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Worth the corks: one of the best steaks in Israel

The road is full of nerves, the street is neglected and the menu is a bit hesitant, but everything fades away when the meat arrives at the table

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• Moo and moo

• Streets

• meat

• steak

Avi Efrati

Thursday, 27 May 2021, 06:00 Updated: 06:42

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An oasis of my streets.

Mo and Mo Restaurant (Photo: Elad Baranga)

Forever, apparently, the gourmet Israeli carnivore will have to look for a really good meat restaurant by candlelight, at least in Israel. This is our destiny.

Until recently we said that the Hudson has only one. Soon it will not be accurate. Assuming that even in the new Hudson, which is scheduled to open on Lincoln Street in Tel Aviv, chef Matan Avrahams will be able to set the familiar standards from the restaurant-mother in Ramat Hachayal, it will soon become "the Hudson has only two."

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little after Hudson and still with honors, there are very few restaurants that can hardly be counted on the fingers of one hand. So, and this is a situation that hasn’t really changed in years, a really decent meat restaurant is a rare affair right here, and most of the time, when you go to eat steak, you come back disappointed.

Rehovot has not been known to this day as a bubbling culinary center.

It is a sleepy city, somewhat ultra-Orthodox in recent years, completely peripheral.

When the streets want to eat out, they travel quite a bit to Rishon Lezion or Tel Aviv.

In this great nothingness, Mo and Mo have been operating for many years, on the standard of an oasis;

An exception that does not in any way attest to the rule.

Connected there to the right meat growers, know how to age and know how to handle chunks on their way to the plate.

We gritted our teeth about three weeks ago - even before the echoes of Operation The Guardian of the Walls - in the unbearable traffic jams of the evening on the way to the streets to check in and check out if the quality of the meat there still justifies the reputation.

Same service, same taste, same speed

It is also possible to eat like this in the mall

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Minimalist menu.

Mo and Mo Restaurant:

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Herzl Street in the streets is reminiscent of Allenby in Tel Aviv, only in the days leading up to the wave of renovations of recent years, i.e .: large, bustling, old and neglected. It's just that Allenby, even before he started to change his face in favor of boutique hotels and other handsome buildings, was always bubbling with life in the evening. Herzl in the streets. Well, a little less.

But Moo and Moo is an institution, not just from the streets, and when we got there there were three spaces - two interiors that had been renovated beyond recognition since we last visited there, and the large courtyard - almost completely full.

We leafed through the menu, which turned out to be completely minimalist: a few basic basics of carpaccio, chopped liver, three salads, a green vegetable dish and that's it. The meat menu is also limited: Wagio chunks in the special section, entrecote and sirloin on the bone, two fillet options, a hamburger and a schnitzel. Very little for a place that focuses solely on meat. We hoped that this little bit represents a choice solely in what is good and a waiver of the rest, and we ordered a beef fillet carpaccio (NIS 56) and a tomato salad (48) as the first.

We swallowed, licked, exploded.

And that's before the meat

A mandatory food station was born in Israel

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Happy opening set.

Mo and Mo Restaurant:

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A post shared by moovmoo (@moovmoomeat)

Anyone who does not understand the difference between a super-tomato and its regular sister, or between a reasonable and excellent olive oil, will not understand what the fuss is about

The opening set was most gratifying. Not too much meat populated the carpaccio dish but its qualities were very worthy. Raw meat at its best has a nuance of what sweetness. Even in well-deserved meat restaurants in the country, it usually tends to be swallowed up in puddles of balsamic vinegar that almost completely eliminate it. Here, the minimal toppings - some leaves, tomato seeds, a thin radish - added freshness and let the meat quality be the main thing. We poured some of the particularly good olive oil that came on the side and licked our fingers.

The tomato salad did the same. Lots of especially good cherry tomatoes in two colors, with great sheep cheese, salt in the right doses and lots of the good olive oil from the previous paragraph. Home food? Ostensibly yes, but the qualities of all the raw materials so far have revealed a pretty insane pedantry. Anyone who does not understand the difference between a super-tomato and its regular sister, or between a reasonable and excellent olive oil, will not understand what the fuss is about. Those who are, will especially appreciate and enjoy.

We also got, on the house, a large portion of hot green vegetables.

It had cauliflower, purple cabbage, green beans, broccoli and spinach and the same principle was repeated in it: really good vegetables that were treated with the right minimalist simplicity.

High genre.

Mo and Mo Restaurant:

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A post shared by moovmoo (@moovmoomeat)

It was one of the best pieces that can be obtained at a meat restaurant in Israel, which is definitely worth traveling for even those who do not live in the sector.

Today's special chunks, based on Wagyu, were large and designed for two. True to the mission, we wanted to sample more and went for a bone-in entrecote (NIS 46 per 100 grams, NIS 212 for a steak of about 460 grams) and a veal fillet skewer (128 per 200 grams).

I stuck a fork in the plate of my dining companion, who prefers a refined fillet to the work involved in a portion of meat on a bone. The reddish fillet chunks turned out to be very good, soft and tender, a kind of baby food for carnivores. I'm far from being a fillet type but I enjoyed it. The cream-pepper sauce that came with the skewer was quite unnecessary for me, since with good meat you don't need anything but a little salt. If you still insist, you can close on some more butter.

The entrecote portion, in medium-rare mode as requested, evoked those unequivocal growls and grunts of pleasure, those reserved for the higher genre of the meat genre. It had everything one would expect from an entrecote, including great marinade, fat dissected into the meat, truly impressive depth of flavors, complexity and plenty of nuances. Sharp and smooth: this was one of the best pieces that can be obtained at a meat restaurant in Israel, which is definitely worth traveling for even those who do not live in the Rehovot-Ness Ziona-Rishon LeZion

sector. quality beautifully and was treated with much wisdom and sensitivity, the fries were standard completely and lettuce tired and the sauce is not very successful. was so good until now, our minds that love.

dessert, vanilla ice cream and homemade sauce toffee (38), looks like a retro in every way But the surprise was good: the texture of the ice cream was relatively thick and tended to gelato, there was no over-sweetness and the toffee was not huge.

This meal cost NIS 482 before service.

The redemption fee for the wine we brought from home did not obligate us.

It was great and as already written on this list, in an Israeli steakhouse it is not very trivial.

Meat freaks and you lack places to go down on animal protein at its best?

Here is a place that deserves to be added to your very limited list.

Mo and Mo Restaurant (Photo: Elad Baranga)

Mo and Mo, Herzl 177, Rehovot, more details and reservations here

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