A mirror of the times, fashion reflects the contradictions of the moment we live: if the present is still dark, look to the future by imagining a technicolor tomorrow where you can go back to moving and meeting.
On the penultimate day of Milano Moda Donna's digital fashion shows, this vision of an upside-down world dominates.
At MM6 Maison Margiela the garments are turned upside down, upside down, on the contrary: a blouse becomes a top with satin straps and visible stitching, the smock wears shearling, the Norwegian sweater resembles tattered upholstery, while the trench shopping bag and dangling earrings in faux pearl deliberately a little tacky, as we have all been lately, half in overalls half made up to go to the supermarket.
To convey "a melancholy romanticism towards what will no longer be, but also a feeling of rebellion and energy, of the desire to react and do, towards a future free from all the constraints of the moment", the young Gilberto Calzolari with his collection for next winter, which showed at the Franco Parenti theater, "collided sobriety and eccentricity, rigor and outbursts of madness, a bit like our lives are in this period".
Thus the elegance of retro prints is revisited with an eccentric style and the austerity of natural colors alternates with explosions of color as in the 'Pantone' dress that closes the show.
And it is a technicolor dream that of another young creative, Giuliano Calzavara, who with his GCDS imagines a journey into the unconscious starring Maisie Williams, Arya from Game of Thrones', between mini-dresses with sequins and chains and severe suits.
A woman and her double, a theme that also returns in the Drome video, which alternates black and white, sensuality and rigor.
Full color returns to Pucci, which brings the sun even in winter with prints that swarm on quilted bomber jackets, blousons and short shorts, tunics and double coats, jumpsuits, pleated dresses and chiffon trapeze dresses decorated with crystals and feathers.
If Pucci thinks of a winter in Saint Tropez, Katie Grand for Fila recalls that "Everyone has practically spent the last year in much more practical clothes. We really had nowhere to go, so the focus on fashion has shifted enormously towards something more practical and more lasting ".
And it is a celebration of the icons of the brand, through the eyes of the famous stylist, the collection that celebrates the 110 years of the sports brand.
They think about life in the open air and dream of going back to dancing and having fun with the young Dsquared2 dresses, including long checked shirts worn with bubble skirts, sheepskin and colorful camouflage down jackets, while Philipp Plein, in a video starring Snoop Dog, presents sneaker with all-over crystals and pumps with wool-shaped heel.