The masculine and the feminine, comfort and elegance, grace and protection: the collection for next winter by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons speaks of change and desire, which proposes some of the themes seen on the catwalk dedicated to men , like the one-piece knitted suit that emphasizes the physicality we lack and invites the freedom of movement we yearn for.
"Little by little, a few more desires are mounted" says Miuccia Prada online, while Raf Simons explains that "the desire is not just to dance or go out, but to free the body and share with others".
A sharing that also and above all passes through the union of masculine and feminine: the over-shaped coats resemble his, but are studded with giant sequins, just as the maxi bombers and parkas recall those of the men's collection, but refined and worn with the new boots with a shaped and geometric wedge, in the art decò or nouveau patterns that are the same as the one-piece knitted suits that replace bare skin.
A physical freedom that becomes freedom of use, with the desire - explains Miuccia Prada - "to introduce elegance into reality and vice versa".
So what is ornamental can become functional and what is pragmatic can become decorative: if tailored coats are covered with bright colors or sequins, evening dresses become practical jumpsuits or blend with jacquard knit details, while the shape straight and simple the 'wrap' becomes the starting point for new outerwear, in re-nylon and jacquard, faux fur and sequins, to be kept close to the body in a gesture that combines protection and grace and is the emblem of the 'Pradaness' because - as said by Marc Jacobs, who participated in a post-show talk with the star architect Rem Koolhaas and others - the essence of the brand "is Ms. Prada, every gesture of hers".
"In this collection - she explains - we have played with the idea of classic, subverting it, transmuting it. The bomber-wrap, a" wrap "with the sleeves of a bomber jacket, is the perfect evocation. By classic, I mean that it has passed the history test - the term "classic" means that a garment has something inherently necessary or intelligent, something meaningful. I like the word "classic" for that very reason. It indicates something that is really relevant to people, for life. Often, simply through new materials, a different cut or context, something obvious, eternal, normal can be transformed with a simple gesture. This - he concludes - is what I really love about fashion ".
"Transmutation, transfiguration - Simons echoes her - We are intrigued by the fundamental and essential idea of change.
Transmutation is the word we return to, understood as something that slowly transforms, moves and changes, intensifies.
And it's fascinating because it's such a vast idea that it can be applied to so many things.
There are many more contrasts in this collection - retro and futuristic, decorated and minimal, sporty and elegant - by combining them and making them hybrid, we have created something that looks new. "
