber-Jones their starting point.



We opened with pizza.

A QR code on the cardboard provided the soundtrack, and inside it waited a soft, embracing carbohydrate circle with slight burn marks on the edges, and melted cheese in the center.

The pepperoni slices were generously incorporated, and the intense color and flavor of the tomato sauce knew how to sing in harmony with the harissa.

There are quite a few great pizzas in this city right now, but they need to make some room for the new company in the coke.



The sandwiches continued to speak the same language, and it was not Hebrew, but a kind of foreign and unfamiliar dialect of generosity and taste.

The shpondra construction was built on a brown and soft brioche base, cut from above like the familiar milk rolls that took over the market about two years ago, and loaded with large hills of soft and juicy meat threads.

The toppings weren’t felt enough, and didn’t really manage to “break” the experience as requested, but when the experience simulates sneaking into a stove and wiping a bubbling stew with fresh bread, nothing really needs to be broken, and everything is intact.



The chicken sandwich looked at all these compliments and stepped up.

Present chunks, dripping sauce, with lots of crunch required and ciabatta absorbing everything from the inside and not getting too rough on the outside.

It was wet, it was dirty, it was everything we needed, and a little more than that.

Seriously, we could not finish.

Schnitzel, patties, harima

Lunch without Corona at the neighborhood cafe

To the full article

"Anyone who has not received a call from the bank every Friday morning does not understand how much this matter has been burned," Ring told Calcalist at the time about changing the direction of the restaurant about a year after it opened. "This imposed financial responsibility on me. "I would go up to the roof to fix it, and I don't understand anything about electricity. It's simply because there was no money to bring someone else."



Time has passed, the electricity problems have probably been solved, but the reality is always shortening, and requires non-stop preoccupation with wiring, survival.

It is difficult at the moment to estimate how "Malgo and Malbar" and "Jones" will come out of the obstacle race of the virus.

It is very easy to hope that they will never succumb to any curse.

Malgo and Melber Jones.

Reservations at Walt, questions at 054-9099607

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Source: walla

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