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No need to invent the wheel of the gyrus: Tel Aviv's neglected Greece has finally been upgraded
This food has been subjected to many years of Israeli abuse.
Now is the time to sit back and have some fun
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Yasu Tel Aviv
Avi Bitton
Greek food
Avi Efrati
Thursday, 29 April 2021, 06:00 Updated: 14:38
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Eat simple and good.
Yasu (Photo: Ilan Moore)
In recent years, the Greek Yasu has operated on Hayarkon Street, facing the sea in Tel Aviv.
It was professionally led during these years by chef Aviv Moshe, most of the time in parallel with his function as a chef for Mesa and Quattro.
Unlike Massa, a pretentious chef restaurant, and Quattro, which tried to be an invested contemporary Italian, the pretensions in Iasu were more modest.
She contented herself with being popular in a contemporary setting and in an attractive location.
But the pretentious modesty in the tenure of that term went a little too far.
Generic food also needs to know how to stand.
One could say all sorts of things about Mesa and Quattro in the years that Moshe had signed the kitchen in them - some of which have been clearly stated in this section in the past - but they were invested.
Yasu felt like a gig.
Another place that a group of restaurateurs rented to enjoy the huge appeal of the location and produce maximum money with little effort.
We swallowed, licked, exploded.
And that's before the meat
A mandatory food station was born in Israel
To the full article
Sympathetic and satisfying.
Yasu (Photo: Afik Gabay)
With the end of the corona break in which they will be tired of activities in another format. Leading it professionally now is Avi Bitton, who has won much credit from writing these lines at Adora Restaurant in the past, and has in recent years signed on to the restaurant-popular coffee bar and Solika deli.
To make food, Bitton certainly knows. In Adora, for example, he played well at the time between French techniques, bistro-oriented, and popular local elements, and served happy and delicious food.
As a Greek generic restaurant, no one expects Miyasu to invent the culinary wheel. In places like this you want to eat simple and good, and have fun. A very sympathetic family meal in Iasu, last Friday night, left us unsatisfied.
While this was not a perfect display, even within the Greek-generic genre, which does not strive for creativity or superiority.
Not all food was uniform in level, and here and there there seemed to be something to focus on, fax and improve.
But the total is now worthy. Not only do you see a successful professional navigating the ship; you clearly feel the effort not to fall into banality, to give something more, to do good and right.
Overall worthy.
Yasu (Photo: Afik Gabay)
At the entrance to Liasu, a "green sign" is seriously examined.
Cities to regulations, and given that one diner has not yet been vaccinated due to his age, we booked a table outside.
It was located close to the front desk and we were able to see during the evening the Yasu men checking carefully.
Among other things, we watched a family with children order a table in the interior space and be sent home for honor.
Still, Corona.
Pleasant on the small terrace of Yasu, especially if you make sure to look at the sea and not the parking lot below.
The internal restaurant space is medium in size, with a long and dominant bar.
It was indeed a late evening hour, and yet Greek music was not of the dominant-dominant variety, both in the type of soundtrack and in volume.
In other words, the line between a restaurant that people come to eat at and also manage to talk to, a noisy Mediterranean club was unequivocal and clear.
The boundary line is clear.
Yasu (Photo: Afik Gabay)
The amount of poor Greek salads, which embarrass the original in every parameter that each of the readers has eaten in his life in Israel, is astronomical.
not here
The menu is divided into categories - maza, vegetables, fish and meats, each of which includes smaller and smaller portions; First, intermediate and main. We started with hiking bread (32 shekels), maza eggplant (28), zucchini balls (32), pava bobes (32), dolma (32) and Greek salad (56).
The bread, a pita-like round pastry, came with scordelia and tomato salsa with hyssop, was saturated with olive oil and well made. The eggplant maze portion contained eggplant meat in which the flavors of the fire were clearly evident. It had herbs, purple onion, grated yoghurt stone and olive oil. This simple-simple was really good. Really delicious eggplant meat, precise roasting, lots of excellent oil and a feeling of a good hand.
This is exactly how the Greek salad felt. The amount of poor Greek salads, which embarrass the source in every parameter, that each of the readers of this list has eaten in his life in a restaurant or cafe in Israel, is astronomical. Yasu's Greek salad, unlike the cafe genre, did not have a lot of vegetables but each one was from Millionaire. Even the olive oil, which had already done so in the eggplant maze, was here; And a plump and very good feta, alongside kalamata and hyssop cream.
The zucchini balls, with feta and herbs on pepper cream, were "okay". They did not show any extraordinary injustice, but neither did simple excellence of the kind seen in the dishes above. The dolma - a pair of stuffed vine leaves stuffed with one cabbage, with a pomegranate concentrate and sheep yogurt - were also "okay", even if better than their predecessors.
Bitton made the pub dish with a twist.
The classic Greek spread is based on dried yellow peas and functions on a chickpea standard.
Bitton built the puree with boob beans and it was very good.
The typical sweetness of boobs that were cooked correctly and turned into a puree state is very noticeable in them.
Above the puree were lots of elements - kalamata olives, green onions, red onions and hot red peppers.
All in an exaggerated mass, which took over the delicate basic flavors.
It is not clear whether this is an over-generosity in the construction of the dish concept, an attempt to give the diner more and more, or an inaccurate massacre.
Either way, it was unnecessary.
On the other hand, after we had disposed of most of this luggage we ate delicious chickpeas.
From a wide opening, and successful.
Yasu (Photo: Afik Gabay)
98 shekels on 3 chicken skewers is a ridiculous and especially puzzling pricing given that Yasu is a place where they are busy providing fair value for money
The wide opening end was, therefore, overall successful. We ordered the following dishes in the hope that this will also be the case - lamb gyros (68), Pilas Ontario (68), chicken soufflés (98) and sea fish carpaccio (68), for the family pastry, which also belongs to the strange people genre, the seven Almost completely after the first course and not really needing a main.
The gyros dish came on a small Greek pita, with roasted vegetables, herbs and tahini-tahini on the side. This large dish was not, but there was a touch in it, with lamb seasoned not too predatory in a mixture known here as shawarma mixture, it was absolutely delicious.
The Pilas Ontario dish - a filo dough stuffed with a shredded meat stew, with a herb salad and tahini - belonged to a category that the wicked would call "meat borax". In terms of value for money it completely supplied the goods. Pricing was stale, but it had quite a lot of meat, baked in filo, and lots of olive oil. Unlike lamb gyrus, in terms of flavors it no longer behaved as a dish for the whole family. Its flavors were heavy and powerful, with the herb salad balancing with fresh sourness. The writer of these lines definitely enjoys it. For the rest of the table she felt a little hard cold.
The fish carpaccio - sea bar based, with cherry tomatoes, pistachios, scordelia, pepper spread and hot red pepper - was reasonable and nothing more. Not the pinnacle of the genre in terms of the mixture of flavors created in it nor the quality of the fish.
The chicken souffle dish was the fidget of the meal.
The three non-large chicken skewers were really bland, a result of a particularly anemic marinade / seasoning.
The equatorial salad and the good tzatziki, which came alongside toasted pita as a side dish, only partially covered the chicken anemia.
Not so, though: 98 shekels on 3 chicken skewers is a ridiculous and mostly puzzling pricing given that Yasu is a place since they are busy providing fair value for money.
We shared a salty chocolate crumble dessert (48) with four fudge triangles, chocolate mousse and vanilla cream that was very mediocre, and failed to align with most of the food.
He felt like he came from a world of completely different content of talent and investment.
I do not intend to generalize from one dessert to the entire confectionery division in Iasu, but if it does indicate the rule then a clear improvement is required there.
Now just do not neglect her.
Yasu (Photo: Afik Gabay)
Despite the inaccuracies and certain dives, Yasu has proven to be a place that puts up worthy food of its kind overall.
We sampled quite a few dishes.
Several of them were really good and the overall base threshold was clearly positive.
In a country where this kind of food goes through quite horrific abuse for decades, and if one remembers what went on here in the previous incarnation of the place, it is no small matter.
It should be assumed that after a few weeks of rubbing it will look better.
Now one has to hope that Bitton, a talented man with a penchant for professional hyperactivity, will be able to split his attention between the places he has signed and continue to invest in Yassu love and attention as he knows how.
The yasu of this incarnation begins as a perfectly fine place.
You must not once again become that neglected child.
Yasu Restaurant (Photo: Ilan Moore)
"Yasu", Hayarkon 105, Tel Aviv.
03-6031719
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