How Mexican is the 'nacho' that has been incorporated into the RAE dictionary?

A few days ago, the

added more than 2,500 new terms.

The RAE has not only incorporated concepts related to the pandemic, but also adds or modifies voices related to the world of gastronomy, such as

.

Associated with Mexican food, it is defined as a “triangular piece of corn tortilla, typical of Mexican cuisine, which, when fried, is eaten as an aperitif, generally accompanied by thick sauces”.

Cheesy Wonton Nachos pic.twitter.com/5HLo9Lbk7I

- Tasty (@tasty) December 2, 2020

For Rodrigo Llanes, chef and culinary historian expert in Mexican cuisine, this is an incorrect definition.

"They (the RAE) give a definition of a fried tortilla chip and the thick sauces to which they refer could be chilaquiles," he tells

by phone.

And it doesn't come down to definition.

"The ingredients that the nachos use are more in line with

food

," he says.

According to the Larousse Cooking Dictionary, chilaquiles are a dish that uses corn tortillas cut, fried and cooked in sauce.

“In general, tortillas are cut into triangles and fried;

the sauce is made separately, in which the tortillas are dipped so that they are soaked, then they are served on the plate and decorated with sliced ​​onion, cheese and cream, ”says Larousse.

Both recipes seem similar, but let's do a little history about the

, their nomenclature and the reason why they have been included in the dictionary of the RAE.

As we have told in EL PAÍS, Ignacio Anaya García was a cook settled in Piedras Negras (Coahuila), a city on the border with the United States.

The most popular story tells that one day he improvised a dish with the last thing he had left in his kitchen: some pieces of corn tortilla and cheese that he put in the oven and decorated with some slices of jalapeño pepper.

All of this happened in 1943, on the brink of World War II.

"Nowadays they are made with chips manufactured in an industrial way and with a sauce that is served hot and that is similar to cheese," says Llanes.

It's no surprise that nachos are served in restaurants, bars, and other venues while sporting events are broadcast.

"The fact that all the ingredients they use come in a can or bag means it can be in a

chain,

" says the chef.

How Mexican are they?

Although it is a very popular creation in several States of Mexico, it is more of a snack (or sandwich) associated with Mexican-American food, despite the fact that its creation is linked to a Mexican culinary creator.

Additionally, several recipes include a meat stew.

"

con carne is a common recipe in the southern United States," says Llanes.

While chilaquiles are usually cooked with tomatoes (or tomatoes), onions and serrano or red chili peppers, and are accompanied with cream and cheese, they are more of a dish eaten at breakfast or sometimes as a main course, unlike nachos. "It is a typical snack, more than a dish and is usually accompanied by beer", concludes chef Llanes on the new definition of the RAE.

Someone - I did not want - chilaquiles: pic.twitter.com/AuCS8TRPyO

- Mariana Orozco USA CUBREMOCAS (@MarianaOE) November 26, 2020

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